Fenix TK21 turbo downshift tests

CmeCU

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Inquiring minds want to know - mine does anyway:
Do Fenix TK21's automatically 'downshift' from turbo to a lower output. If so, when does it occur, why does it occur, and does my TK21 exhibit the behavior?

Test equipment:
1. My TK21 (which I had selected for minimal green tint from the local flashlight store.)
2. Two (2) Trustfire TR18650 2500 mAh rechargeable batteries.
3. Radioshack DMM.

Initial test:
Fully charged both batteries. One indicated ~4.21 VDC, and the other indicated ~4.18 VDC. (Note that this is open circuit voltage, not voltage under load.)

I used the first battery to run the TK21 continuously on turbo until I observed a downshift. This occurred after about 75 minutes. After it occurred the first time, I checked the open circuit voltage on the battery, and it was about 3.80 VDC. I put that partially depleted battery back into the TK21, and continued to run it on turbo, which resulted in progressively less runtime before downshifting, initially less than a minute, and soon occurring in less than 5 seconds. After the final time, the open circuit battery voltage was about 3.77 VDC. (I also noted that the tint appeared to become slightly greener with run time. It doesn't seem like that would occur with a tightly regulated driver circuit…)

I did the same test with the other fully charged battery, which had the slightly lower initial open circuit voltage. Although I didn't time this test as carefully, the time until downshift was less than the 75 minutes of the other battery. After the first downshift, it also exhibited the progressively shorter runtimes before downshifting, with a similar final open circuit battery voltage.

I fully charged both batteries again, and used the lower voltage one to run the TK21 on turbo until the light first downshifted.

I then headed to the local flashlight store with my TK21, the two batteries (one fully charged to 4.21 VDC and one depleted to an open circuit voltage of about 3.80 VDC), and the Radioshack DMM.

Using a similar test procedure, I went through about 8 different TK21s at the store. Since I wanted a minimal green tint TK21, that was an initial selection criteria, but the store proprietor made a good suggestion that perhaps the TK21's with a whiter tint were being driven slightly harder, which could mean that they might downshift sooner than a greener tint.

To summarize what I determined after an hour or so of testing:
1. TK21's do downshift from turbo.
2. They downshift at varying battery voltages, and ALL of the lights I tested downshifted at a lower voltage than did my original TK21, which would allow a longer run time.
3. There seems to be no relationship between the downshift voltage of green tinted vs. white tinted lights - i.e., some white tinted lights downshifted at a lower voltage than did some green tints.

Since I wanted the longest turbo runtime possible, I then selected the whitest tinted light with the lowest downshift voltage that I had tested, and traded in my original TK 21 for it.


To confirm the above, I repeated my initial tests with the new TK21:
Fully charged both batteries. Again, one indicated ~4.21 VDC open circuit voltage, and the other indicated ~4.18 VDC.

This time, the first of the batteries ran the TK21 on turbo until the downshift occurred at about 94 minutes, 19 minutes longer than the original TK21. The open circuit voltage was then about 3.68 VDC, which was over .10 VDC lower than the downshift voltage of the original TK21. I extended the test with that partially depleted battery on turbo until it downshifted in just a few seconds (which occurred more quickly than on the original TK21), resulting in an open circuit battery voltage of ~3.66 VDC, again more than .10 VDC lower than with the original TK21.

With the other fully charged battery (with the lower initial open circuit voltage), the time until downshift was 83 minutes, at least 8 minutes longer than the original TK21 (recall than I didn't time the initial test on this battery as carefully.) The extended test downshift battery voltages were similar to the above, as would be expected.


My interpretation of this is that the TK21 turbo downshift appears to be battery voltage dependent, not time or temperature dependent. However, the actual voltage at which the downshift occurs varies in different TK21s. I don't know how Fenix sets this voltage, but because different batteries have slightly different output voltages, and different TK21's apparently have different downshift voltage settings, a particular battery and TK21 combination will result in variable runtimes before the downshift occurs. (Note that intermittent usage, instead of continuous usage like in my test, should result somewhat in longer overall runtimes than I measured, because the battery voltage should recover somewhat with 'rest periods.')

This would also explain why 2 CR123s don't exhibit the same behavior - their depleted voltage would be expected to stay above the TK21 downshift voltage for longer than a single 18650.
 

regulation

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very detailed test and description~ thanks ! and i get much clear about the downshift of the th21 now.
 

mvyrmnd

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The difference may also be in your batteries. Remember that the downshifting is happening while the light is on - therefore the voltage reading that it's using to trigger the downshift is the voltage of the battery under load.

If one of two otherwise identical cells has higher internal resistance than the other, then the downshift would happen at different times, as the voltage of the cell with the higher internal resistance will sag more quickly than the other.

but the store proprietor made a good suggestion that perhaps the TK21's with a whiter tint were being driven slightly harder, which could mean that they might downshift sooner than a greener tint.
That may well be true as well. This would also exacerbate the voltage sag of "bad" cells.
 

subwoofer

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Interesting test, but now 8 people are going to buy used TK21s as though they are new. A bit naughty of the dealer.

