Idea for new SureFire product

NewsFlash

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I have grown to like the MNO2 lamp assembly in my E2e. It is so bright that more than once I have taken the bezel off just to make sure I didn't have an MNO3 in there!

I am on my first set of batteries with it, so I don't know what the beam will be like after about 2-1/2 hours.

I think a good product for SureFire would be a low lumen regulated incandescent bezel similar to the KL1, say about 20 lumens. Hopefully the runtime would be at least 2 hours on 2x123's.

Anybody else have any feedback on the MNO2 (or MNO1 for that matter)? Anyone else for a low lumen regulated incandescent bezel?

Al?

pk?

/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif
 

RevDavid

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I think I could be in for something like that... The long slow die off of light in an incandescant often makes me change batteries while there is still enough light to be useful... but maybe not pleasing in color. This would make a useful addition to the line, in my opinion.

Great idea! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/thumbsup.gif

David <><
 

radellaf

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Would be nice, for example a half-power bulb for the Aviator A2.

I can't believe the price of their replacement lamps! People say Mag will be sad when they can't make money off bulbs like Gilette does off razor blades but heck, I think it's going to be SureFire.
 

CM

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Newsflash, why the preference for the incan over a LED? A LED seems to have most of the advantages in the 20 Lumen output category, like longer runtime, long LED life etc. I'm just curious since I'm trying to find reasons but they're not obvious to me.
 

NewsFlash

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CM,

Apparently, my eyes are particularly sensitive to the blue light coming out of the "white" LEDs such as in the KL1. My eyes feel different after using one. I have no problems whatsoever when using incandescents.
 

RevDavid

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Different spectra for different things...
I forgot about the A2 Radellaf. Thanks for pointing that out. I was looking at one of those for a while, then sort of set it aside, when I did not like the light pattern from the LED lights. On the other hand, the light pattern might be okay at the distances I would normally use it at.
I might have to take a second look.

David <><
 

radellaf

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The LED pattern seemed fine on the one I saw at a local handgun range. It was a Red LED version, though. Dunno if I'd prefer that or not.

I wasn't too comfortable in that shop as I really know nothing about guns, but when I saw the SureFire Authorized Dealer sign in the window I had to have a look, as I've only ever seen an L1 in person. The E2 is smaller than I thought! I would like one...or better, the A2, since I think it has a nicer look to it. That, and with their bulb prices the soft-start feature would be nice. I really can't afford one, but I sure do want one.

Shame they had no L4s for me to see.

Best price I can find for the A2 is on Meridian Tactical for $135. It plus bulb and 12pk batts. is $185.85. Flashlights unlimited is $2 cheaper, but I've never heard of them before.
 

oldgrandpajack

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Hope they use their current line of lamp assemblies if digital incandescent flashlights are next.

One lamp assembly that I would like to see is a 9 volt equivalent of the MN02 for the 3 cell lights (Maybe 45-50 lumens?). Call it a P90L?

I have no electrical knowledge. Would it be possible to make a digitally regulated flashlight that would be able to sense which bulb is installed and automatically adjust it's output for that bulb? If that were possible, then you could use all the current lamp assemblies in a new line of digitally regulated bodies.
oldgrandpajack
 

RevDavid

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I would think it possible if it did a low current test for resistance before lighting up, but how you do that with instant-on and keep the cost lower than a Surefire with a built in ohm meter? Who knows?

David <><
 

radellaf

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Well, you could always use a switch. But, bulbs are voltage-regulation friendly, so unless you wanted to be able to use a P90 and P60 in the same light, I don't see that there'd be a problem.
 

NewsFlash

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oldgrandpajack,

I wondered the same thing!

Actually, I originally thought of maybe a "pill" that could be screwed between the bezel and body of an E2e. It could then run maybe an MNO2 or even an MNO1.

I missed out on buying a couple of MNO1's on B/S/T. I would have put 1 cell and a dummy to run one, obviously. I may buy an MNO1 yet to see how I like the output.

I do think it would be great if the current MNOx(s) could be used in a regulated bezel or light.
 

CM

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NewsFlash,

I understand about the blue color. Have you seen other LED's with warmer tone color like an R2 or Q2? These may be more "eye friendly" than the purple LED's Surefire uses in their KL1's. Most of the mods I do for others involve changing out the LED because many find the blue/purple color highly objectionable. If you're adventurous, you can do this LED swap yourself.

CM
 

Double_A

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I read and re-read the initial post.

I guess I'm missing something here. What is wrong with using the lower output lamps from the E2o, if you don't need the standard E2e lamp?

Someone clue me in here?

GregR
 

CM

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Wonder how much current the LOLA takes. One could take a BB and configure it for say 6V (voltage, not current regulation) and then drive an incandescent. Not as efficient as PWM but you do get voltage regulation.

CM
 

NewsFlash

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Double A,

My experience with the MNO2 is limited, just started. I am guessing that the lamp dims down in a similar fashion to the MNO3 as the batteries pull down. I would also guess that it wouldn't be as noticeable a drop, since the lumens are lower to start with (25 vs. 60).

My point of the new SureFire product idea was to have a regulated incandescent with "rock steady" output and similar lumens to the KL1. I am shying away from high output LEDs due to the blue light. My eyes seem to be particularly sensitive to this blue light, like out of a KL1.

Maybe, someone who uses the MNO2 or the MNO1 in an E1/E1e on a regular basis may tell me it is something not really needed. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cool.gif
 

NewsFlash

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CM,

You know, that is something that usually is hard for me to remember. What I am talking about is that an electrical device (lamp, motor, etc.) "knows" what kind of power it needs to see (get).

I take it that as long as you are able to regulate the voltage the lamp will sit there and shine and be happy! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cool.gif
 

RevDavid

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I kind of think that if I go to the A2, I probably would get the red leds.
That was my original thought when I was looking at it, and now I think I need to consider this again.
Thanks for all the thoughts... got my gears turning.

David <><
 

ac68886

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Just as something for those out there with the knowhow and skills... what about a 123 "blank" that is instead a regulator along the lines of the dat2zip sandwiches that could be used in a 2x123 body? i.e. 1x123, 1x"blank" running the MN01 LA. Or am I talking crazy?
 

radellaf

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Generally the regulator needs to be hooked to both the + and - of the supply, so not sure how that would work unless the blank went on top and had "feelers" on the side to pick up - from the inside walls. That could be done.

BTW, just got me first SureFire! An A2 with white LEDs. Good ol' mom sent me a check for Rosh Hashana. What excellent timing! Got it from a local dealer who said he'd do his best to get me a red LED ring, so we'll see.
 
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