4 Sevens Quark Flashlight Low & High Voltage Head Identification

Hi Everyone,

The 4 Sevens Quark flashlights come in High Voltage 3-9V and also in Low Voltage 0.9-4.2V.
The 123-2 versions are the only High Voltage head available.
The High Voltage head can work with any of the battery tubes availble, without fear of damaging it.
The Low Voltage head will fit all the battery tubes, but will go if you go above 4.2V and
try to use it with two (R)CR123s.

So if you own several Quarks, and they are un-labeled, and you are unsure if the head you have
is a low voltage or a high voltage, refer to the picture below.
I also made a funny video, but I am hesitant to post it .
OK I caved in and posted the video

Got Lumens?



***Edit:
Uploaded Pics showing the RGB differences Post#13.
Uploaded Video describing a pile of Four Sevens parts: Post#20.
GL

This looks like the first definitive answer I've seen to telling them apart. Thanks for the info!

carrot said:

This looks like the first definitive answer I've seen to telling them apart. Thanks for the info!

Click to expand...

Thanks Carrot :thumbsup:

Please post your video! And thanks for the pic to clarify things

It call "Happy High Voltage"?

someone actually posted here if you use a low voltage head with two rcr123's you got yourself a pipe bomb! hahaa

glockboy said:

It call "Happy High Voltage"?

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Ha Ha too funny, Did you see my video . . . I described it just that way . . . too funny.
I said the high voltage heads have a smile . . .

roadkill1109 said:

someone actually posted here if you use a low voltage head with two rcr123's you got yourself a pipe bomb! hahaa

Click to expand...

Nope No pipe bomb. About ~3-5 seconds of really intese light, then an inaudible POP, then no light, no more. Batteries won't explode, leak, or anything bad. I have not tried it, but I am willing to say that the batteries will only drop 0.01 Volts in the time it takes to blow the Driver. The LED itself may survive, but is useless without a driver to drive it.
GL

Thanks for sharing that info. :thumbsup:

egrep said:

Please post your video! And thanks for the pic to clarify things

Click to expand...

Egrep, I like your Toxic Green Beanie :thumbsup:, check there for the video . . .
Got Lumens?

Very useful info. So far I've just been using a silver Sharpie to fill in the line around the bezel to tell the high voltage head I have apart from the low voltage ones.

B0wz3r said:

Very useful info. So far I've just been using a silver Sharpie to fill in the line around the bezel to tell the high voltage head I have apart from the low voltage ones.

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Before now, I actually used a finepiont sharpie to write on the inside of the head on the PCB to tell, like R5 9V, or S2 4.2V

This thread got me interested so I took a look at my Quarks...


I know, I know the RGBs are all 123^2 I just wrote that to emphasize that the voltage for the head is 6V. It's easy to differentiate the head though... unless you can't tell the XP-G apart from the MCE-RGB. Plus the head on the RGB is significantly longer.

Imon said:

This thread got me interested so I took a look at my Quarks...
I know, I know the RGBs are all 123^2 I just wrote that to emphasize that the voltage for the head is 6V. It's easy to differentiate the head though... unless you can't tell the XP-G apart from the MCE-RGB. Plus the head on the RGB is significantly longer.

Click to expand...

Thanks for the input!

I agree that it is very easy to distinguish from a Quark standard head.
Even if you can't make out the LED, the shallow reflector is another give away.
Also the RGB is 3-9V just like the the other Quark HV heads, I use Lions in mine mostly.
The second picture shows a previous method shared by member Ti-force. There are multiple
circut tracer paths on a high voltage head, and only one tracer path to ground on the Low Voltage
heads. Also the older Quark heads are marked using embossed small letters around the outer edge
of the driver board, tiny, like 1 pt size font.
Imon, photobucket has a built in thumbnail feature that allows you to copy the link and paste
directly into a reply without having to use insert picture button:thumbsup:
GL
.

Ok, so that makes it super easier to understand by looking at the circuit board if it's High or Low Voltage.... Thank you...

But, say you've got 10 or 12 quarks take apart? How the heck can you tell which one is Warm, HIGH Cri, Neutral, Cool, etc... Then try to figure out what bodies, etc. they go with? Anyone?

geoff538 said:

But, say you've got 10 or 12 quarks take apart? How the heck can you tell which one is Warm, HIGH Cri, Neutral, Cool, etc... Then try to figure out what bodies, etc. they go with? Anyone?

Click to expand...

