Is Dry 3xXML worth a thorough review?

I haven't seen a separate review of this Dry yet, just some posts of the owners buried in another thread. Looks like it's the cheapest one for its brightness on the market now: 2500 lumens for under $100 is unbelievable.

TDKKP said:

I haven't seen a separate review of this Dry yet, just some posts of the owners buried in another thread. Looks like it's the cheapest one for its brightness on the market now: 2500 lumens for under $100 is unbelievable.

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Also eager to see a review by someone with more detail about the runtime and hopefully a chart about lumen decay vs runtime at each output mode. On my to buy list since RRT3 is out of my budget and Sunwayman's V60C is only single LED. Only wish the DRY had a memory mode as my usage is pretty consistant.

"DRY" doesn't compare with Sunwayman or Jetbeam, since it's not a company. The "DRY" flashlight has no branding, not a single word on it. It has two drivers (choose which one when you but it), one direct drive, the other one regulated @ 2.8A-3A.
It uses 3 x 18650 in series. So if you got crap batts, it might go poof. If you mix old with new batteries, not good. Or if you mix a partially charged battery with a fully charged battery, again no good.

A runtime review can destroy the driver or the leds, so much heat. It's not like with the big brands where they use thermoregulation.

I do love the form factor and what it offers for the money. I odered one.

I'm afraid that some will buy it, use it irresponsible, then come here and say how unreliable it is.

I have the WW version, and I can attest that this is of the same quality as the 'branded' lights mentioned.

It is, in fact, made by an OEM factory.

This is the only 3 x XM-L light of which I've not heard of a failure - unlike ALL of the other available triples out there, save the TK70.

I have run my light on HIGH for over 45 minutes with no issues.

Review to follow.

Chicago X said:

I have the WW version, and I can attest that this is of the same quality as the 'branded' lights mentioned.

It is, in fact, made by an OEM factory.

This is the only 3 x XM-L light of which I've not heard of a failure - unlike ALL of the other available triples out there, save the TK70.

I have run my light on HIGH for over 45 minutes with no issues.

Review to follow.

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Add the Trustfire 3 XML along with the TK70. Havent had reports of it failing either.

Yes i do have one

I've ordered the 4-mode NW.
Supposed at 2,5-2,8A and the 12-13% brightness it loses compared to CW it should get around 2200 lumen.
Cannot wait for this boomstick to arrive!

i have the CW 3 speed version of the DRY. The battery holder gave up the ghost within a day, springs collapsed, batterys lost contact. i could use some choice expletives on what i think of this flashlight, but i wont, all i will say is, STEAR CLEAR. ITS a POS.

Baddog, can you post a picture of your collapsed springs? I don't know what a collapsed spring looks like. BTW, you may be able to get a replacement battery holder. Some other owner received his battery holder missing a part, and CNQG sent him a replacement holder I believe.

peteybaby said:

Baddog, can you post a picture of your collapsed springs? I don't know what a collapsed spring looks like. BTW, you may be able to get a replacement battery holder. Some other owner received his battery holder missing a part, and CNQG sent him a replacement holder I believe.

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Unfortunately i cant post a pic as i have removed the offending parts and have replaced the springs with great dollops of solder and its working fine now. the brass springs simply lost their ability to keep the batterys in contact...the rest of the light is ok, and i get 5.1 amps at the tail...

JHCANDLEPOWER said:

Also eager to see a review by someone with more detail about the runtime and hopefully a chart about lumen decay vs runtime at each output mode. On my to buy list since RRT3 is out of my budget and Sunwayman's V60C is only single LED. Only wish the DRY had a memory mode as my usage is pretty consistant.

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Seriously i have not done any runtime or checked utput drop in this light. Will need something like CEM DT-1309 or datalogging via usb to do that kind of nice graphing. But for those who are familiar with the usual sky rays (info on BLF and thaicpf, sorry...though there really is a lot of info found scattered here, there is no real review which gives you the whole low-down in 10 minutes), it's ard there.

