My two new Thrunites that arrived today..Scorpion V2 and Neutron 1A Cheers and Jeers:

Got a Scorpoin V2 and Neutron 1A, both made by Thrunite and ordered from Battery Junction.
Cheers: Thus far, I'm very impressed with both. They are very bright and the Scorpion V2 is everything that I've liked about the Gladius with far more brightness and far less cost.
The Neutron puts out an incredible amount of light on one AW 14500. Soon, it will be bored, by precisionworks, to accept an AW 17500 for longer runtime. He also promised to make me an AA sleeve and single CR123 spacer. Thanks, Barry! Pics will be posted by one of us once completed.
Jeers: Not sure if I have an aberration but my Scorpion V2 actually has a dark spot in the center of its beam. Not sure if the focus can be adjusted, within the body, or not. Anyone have ideas?
I want a forward-clicky option on my Neutron. As it sits, it's the only reverse-clicky light that I own and would call it a near-perfect EDC with a forward-clicky, especially a McClicky...
If Thrunite would offer parts, the Neutron could be a very nice LEGO setup. One could order the body, head and tailcap to get what they want. A 1A, 2A or 1C (4kHz PWM) head, all the same between these models, could be paired with a 2C (2C heads have a terrible 150Hz PWM) body for a 17670-only setup, etc... This could be a near-ultimate EDC... Offering forward or reverse clicky tailcaps could allow purchasers to get the configuration that they're most used-to.
Overall: The Scorpion V2 is the next, logical, evolution of the Gladius. It's too bad that Insight/Blackhawk did not continue to develop the Gladius and keep increasing the output to keep up.
The Neutron series is a bad-*** EDC-class light that could benefit from more options from Thrunite and their dealers. A tactical version that has security/LE professional-specific modes would be nice.
In Summary: These lights are awesome! The Scorpion V2 is, simply, the best primary light for law enforcement or security, yet made, that I've tried.
The Neutron is a super-impressive EDC or LE/Security backup light. When it comes to concealed carry, I would rank the Thrunite 1A right up there with the best production EDC lights, like the Surefire E1B.

Thanks for Reading,
Lee

I've been in fire camp for almost a week and have been using the Scorpion V2 as my EDC. It is, truly, optimized for law enforcement work but makes a very capable camp utility light as well, although big for EDC in the city.

Thanks,
Lee

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Hey Lee. Like you, I like my Thrunite Neutron a lot. Mine is the 1C, and like you is the only reverse clicky light that I own. I replaced the reverse clicky with a forward one and notice two negative effects right away. First, the light lost its tail standing ability. Second, with 6 different output levels....the light is a magnificent pita to operate with a forward clicky. If it was just a two level light, that would be a much different story.....but 6 levels of output is just unmanageable with a forward clicky. Needless to say, I changed it back to the reverse clicky and am still very happy with this great little light. Beautiful build and finish, beautiful beam pattern and tint, and what a low moon level. I would recommend this easy to carry and operate light to anybody looking for a nice little EDC. I just can't recommend the forward clicky change.

I'm used to multi-mode lights with forward-clicky, which I greatly prefer, especially if used in a defensive situation. The ability to "flash and move" is much easier. I'm hoping that a McClicky will work in the Neutron and I might be able to retain the tail-standing capability, though it's not a priority.
For the same reasons, forward-clicky on the Scorpion's first two modes would be an improvement, imho.

i just got the scorpion v2 also and i was blown away by the knurling its the best ive seen so far even better than my brother's surefire. i wonder how the nitecore knurling is i heard its very aggressive.

If I remember correctly, Selfbuilt was unable to get a 17670 to fit in the 2C, and had to use a 14670.
So that 2C would also need boring out, just a bit.

badkarmaiii said:

The ability to "flash and move" is much easier.

Click to expand...

That is exactly one of the features on a multi-mode light like this that a forward clicky destroys. When you soft press the clicky, it cycles through the levels of output. There is no way to use the light for signaling or flashing without changing the output. Don't get me wrong. I am a huge fan of forward clicky's or I would not have tried putting one in this light when I got it. From my personal experience and resulting disappointment it just did not work and therefore it is my opinion that the reverse clicky is what is needed for this type of light......and the reason that S.O.S and strobe are functions already built in.

