SureFire Lego question?

I was swapping parts between two single-cell SF lights (E1L and E1B) and was confused as to why the output of the E1B head appears to drop when attached to the E1L body??? I thought that the battery tubes were just that, empty, with all of the electronics in the head and just the switch in the tail.

At first, I thought it might have been an issue with the contacts in the tailswitch, but swapping the switches seems to make no difference.

:huh2:

I should be a straight swap, I've seen it on here many times. Are you sure everything is tightened down good and making proper contact?

Dumb question: Have you tried swapping batteries?

That is quite strange behavior.

Yeah, I am really stumped ?!?

I cleaned inside the tube, cleaned the threads, tightened everything down. It is totally reproducible, despite swapped batteries, exchanged tailcaps, etc. The only other thing is that if I really cinch things down, the light cuts out entirely (?).

If the E1B head is rated at 110 lumen (max), I would guesstimate that with this E1L body the output drops to maybe 30-40 lumens.

I wondered if there could be an electrical short there somehow, but the tube is totally clean and empty.

Can someone confirm that they have actually done this exact lego without this problem? There must be lots of you with an E1L and E1B, if you swap the middle piece (the body), you see no change in output, right?

I'm bummed, because I like the grippy knurling on the E1L body and the higher output of the E1B ....

I have an e1e with an e1b head lego an have no problems at all works perfect. I also like the knurled e1e body better. I woudl check the ano on the edge of the body where the head rests maybe it needs to be sanded off a little. sounds like a resistance/ poor ground/connection problem

Vinniec5 said:

I have an e1e with an e1b head lego an have no problems at all works perfect. I also like the knurled e1e body better. I woudl check the ano on the edge of the body where the head rests maybe it needs to be sanded off a little. sounds like a resistance/ poor ground/connection problem

Click to expand...

Great idea! I'll work on this tomorrow. The ano on the threads is right up to the lip. The flat part on top is bare metal though. I don't know how far down it needs to be to make adequate contact, but this might be a relatively easy fix.

The E1L have a different tail-cap???

angelofwar said:

The E1L have a different tail-cap???

Click to expand...

Yeah, knurled vs grooved.

OK, pretty sure Vinniec5 nailed it, since it is working a bit better after taking down some of the ano on the threads. That improved the output somewhat, and removed the intermittant flickers with tightening.

Next question: How to get rid of the rest of the ano on the threads? A couple of passes of 80 grit and then 320 grit, and I am already losing metal on the threads, yet can't reach deep into the recessed part. Umm, steel wool?

Curious if anyone else has seen this type of ano "overspray"? Would SureFire customer service be willing/able to help me out? Note that I bought various parts second-hand (in the MarketPlace), and don't even have a complete E1L to send them. I would be happy to pay to have this fixed, BTW.

Thanks for everyone's help here, I really appreciate it.