But seriously, it is not designed to run for > 5-10 mins at a time, as mentioned in the BLF thread. So not very useful to log a runtime chart. For the lower powers perhaps so... Supposed to be only a fun light in high power than anything else...

The DRY driver can have memory, or used to have memory. Not sure, perhaps CNQG can send you one with memory.

Baddog said:

...the rest of the light is ok, and i get 5.1 amps at the tail...

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That's really too high. Try to charge to 4.0V. There really is very little capacity found from 4.0-4.2V. In fact i use from 3.95/3.9V thereabouts. The discharge plateau for Sanyo 2600s is pretty flat. (Sanyo OEMs, or XTAR 2600s). Unless you live in a really cold country, there is no free lumens found with such high overdriving.

My 3 mode neutral is out for delivery. Reading everyones comments got me curious, so broke down and bought one.

I've had a chance to check it out and for the price, not a bad light at all. I have the neutral 3 mode. Slightly shorter and larger in diameter than my TK35. Has a good solid feel in the hand and nice finish. Beam is nice with no artifact and LEDs are centered. Tint appears to be a little warm but the only other neutral I have to compare is the XM-L EO3. I prefer warm tints anyway, so not a problem. The only complaint I have is battery carrier seems a little cheap. Over all....I think I'll keep her.

Baddog said:

Unfortunately i cant post a pic as i have removed the offending parts and have replaced the springs with great dollops of solder and its working fine now. the brass springs simply lost their ability to keep the batterys in contact...the rest of the light is ok, and i get 5.1 amps at the tail...

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1) What does a collapsed spring look like? Did something break?
2) What kind of cells are you using? Are they shorter than average?
3) How do you get 5.1A? I am using AW IMRs and can only muster 3A with the WW version. Highest I've heard with CW is ~4A.

Baddog said:

STEAR CLEAR. ITS a POS.

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I'm sorry you had an issue with your battery holder, but nothing could be further from the truth. Could you please post pics of your 'fix?' Thanks.

2100....you had mentioned in another thread that you replaced the lens with UCL. Was there any problems with the difference in thickness?

Yes, with the UCL it seems to rattle a wee wee bit. So need an additional O-ring i guess. Budget china lights are never waterproof - they will definitely survive a rain storm and high humidity in the forest, but don't think of risking a dip in the water.

nothing can be further than the truth? i am happy to send mine to Selfbuilt to do a review, no problems. I am using AW's IMR's and the 5.1 amps at the tail is a result of asking for 5 amps at the tail Just received my SR92, chalk and cheese am happy to say!

I agree that the battery carrier looks a bit cheap. Mine was wrong assembled, no possibility to fix it so I'm waiting for a new one. I hope putting the batteries in a faulty carrier didn't damage the light. If everything turns ok I'll order me a 5-mode driver!

Here's a reflected ceiling bounce test of the Fenix TK70 and DRY CW direct drive 3-mode driver. Cell voltage ~ 3.9V, amps about 3.7A on the DMM. 18 deg C ambient in the air-con room. (so for those in much colder countries like Sweden/Canada/Russia, that'd be cool and you can get as much as 15% more light from what i tested)

I was trying to tailstand the TK70 at the end of the video. Basically just take it as 450 lux.

The DRY starts off at 548 lux but drops due to heat build-up with the emitters at well over 3A and insufficient low temp to wick the heat away. It drops from 520 -> 482 over a 3 minute duration, 7.3% drop. Pretty ok for that amount of current. (no joke) I get 15% more just by applying 2 ice cubes to the head, this result is repeatable and consistent. If you are in a cold country with decent wind flow, expect to get higher output.

I put the UCL lens in mine and it did rattle around a bit. Unable to find an O-ring that would fit properly, I Purchased teflon valve packing rope 3/32. Found that it spread apart slightly while tightening so went about 1/4 inch longer. Worked like a charm. No rattle, sealed, and looks nice too.