Umm...turn `em on and look?
:duh2:
Seriously, as long as you run them on 4v or less for figuring which is which, you can't go wrong. Having said that, I don't play Lego with my Quarks, I use `em.

That's a little easier said than done. Are you saying you could identify just by looking at the beams of my S2, S3, R2 Warm/Cool/Neutral, R5 Warm/Cool/Neutral, heads are.....? Purely by looking at the beams and be 100% on say 8 or 10 different emmitters and tints? Wow

I know how to tell if they are Turbo, Regular, Tactical or Non Tact. But not all the tint varieties.

geoff538 said:

That's a little easier said than done. Are you saying you could identify just by looking at the beams of my S2, S3, R2 Warm/Cool/Neutral, R5 Warm/Cool/Neutral, heads are.....? Purely by looking at the beams and be 100% on say 8 or 10 different emmitters and tints? Wow
I know how to tell if they are Turbo, Regular, Tactical or Non Tact. But not all the tint varieties.

Click to expand...

I can't say with 100% accuracy because I doubt anyone can (except maybe David). But I have an accurate eye when it comes to rendition, so with several lights I'm sure I'd get pretty darn close on them. Besides, I'd cheat and use a control light with known characteristics to figure out the rest.

Seriously, my point was, why lego them all the time without knowing which part is on which other part? I've moved NW to other bodies for specific reasons, or moved small bodies for size restraints, but I don't toss all my light parts onto the floor willy-nilly at once and then try to figure out what goes where...that's just crazy talk.
:duh2: :huh: :ironic: :sick2:

I gotcha....
My main objective was, how would I know if I accidentally put the wrong head on the wrong body, etc.. I've never had 6 or 7 different quarks apart at once, but I've had a few, & if I didn't keep specific track of each, I could get mixed up really quickly. I agree, David is probably the ONLY one that could define them all.

bfksc said:

I can't say with 100% accuracy because I doubt anyone can (except maybe David). But I have an accurate eye when it comes to rendition, so with several lights I'm sure I'd get pretty darn close on them. Besides, I'd cheat and use a control light with known characteristics to figure out the rest.

Seriously, my point was, why lego them all the time without knowing which part is on which other part? I've moved NW to other bodies for specific reasons, or moved small bodies for size restraints, but I don't toss all my light parts onto the floor willy-nilly at once and then try to figure out what goes where...that's just crazy talk.
:duh2: :huh: :ironic: :sick2:

Click to expand...

geoff538 said:

I gotcha....
My main objective was, how would I know if I accidentally put the wrong head on the wrong body, etc.. I've never had 6 or 7 different quarks apart at once, but I've had a few, & if I didn't keep specific track of each, I could get mixed up really quickly. I agree, David is probably the ONLY one that could define them all.

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Hi Geoff,
In the video I did it was super easy. I used a combination to differentiate them. Like you will notice that one LV head was XP-G and the other was XM-L, The body for the Quark X is labeled, the body for the Quark Turbo is labeled. I purposely used the 18650 tube on the LV Quark Turbo. In fact I had a hard time finding some heads that I had not labeled with a sharpie on the PCB to do the post. I Label emitter flux(tint) and Tac or Reg on most of my quarks, and Tints on my Quark Minis.

geoff538 said:

That's a little easier said than done. Are you saying you could identify just by looking at the beams of my S2, S3, R2 Warm/Cool/Neutral, R5 Warm/Cool/Neutral, heads are.....? Purely by looking at the beams and be 100% on say 8 or 10 different emmitters and tints? Wow
I know how to tell if they are Turbo, Regular, Tactical or Non Tact. But not all the tint varieties.

Click to expand...

geoff538 said:

Ok, so that makes it super easier to understand by looking at the circuit board if it's High or Low Voltage.... Thank you...
But, say you've got 10 or 12 quarks take apart? How the heck can you tell which one is Warm, HIGH Cri, Neutral, Cool, etc... Then try to figure out what bodies, etc. they go with? Anyone?

Click to expand...

Yes, That is very possible on your own known lights. That might be slightly more challanging trying it with someone elses sight unseen samples due to the many different tint bins out there. Some people will have trouble, others can do it qiute easily. Every person sees tints differently.
GL

egrep said:

Please post your video! And thanks for the pic to clarify things

Click to expand...

Hi Just got a request from Geoff538 asking for the same. Sorry for the delay guys
Here is a short video describing a few differences between the LV and HV heads of the FourSevens Quark and Quark Turbo flashlights. This does include the Quark RGB or Turbo X. Hope you like it.
GL