Ideal Backcountry LED Torch

BMart

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Alright, I've been hunting around CPF for a week now before braving a poke at the intimidating collection of flashaholic minds assembled here. The wealth of information is overwhelming, and much appreciated! I've consistently had 8 CPF tabs open in Chrome. Anyways, I need some help narrowing down a backcountry light source.

Here's what I'm going for in the torch:

Beam: Both, but an emphasis on flood
Price: <$100
Source: LED
Tint: Cool/white
OTF: Impartial to low/>80 lum med/~200 lum high
Runtime: All considerations acceptable, I'm solar equipped
UI: Impartial, I'm adaptable
Power cell: 1xRCR123. Also, it must be fully compatible with turbo/high modes. I want to be able to use high from prime to protection without risk of overdriving or blowing up. No point having a torch with li-ions if I can't use all of its capabilities (Sorry Quark Mini :shakehead).
Weight: The lighter the better, but at this cell size all considerations are acceptable
Main use: Night hiking, backpacking, camping, and Fenix Headlamp use on medium length stays (2-3 nights)

I have been looking at the Ra Clicky, LF3 XT, Sunwayman V10R, and Zebras, but don't limit your recommendations to that list. Honestly, I can't find any reason why any of those wouldn't work, so highlighting limitations of those torches would help as well. If you feel that a different cell type or different Li-ion chemistry would be more suitable for the specified genre, defend why.

Thanks in advance to the responders, and pleased to officially meet you CPF.
 

crizyal

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I have a Ra Clicky and it is a great light for sure. I also have a Peak Logan QTC. I recently took this into the back country along with my Clicky and my SureFire Saint Minimus. The light that was used the most by far was the Logan. It runs on 1 cr123 or 1 rcr123. It is completely variable from less than 1 lumen to 200+ lumens if using a rechargeable battery. It has an optic that gives a very nice floody beam. It has very long runtime when turned down (over 250 hours). I have the stainless version which has some heft. There is an aluminum hard anodized version that would be much lighter. I added a clip to mine from OverReady and it is truly a perfect EDC. Light doesn't have much to go wrong and it Peak has a reputation of being very robust. Light with clip under $100. Definitely worth a look. I am sure that the Clicky wouldn't disappoint either though unless you pick one up used you are over your budget.

:welcome:
 
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brembo

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The V10R isn't exactly frugal with power, it's runtimes are kinda short compared to Zebralight.

Considered an 18650 headlamp? Spark makes some spiffy 300+lumen models, cool white tint. 150 lm for 8 hours on a single 18650. I think a Spark is next on my list of purchases.
 

BMart

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Thanks for the feedback. I had not even heard of the Logan, nor the Spark headlamps. I supposed I didn't consider a dedicated headlamp option because
*I wanted a modular light system that wouldn't have to be worn to be used comfortably
*Dedicated headlamps tend to be high price low output IME.

However, I looked into Spark and those numbers are definitely outstanding. That will definitely be an inquiry in the future. I'm assuming that's 360 lumens at the emitter though? Still, that battery life is excellent for the output.

I'll take another look at the V10R power usage, thanks for the tip.

So it seems there are a lot of great options that will work. I guess I get lost in the enormity of the selection and choices. Granted this is a bit more subjective, but is there anything I should avoid in a torch for this application? Any manufacturers to avoid? Any big backpackers on here with advice from experience?

Thanks again.
 

yowzer

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My usual backpacking setup is a Zebralight H501w (Or H51w if I'm planning on doing night hiking) for a headlamp and a Quark Mini AA nw, or ZL SC50w as a handheld. I know these aren't CR123 like you're looking for, but Zebralight has options for that battery.

My ideal backpacking light system: Two light sources, both small and fairly light weight and using the same battery, plus one spare battery. One floody for around camp, one with more throw for moving around at night. Headlamp's nice but not required; an angle light like the Fenix MC11 would work almost as well as a task light.
 

thaugen

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I love backpacking with my ThruNite 1C Neutral. Well made, light weight and powerful light with amazing color rendition.

I also have a Zebralight H51fw as my headlamp.
 