MichaelW said:

If I remember correctly, Selfbuilt was unable to get a 17670 to fit in the 2C, and had to use a 14670.
So that 2C would also need boring out, just a bit.

Click to expand...

That would be another thing that Thrunite could fix...

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bondr006 said:

That is exactly one of the features on a multi-mode light like this that a forward clicky destroys. When you soft press the clicky, it cycles through the levels of output.

Click to expand...

I must misunderstand how it works, then.
Was under the impression that it would work like my Surefires with forward-clickies and multi-mode drop-ins where the off-time would have to be very short to trigger a mode change. In the case of the Neutron's turbo/strobe mode group, either one would be ok with me in a defensive situation. The general mode group is for other uses with lower stakes which is why I've carried mine only in the "tactical" mode.
My real preference is using a separate mechanism to change modes, such as the Scorpion V2 UI.
Sorry for the confusion.

Thanks,
Lee

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badkarmaiii said:

I must misunderstand how it works, then.
Was under the impression that it would work like my Surefires with forward-clickies and multi-mode drop-ins where the off-time would have to be very short to trigger a mode change. In the case of the Neutron's turbo/strobe mode group, either one would be ok with me in a defensive situation. The general mode group is for other uses with lower stakes which is why I've carried mine only in the "tactical" mode.
My real preference is using a separate mechanism to change modes, such as the Scorpion V2 UI.
Sorry for the confusion.

Thanks,
Lee

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Click to expand...

Forward clickies can do that too. Manufacturers tend to make it where forward clickies do not change modes though, keeping it in a "tactical" interface where the mode is always reliable and the same unless you operate another part of the light.

it will be bored to accept an AW 17500 for longer runtime. (He also promised to make me an AA sleeve and single CR123 spacer.) Pics will be posted by one of us once completed.

Click to expand...

Your light came in on Friday but I wasn't able to start on it until this morning. The first order of business was to determine the maximum OD of a 17500 cell ... all the web info indicated that the OD can be as large as 17.5mm (.689"). The smallest diameter of the 1A tube is at the O-ring locations, measuring .7175" to .7180"



Figure that the tube inside diameter needs to be at least .690", and subtract .690" from .717", leaving .027" ... divide that by the two walls & get a wall thickness of .0135". That might sound like too little, but I see many aftermarket makers go as low .0125" without any issues.

Because the tube is so short (in a relative sense) my 5C collet chuck was used to grip the rear area of the tube. The 1A tube (at least your 1A tube) is very well made, and almost perfect in concentricity. The dial test indicator showed only .0002" swing as the tube was clocked around.



The spindle speed was set to 1000 rpm & the boring bar was adjusted for a light cut, just .020" radial depth of cut, with a very fine forward feed. The photo below was taken while the light was spinning, but flash froze the action. If you look closely you can see that the boring bar has advanced just a short way inside the tube.



The inside of the tube finished out nicely:



A micrometer reading shows the inside diameter at .690". If you aren't familiar with reading a mic, take the .015" shown & add to the .675" at the last division, for a total of .690".



Sleeve & spacer to follow

I have a neutron 2c I dont notice any pwm. The only time I have seen it is on videos, every one I have seen. what do you see when you are looking with the naked eye to notice it? I really would like to upgrad to a tactical such as the new scorpion v2. Is the beam as floody as the neutron?

I take it that boring to fit an 18650 is a non-starter. (if only the body tube did not have those flats...)
+ the ludicrously low PWM rate of the 2C model.

17mm is the absolute maximum for this light. An 18mm cell needs at least .734", although my standard bore is .738" - even most of the fat cells work at .738".
For this light, a 17mm cell is on the bleeding edge.

precisionworks said:

17mm is the absolute maximum for this light. An 18mm cell needs at least .734", although my standard bore is .738" - even most of the fat cells work at .738".
For this light, a 17mm cell is on the bleeding edge.

Click to expand...

David, are you listening???

Thanks,
Lee

One would still have a pretty good selection at 18.5mm
http://lygte-info.dk/info/Batteries18650-2011 UK.html
http://www.lygte-info.dk/info/Battery 18650.html

But yeah, it is a pretty worthwhile upgrade from 14500 to 17500, 750 to 1100mAh

One would still have a pretty good selection at 18.5mm

Click to expand...

