D Cell Maglite tube diameter

Done a search and can not find the D Cell Maglite tube diameter which i need to have a friend make me a copper heatsink.

It took me 0.23 seconds to find this thread

http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?224686-Maglite-barrel-diameter-3D-vs-2D-4D-5D-6D

I guess you need the I.D. for heatsinks? A while back I saved this post from wquiles talking about a driver. He measured several Mag-D bodies I.D. to come up with the "smallest" I.D. measurement of 1.3481" (34.242mm). I think that's changed in recent Mag builds. I measured the O.D. of an H22A heatsink as 34.26mm in keeping with Will's size estimate. In fact I had 3*H22A heatsinks, all the same. The I.D. of the MagLite I wanted to put it in was only 34.19mm. Nothing a little sandpaper couldn't fix.

As Will mentioned in the post I linked to, there are variations between bodies. I'm suggesting since you have a friend making the heatsink for you, that you just give him the light so he can custom fit it. The thinner the layer of Arctic Alumina compound between heatsink and battery tube the better.

Al Combs said:

I guess you need the I.D. for heatsinks? A while back I saved this post from wquiles talking about a driver. He measured several Mag-D bodies I.D. to come up with the "smallest" I.D. measurement of 1.3481" (34.242mm). I think that's changed in recent Mag builds. I measured the O.D. of an H22A heatsink as 34.26mm in keeping with Will's size estimate. In fact I had 3*H22A heatsinks, all the same. The I.D. of the MagLite I wanted to put it in was only 34.19mm. Nothing a little sandpaper couldn't fix.

As Will mentioned in the post I linked to, there are variations between bodies. I'm suggesting since you have a friend making the heatsink for you, that you just give him the light so he can custom fit it. The thinner the layer of Arctic Alumina compound between heatsink and battery tube the better.

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Thanks for the reply and i did read the older maglite bodies was slightly larger on the ID than the newer type but it is the newer type i will be using.
I don't own a set of calipers so had no means of testing the ID but i have have had quite a few ( 6) H22A heatsinks which i have used before and i found all depending of the colour of the maglite they fitted slightly different some nice and snug some sloppy and needed to put a tiny punch mark at each side of the heatsink which when pushed home was a nice tight fit.


TX101 ...You ever thought of applying to the guinness book of records 0.23 seconds must be a record and maybe because i put maglite tube diameter or alike .

ljw2k said:

Thanks for the reply and i did read the older maglite bodies was slightly larger on the ID than the newer type but it is the newer type i will be using.

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Actually that's not what I meant. The older MagLite is more than a little bit bigger. I have a pre-2001 Mag-D and its battery tube I.D. is 37.02mm. But if you want it made to a number instead of to fit, 34.26mm would be it.

Thanks and not interested in Older lights and there dimension as all the ones i modify are brand new ones 2011 after.

Like Al Combes said, give the machinist the Mag body so he can make a heatsink that fits perfectly

The 0.23 seconds is how long Google took to get results on "Mag diameter"

BTW care to share some details of what your planning with these copper heatsinks ?

tx101 said:

Like Al Combes said, give the machinist the Mag body so he can make a heatsink that fits perfectly

The 0.23 seconds is how long Google took to get results on "Mag diameter"

BTW care to share some details of what your planning with these copper heatsinks ?

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Tx i was only joking mate with what i said i know it only took 0.23 secs for the google result just a bit of banter mate.

Its A copper 2D i want the copper heatsink for and would hate him to mark scratch the tube hence i was asking for the ID , and having made quite a few qith the H2AA Aluminium Ones now with a single XML i wanted to make something different but unsure as too what yet ....watch this space i suppose.

I saw your Mag-1D with an XM-L on a flattop H22A over in B,S,T the other week. If you're moving up to copper, all that's left is the SST-90.

I would like the SST-90 but finding it hard to find the WN bin at the moment and the price is putting me off a little also buy Yes you are right in guessing what i wanted next

ljw2k said:

I would like the SST-90 but finding it hard to find the WN bin at the moment and the price is putting me off a little also

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Just so you know, Luminus apparently revised their binning codes recently. The new top bin SST-90 is WP3, with a range of 1,130-1,200 lumens @ 3.15 amps.

Luminus must have been going through something earlier this year. The authorized distributors in the United States are Avnet and Mouser. For a while the SST-90 wasn't available from Avnet. When it did become available again, it was almost $100. Now it's back at the below $40 range. But they are still using the old bins. I guess it depends on what vendor you buy them from.:shrug:

Hi would you know a supplier who could supply me with one of the new BINS as Avnet want around $50 YES $50 dollars to ship to UK that's IF they got the new Bins in stock.

Also excuse my ignorance but these sst-90's need to be on a Board the same as the X-ML i take it with Anode/Cathode terminals and if i used a 9A Driver should i be looking at near 3000 lms?

Yes I had heard before Avnet charges that kind of shipping rate to Europe. I wasn't suggesting you try to order from them. Do a mouse-over on the Luminus 'About Us' tab on my previous link and click on 'Where to Buy'. I don't know about European dealers as far as what bins they are selling. You'll have to send them an email and ask.

The SST-90 is just the bare emitter. When mounted on a 20mm star, the model number you'll want to order is SSR-90. That does mean you're going to need to cut away more than just the cam tube on the stock Mag reflector to get the LED in the right position. It's only an appearance issue. A jagged hole doesn't effect performance because the center of the reflector isn't used anyway. Do you still have any MagLites modified with LED's? If you stand a few meters away and look into the reflector, with the light turned off, the part of the reflector that isn't yellow doesn't contribute anything to the beam. Slightly more than 1 inch in the center of the standard Mag incan reflector is wasted.

A top bin SST-90 at 9 amps is about 3,000 lumens. Of course only about 80% of that will make it out the front. With a stock MagLite incan reflector, the SST-90 has a big hotspot. In terms of throw the MagLED (rebel) reflector is much better.

Would it be possible to mount the bare emitter without the 20mm star to a heatsink like one of the H22A ones

Yes it's possible. Have your copper heat sink guy mill down both sides of the H22A flat-top pedestal about 2mm deep so there remains a 5.1mm wide strip in the center for the LED's thermal vias. Or better yet, ask him to make a new heat sink from copper. Here is a thread by kz1000s1 showing what I mean. Notice how the strip is turned about 45° to an imaginary line going from one wire hole to the other. That way the wires will hang off the diagonal of the SST-90 directly over the holes in the heatsink. Don't forget to solder on the wires BEFORE you Arctic Alumina epoxy the LED to the heatsink.

The diagonal of a 10mm x 11mm LED is 14.87mm. It will actually fit through the hole in the center of a MagLite incan reflector if everything is perfectly aligned. To be safe, screw the reflector housing all the way down on the battery tube first. Then put the reflector back into the housing. No chance of damaging the LED or the thermal epoxy joint that way. If you decide to use a Der Wichtel Low SST-90 kit for the Rebel reflector, you have no choice but to cut into the visible surface of the reflector.

Thanks Al for explaining and the links.