GeoBruin

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The Zebralight H31 looks like it's right up your alley. The run time is a bit diminished on Li Ion but if you've got a couple cells and the ability to charge them on solar, you probably don't mind that. The fact that it will run on primaries at full brightness (and for longer) is probably just a plus for you. Also, consider that this light functions just as well as a handheld flashlight with the included pocket clip. Sounds like a winner to me.

The QTC Logan mentioned above is probably another great recommendation. Potted electronics, infinite variability, optional beam pattern and extreme durability.

For my money, get the ZL first. When you amass the funds, spring for the Logan. I think you'll find that the headlamp form factor makes the ZL more desirable in most outdoor/backpackign situations, but there's no better backup/quick grab light than the Logan.

Edit If you do end up with the H31, check out some of the Light Diffusion Film options available in the marketplace. Some DC-Fix can really turn the Zebras into fantastic hicking/campground lights with enough diffuse light to light up the whole trail and everything in front of you without the hot spot blinding you. Also, if you are going to make your Zebra floody, you should consider the medium or narrow optic for your Logan for those situations when you need to reach out in front of you a ways.
 
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BMart

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The more ZL is mentioned the more I am considering it. I originally jumped on the Fenix Headband system because of how modular it is, but then I started seeing more and more reports of the plastic cracking under normal use. :sick2: What a turn off. The ZL does seem right up my alley. Honestly, I never considered them before because the 90 degree angling seems unnatural and goofy to me. But I'm starting to see the advantages now, not to mention the high respect, reviews, and popularity for ZLs.

I like the idea of the H501, but I'm worried that it won't be good for night hiking. Sometimes I start on a trail at 1am, so it will need to be a good light for making miles at night. Would adding a diffuser/film to a H31 spot+spill diminish it's usable light? Why not just get the H31 floody instead of fussing with diffusing the light? Anyone know the runtime of an H31 using a black AW Li-Ion 16340? I'm thinking it will be around half of the runtime compared to primaries, which would put it at 120 lumens for ~1hr.:ironic: Are Zebra's lumens measured OTF or emitter?
 

dirtech

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Ill second the logan qtc. Bombproof and efficient with an insane low for long runtimes. Only wish I could get one in non cool white without waiting an eon. But as snobby about tint as I am I'm keeping this one for awhile at least. Oh, the narrow optic is still quite floody.
 

BMart

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Swan, I literally just ran across that one in a different thread and it seems like another great choice. This list is getting cumbersome. I'm going to need a way of narrowing these down. I think I'll make a Google Doc and I'll share it here when it is finished.

Keep the suggestions coming...
 

swan

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Bmart just to confuse you further,i forgot the jetbeam bc10, very powerful,simple high low,very tough,less than 4".
 

freq18hz

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Just get a regular quark 123. The moonlight mode has amazing runtimes, and is plenty bright to navigate in real darkness. The highest mode will be more than enough to suit your needs.

Besides that light, my favorite lights for outdoor use are the E1b backup, T1A Titan, and the Saint Minimus. Those are significantly out of your price range though.

-Freq
 

Toaster

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Feb 21, 2003
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I like the idea of the H501, but I'm worried that it won't be good for night hiking. Sometimes I start on a trail at 1am, so it will need to be a good light for making miles at night. Would adding a diffuser/film to a H31 spot+spill diminish it's usable light? Why not just get the H31 floody instead of fussing with diffusing the light? Anyone know the runtime of an H31 using a black AW Li-Ion 16340? I'm thinking it will be around half of the runtime compared to primaries, which would put it at 120 lumens for ~1hr.:ironic: Are Zebra's lumens measured OTF or emitter?


H501 is all flood and great for tasks around the campsite, not so great for hiking.
H51/H31 is spot-spill and great for hiking, not so great for around the campsite.
H51F/H31F is more diffused spot-spill and ok at both but at the same time not really great at either.

The best compromise imho is get the H31/H51 and use it as is for hiking. Then around the campsite place a piece of tape or film over the bezel for a H501 like beam profile. The light lost by using a diffuser around campsite is not really an issue as you'll be using one of the lower settings anyhow.