When I read this thread title I thought you were referring to the automatic down shift on the basis of overheating protection like some do after 15 minutes or less. However your tests suggest to me that the down shift is only occurring when the battery is unable to supply enough power for Turbo to run, after which it goes to the next available mode. The results sound good to me.
 

Kingfisher

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Hope you never visit my store........................................if I had one.
 

subwoofer

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Hope you never visit my store........................................if I had one.

Digressing from the thread a little, I assume you are making reference to my comment about a dealer selling used/demo items as new. Would you really be happy to buy products (as brand new) that someone had taken out of the box and carried out long run time tests on on full output? If so, good luck to you, but I think everyone else would want to know they are buying used, or demo goods. Car dealers quite rightly can't sell a demo car as new, so why should any other dealer?


Back to the thread topic, and has it been established if the downshift is purely due to the battery being so depleted it can't provide the require power for Turbo or if there is a thermal element?
 

Kingfisher

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Digressing from the thread a little, I assume you are making reference to my comment about a dealer selling used/demo items as new. Would you really be happy to buy products (as brand new) that someone had taken out of the box and carried out long run time tests on on full output? If so, good luck to you, but I think everyone else would want to know they are buying used, or demo goods. Car dealers quite rightly can't sell a demo car as new, so why should any other dealer?



My comments were to the OP CmeCU. I totally agree with you. Sorry for your confusion. If I knew the dealer in question, I would stay well clear!
 
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subwoofer

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My comments were to the OP CmeCU. I totally agree with you. Sorry for your confusion. If I knew the dealer in question, I would stay well clear!

Ah, good, we agree :) and your previous post makes much more sense.

I should be taking delivery of a TK21 U2 soon for testing purposes so hopefully I will be able to add my findings to this thread.
 

LED_Thrift

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Thanks for this very informative test CmeCU, and welcome to CPF!
I've ordered a Pila charger and cells for my TK21, and can't wait to run it from rechargeables.

For everyone who would not want to buy a light that has been "used" for ten minutes, there is someone who would appreciate that the dealer tested the light to make sure it worked right. It's not like you took it caving. I think you did someone a favor. I also think you are lucky to have a brick and mortar store that sells such good lights nearby.
 

CmeCU

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So when you go car shopping, do you also believe that 10 other people haven't already taken a 15 minute test drive in the 'new' car that you're test driving? And some of them rejected buying it due to performance, color, or a myriad of other reasons, but then someone else did buy that new car.

The primary intended point of the post was to indicate that Fenix apparently has some variation in the voltage setpoint for the downshift, and it significantly affects runtime on turbo, to the extent that slightly lower voltage 18650's may only run on turbo for a few minutes.

And that, as everyone already knows, buying an XLM LED in any light, sight unseen, currently puts you into a tint lottery in a big way.
 

Kingfisher

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Where do these "10 minutes" and "15 minutes" come from?

Bad dealer who sells lights that have been screwed on turbo mode as new - let us all know who it is so we can avoid them please.
 

turboBB

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So when you go car shopping, do you also believe that 10 other people haven't already taken a 15 minute test drive in the 'new' car that you're test driving? And some of them rejected buying it due to performance, color, or a myriad of other reasons, but then someone else did buy that new car.

Sorry to take the thread OT but since we're on this topic... that's kind of an apples to oranges comparo. Lights don't have mileage indicators, cars do. This is why when I purchase a vehicle as "new", the mileage must be in single digits and I always state that up front and have never had a problem with that. It's going to get crazy if you want to go down the "Well how do you know the car dealer didn't roll back the miles..." dialogue so I suggest we stay away from that. ^_^

To your point though, you're absolutely right in that how does one ever know if they are truly getting a brand new product? That'll be to the discretion of the dealer on whether they want to be honest or not and disclose whether it has been pre-tested by someone other than the factory. Some buyers care, some don't but the dealer shouldn't make that assumption for them. If I am buying something sold as "New", I expect it to be just that, if not then I expect the courtesy of being told what I'm buying and then the onus will be on me whether I proceed or not.

Back on topic, my runtime testing for 2 x CR123's (dotted line) shows that the light does downshift as well (after 49min) and in two-stages:

5851871164_e81b24ecbb_b.jpg

5851871234_ed106206e7_b.jpg

Axis: X = Time in Min and Y = Relative Output

This was with Powerizer's that came with the light.

Cheers,
Tim
 
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wrf

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[...]my runtime testing for 2 x CR123's (dotted line) shows that the light does downshift as well (after 49min) and in two-stages[...]

Do you believe the combined 2 x CR123 voltage sagged to the ~3.7 V level for downshifting or do you think the driver has a higher voltage downshift point when using 2 x CR123?
 

turboBB

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Unfortunately I don't know since I wasn't testing for that, however, I'll reconduct these and note down the V at time downshift w/future runs in an upcoming review.

Cheers,
Tim
 
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