Malkoff Junkies, couple of questions.

Malkoff Junkies,

I need a little help understand a few things.

Why the switch to a McClicky over the Kroll? I understand that is can handle more Amps but I personally prefer the feel of the Kroll. This takes me to…

Can the McClicky boot or switch be extended? Can the throw of the action be lengthened so your thumb doesn't have to bend to such an acute angle?

Can the MD2 Head use other modules? I wouldn't mind picking up a UV drop-in and use it with MD2 body and switch.

I currently have three M61, M61W and M61WLL both 3700k. I am not a big fan of either of the tints but prefer the M61. The M61 seems too blue and the M61W/3700k is too yellow or warm. Should I test out the M61N/4000k? *I see the marketplace coming soon*

Plus, I see people using the M61s in the VME 1x123 twisty. With the M61 verses the M31 the only difference I see is runtime (give or take a few lumens), correct? Would the runtime be about half of the listed MD2/M61 vs 1x123/M31? Basically, can I use the M61WLL in the twisty or should I get a M31LL?

Post or PM and thank you for all the help,
Nick

Xcel said:

Malkoff Junkies,

I need a little help understand a few things.

Why the switch to a McClicky over the Kroll? I understand that is can handle more Amps but I personally prefer the feel of the Kroll. This takes me to…

Can the McClicky boot or switch be extended? Can the throw of the action be lengthened so your thumb doesn't have to bend to such an acute angle?

Can the MD2 Head use other modules? I wouldn't mind picking up a UV drop-in and use it with MD2 body and switch.
The only other module I've seen in a Malkoff head was the Oveready triple (with some work I hear)
I currently have three M61, M61W and M61WLL both 3700k. I am not a big fan of either of the tints but prefer the M61. The M61 seems too blue and the M61W/3700k is too yellow or warm. Should I test out the M61N/4000k? *I see the marketplace coming soon*
If the M61 is too blue and the warms are too warm then the M61N would be perfect for you. The second run M61W's were 4000k and a very nice tint IMO.
Plus, I see people using the M61s in the VME 1x123 twisty. With the M61 verses the M31 the only difference I see is runtime (give or take a few lumens), correct? Would the runtime be about half of the listed MD2/M61 vs 1x123/M31? Basically, can I use the M61WLL in the twisty or should I get a M31LL?
You can use the M61WLL in the twisty at reduced power with 1x123(direct drive) or full power with 1xRCR(16340)
Post or PM and thank you for all the help,
Nick

Click to expand...

If you call Gene, he can probably fix you up with a Kroll/Judco tail switch. The old ones were all that way, and the McClicky is a relatively recent change.
My first Wildcat has a Kroll/Judco switch, and I like it fine. My other 2 Wildcats have the McClicky. I have no problem actuating either switch, but I'm sure that Gene can duplicate his old switch type for you if you ask him.

I don't know about extending the boot.

The MD2 head, Valiant head, and Elzetta heads are all machined exactly to the shape of the Malkoff drop-in brass housing for a tight fit.
This means that others might not fit properly, or might not even fit in at all.
I have read reports from users here that Oveready triples can be modified to fit, and other modules can also be modified to fit, but I have no information on exactly what is done to them.

All I can say about the triple is that if you want a triple, there is a new Wildcat Version 3 with optics that puts out 900 lumens OTF, and screws right on to the Malkoff bodies already, and costs only $189 on sale right now, but it is currently out of stock.. More will be coming into stock soon, I'm sure.
It requires over 6v or so to run, so it is a multi-battery set-up.
Check Malkoff's site for details on this new Wildcat head.
Wildcats are really something special. The oveready is a nice module, but I could have bought either, and I bought the Wildcat.
Thermal management is important, and the Wildcat requires no step-down, and can run full power the whole time, and doesn't require IMR batteries.
It's a bit larger, as the trade-off.
I would at least check it out and consider the possibility.

Great, everything I feared. Well, I'll send off a message to Gene and Cathy and see if something can be done with getting more Kroll switches. The new "W" (3700k) is not bad just not what I am looking for. Looking for more of a true white light with the tint being on the warm side then the cold side. Basically, white hotspot with light yellow spill. I'll look into the "N" (4000k).

Oh and how does is the runtime calculated with the M31s and one CR123?