I recommend you go with the H51 over the H31 if using rechargeables. The output on both will be practically the same but runtime on the H51 with Eneloops will be longer. Not to mention the cost and safety benefits of nimh versus li-on.
 

BMart

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swan- The BC10 seemed like a great fit at first, but according to selfbuilt's review it requires IMRs which I would like to avoid, as I don't want another cell/charger system. I added the BC10 to the Google Doc though for future reference.

freq- I'm really interested in getting a torch that is RCR123 compatible for this application. The Mini is a great light, and I'm sure I'll get one someday, but it can't be run on high with a 16340 so it's out. I'll check out those pricier options you mentioned.

Toaster- Based on my research, li-ion (LiCo) is a very acceptable rechargeable cell chemistry. I've looked at NiMH as well, and saw that the light output was universally lower compared to LiCo. I'm fairly comfortable with LiCo, but being convinced to use safer cell chemistry might be advantageous. So why do you use NiMH over LiCo? Most my torches are CR123 powered. Are there NiMH CR123s? Thanks!
 

GaAslamp

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Tint: Cool/white

Do you just like the tint, or does it actually work better for you outdoors? The reason I ask is that I find that neutral white provides better contrast in natural environments. For others, cool white works better, though. Fortunately, the ZebraLight H31 and H31F also comes in neutral white (H31w and H31Fw), in case that becomes a consideration.
 

Toaster

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Toaster- Based on my research, li-ion (LiCo) is a very acceptable rechargeable cell chemistry. I've looked at NiMH as well, and saw that the light output was universally lower compared to LiCo.

That's the beauty of the Zebralight H51/SC51 and the reason they are so popular. Zebralight is able to get virtually the same output from a 1xAA Eneloop as compared to a CR123. In this case 200 versus 220 lumens which is practically imperceptible to the naked eye.

I'm fairly comfortable with LiCo, but being convinced to use safer cell chemistry might be advantageous. So why do you use NiMH over LiCo? Most my torches are CR123 powered. Are there NiMH CR123s? Thanks!

How safe you feel strapping a RCR123 cell to you forehead is a personal issue and there's plenty of discussion about that in the battery section. The real advantage in this scenario as I pointed out is runtime. The H51 running on Eneloop will have runtime on max of around 50-55 minutes. H31 running on RCR123 will have runtime on max of around 30-35 minutes.
 

BMart

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Based on my experience, I just see better when the light temp is closer to 6000k. Any lower (or higher) and it seems to get dim to my eyes. Perhaps it's an illusion, I'm not really sure, but I feel like I can see better with the lights closer to 6000k. I've heard that a warmer color is better for green and brown contrasting, but I don't notice. Maybe it has to do with my poor night vision.
 

BMart

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How safe you feel strapping a RCR123 cell to you forehead is a personal issue and there's plenty of discussion about that in the battery section.

You make a good point!!! I'm almost convinced. But if LiCo's are so dangerous then why are they so popular? And if the torch is manufactured and advertised by the OEM to run on LiCos, then is safety really an issue (while using the cell in the light)? Do LiCo's really blow up in LiCo compatible lights? If so, it's probably not worth it.

You're right about the Zebra, that lumen difference is almost negligible. Is the difference in output that close with most OEM's, or just Zebra? How can a 1.2V cell generate as much light as a 3.7V?


Oh god, sorry for all the questions...
 

Toaster

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You make a good point!!! I'm almost convinced. But if LiCo's are so dangerous then why are they so popular? And if the torch is manufactured and advertised by the OEM to run on LiCos, then is safety really an issue (while using the cell in the light)? Do LiCo's really blow up in LiCo compatible lights? If so, it's probably not worth it.

There's a reason why these RCR123 cells are shipped with protection circuits. Li-Co cells have blown up in flashlights before. See this section of the forum to find some horror stories. I don't consider them dangerous as failure is a rare occurence. But nimh are safer since they can't explosively vent with flames.


You're right about the Zebra, that lumen difference is almost negligible. Is the difference in output that close with most OEM's, or just Zebra? How can a 1.2V cell generate as much light as a 3.7V?

Zebralight is really the only manufacturer who's been able to get such amazing output from AA cells, hence their popularity. Their circuit design is just more efficient than everyone else's.
 
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