18650 is the top dog in LiIon ... but not for a Neutron. Look again in post #11, at the digital caliper, which reads 0.7175" at the O-ring groove. Figure that the absolute minimum bore for an 18650 is 0.734". Add another .013" + .013" for a tube diameter of .760". The Neutron tube is about 1mm too small in diameter. 17500 is as big as the Neutron 1A will accept.

promised to make me ... a single CR123 spacer.

Click to expand...

Just ordered a 36" stick of Ultra Conductive Copper Alloy 101 (aka: OHFC copper, or OFE copper). Purity is 99.99%, conductivity is 101% IACS, the highest among all coppers. When it arrives Thursday, it will be press fit into a Delrin sleeve ... photos to follow. Pricey stuff at $2 per inch when ordered in a 36" stick, or $3 per inch for a 12" stick :mecry:

precisionworks said:

18650 is the top dog in LiIon ... but not for a Neutron. Look again in post #11, at the digital caliper, which reads 0.7175" at the O-ring groove. Figure that the absolute minimum bore for an 18650 is 0.734". Add another .013" + .013" for a tube diameter of .760". The Neutron tube is about 1mm too small in diameter. 17500 is as big as the Neutron 1A will accept.

Just ordered a 36" stick of Ultra Conductive Copper Alloy 101 (aka: OHFC copper, or OFE copper). Purity is 99.99%, conductivity is 101% IACS, the highest among all coppers. When it arrives Thursday, it will be press fit into a Delrin sleeve ... photos to follow. Pricey stuff at $2 per inch when ordered in a 36" stick, or $3 per inch for a 12" stick :mecry:

Click to expand...

Barry,
That's pricey stuff but should make for a great conductor in a delrin battery spacer. It will be very handy to be able to use any AA-sized, CR123, 17500, 17340 or RCR123 battery that I can get a hold of. In fire camp, commercial-grade AAs are everywhere if I run my 17500 dry before I can recharge it.

Thanks,
Lee

That's pricey stuff

Click to expand...

Not a problem, you're paying for it :nana:

Spent the entire day in the shop on breakdown work. When I picked this chain hoist up from the owner & asked when he needed it back, his reply was "yesterday". Hung it from the overhead air hoist and went to work. Four hours later & it's good as new.



Delivered that 172# beast & headed back to the shop for real work - lights, that is. Started with a stick of 1.5" Delrin:



Turned it down to just under the bore diameter. Wanted to hit .6880" (2 thou clearance) but got pretty close at .6879":



Slipped the light tube over the spacer shaft to check for fit. The spacer has to be wiggled on, but once in the tube it slides smoothly:



Drilled the hole for the copper post with a 3/16" drill (.1875") and verified with the mic that the hole was on size. Drills often drill larger than marked size, but this one got a fresh grind right before use:



Chucked up the C101 and turned it down to the diameter of the drilled hole +.004", for a tight press fit. C101 is a bear to work, not at all like aluminum. Machinability rating is 20, compared to a rating of 100 for brass alloy 360:





Cut off the spacer & pressed the post into the spacer with the top projecting more than the bottom:





Slipped a new SF CR123 into the tube. SF bores their lights to .692", so the .690" bore on the Neutron is just a fraction tighter than the fit of a CR123 in any SF light.



Pushed the spacer in after the battery & the pressure of the spring at the switch is more than enough to let the spacer move up & down:



Lee & I had discussed removing the ano from the threads so the tube could be run forward or backwards, but it works both ways just as is (here shown backwards):



And shown in the "normal" config:



All modes work perfectly either way. My shop built sphere shows 158.33 lumens with a fresh CR123 :thumbsup:

Barry,
You, sir, are an artiste!
I see that you finally showed the 1" GITD finger ring that I installed. I have them on all of my lights and they rock! My buddy calls them "condom rings" but he's a noob to the high performance flashlight world...
The saliva is flowing over getting my 17500/AA/CR123/RCR123, etc. Thrunite Neutron back... I have a McClicky on the way and hope that I can figure out the installation...

Thanks,
Lee