Ultimate EDC durability and build quality ?

Hi guys, I need your expert advice!
Over the last few years I have bought several LED lights to use in the wilds of africa where I live - middle of a national park with lot's of dangerous game where a good flashlight is literally a life saver.

So far I have owned:
- Jetbeam (Jet 1 Pro): returned to vendor after purchase as it wouldn't run properly. Replacement has worked okay for almost one year.
- Zebra Light Head torch (AA): Recently started failing... sometimes failing to switch on.
- Maglight (Magcharger with LED conversion): switch rubber failed, LED unit contacts broke, Glass shattered twice
- Maglight XL100: has performed flawlessly.

To be honest I am tired of reliability issues. The XL100 is my wifes and works well but I just know that with my use it will also take a beating and likely fail. The old magcharger gave a good few years service and I could generally always count on it.

The zebralight I loved, but if it sometimes fails I may as well throw it away in my environment. The Jetbeam (at least the replacement one) has worked well, but after experiences with the first one and the zebra there is always a nagging doubt in my mind... When I walk around here in the dark my flashlight is all that stands between being safe or walking into a Lion! So it follows that I want a light that can be really relied on.

Going on leave soon and will be buying something for everyday use. I need advice on what light you guys would consider. Most important being reliability, next important is run time, next is AA or AAA powered. So far I am leaning towards SF Outdoorsman AA but the price is difficult to accept, but for me it is probably worth it. Kind of scared off these Chinese LED torches now!

Looking forward to some views guys, thanks!

I don't know what is the failure you are referring to on your Zebralight but you might want to take out the battery and leave it alone for 15 to 30 minutes before trying again. While you are at it, you might want to clean up the threads and contact points with isopropyl alcohol and apply a new layer of lubricant on the threads after that.

Read this and see if it helps http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?325511-ZL-SC51-quit-working

If you think your life is worth it, then I think spending the amount to get a more expensive light is a must. Surefire E2L AA is a good light with very good run time. Don't think you will go wrong with that.

Also, no matter how well made a flashlight is, nothing is 100% immune to failure. Get two lights if you really depend on it. Like the saying here, "two is one, one is none".

And welcome to CPF!

Good advice from pjandyho. You definitely need to have at least two lights if not a third smaller reliable EDC in your position. As you note you can't afford to be in the dark with all that wildlife around.

The Surefire EL2AA Outdoorsman is a keeper. It is reliable and durable and I think will cope well with any demands you place on it. Surefire also have a great warranty which applies internationally as well as domestically in the US.

Malkoff M31W or WL in SF 9P body or the Malkoff 2AA twisty comes to mind.Like the others said more than one flashlight is a must - Two is one,one is none......

For reliability, the Malkoff MD2 is a 'hands down' winner: The Hi-Low ring is a desirable addition and being able to choose the tint that most appeals makes for a very desirable and user friendly Flashlight.

Good Luck. :welcome:

pjandyho - many thanks for the tips regarding the Zebralight. I got all excited after trying your tips and it worked... for about 3 tries on and off. Shame. Certainly leaning towards the surefire at the moment with the Jetbeam for back up. The runtime of the SF is also going to be a big advantage. Many thanks for the replies and the welcome guys!

Welcome to CPF africanexperience.

When you need a very reliable light you need to spend a bit more. No real way around it.
Brands that are very widely considered among the most reliable are [in alphabetical order] Electrolumens, HDS, Malkoff, Peak, and Surefire. Some specific models from other brands that are known for durability are Arc AAA, Gerber Infinity, Inova X-5 and Streamlight ProPoly Luxeon. I'm sure there are others I don't know about or just can't think of right now.

The most "bullet-proof" lights are direct drive and are turned on by twisting [tightening the battery tube and the head]. These have only one level [no electronics to fail], and lack the convenience of a click switch. There are reliable lights that have button switches, but they just won't be quite as reliable. It might be a good idea to use a switched, multi-level light for all around use, but have a fail-safe light as a backup when necessary. No one light should be considered to be 100% reliable.


What kind of batteries would you like to use? Can you use rechargeables?

Thrifty

Ra Clicky 170t

Or
Surefire outdoorsman

Or

Malkoff md2. These 3 *I imagine* would do great in a safari.

If I had to have one AA light I knew was indestructible, it'd be the Malkoff Valiant little twisty with your choice of M30/M31 drop in. You won't get a more bulletproof light, or better warranty support than that. :thumbsup:

I'm with Fish-King, HDS Ra clicky/rotary
Surefire
Malkoff

Thanks a million guys.
The HDS stuff looks nice and is well priced, but 123 cells are not an ideal choice for me - I have a fair collection of eneloops and a Lacrosse charger so would prefer to stick with AA (as well as the fact that in a worst case there are always some available locally - like 5 hours drive!). So far Malkoff or Surefire looks good. Malkoff drop-ins all seem to be out of stock though!

So either Malkoff or SF AA and maybe a peak single AA for backup..

Peak has some excellent AA and AAA lights.

If the 2AA tubes become available in time for you, the HDS clicky or rotary would also be an excellent choice.

If reliability is really of primary importance to you, please consider getting 2 lights...

--flatline

Although it probably sounds like a broken record by now, or an echo, I think you will keep hearing "SureFire, Malkoff, HDS, Peak .... get both, or three ...."

If you are really fixed on AA format, that does significantly limit your options here. Most of the above choices can be made to work, with more or less effort. SF has the E2L-AA, of course (expensive, yes, but better than being attacked by a lion). A Malkoff M31 can be used in a "lego" with various parts to get you to 2AA. The HDS 2xAA "legacy" tube is very near unobtainable now, though. But I would probably suggest the Peak as one of the best "out of the box" solutions for AA, especially something like the Logan 17500 which can easily take either AA or CR123 (with a battery adapter).

However, if you already use eneloops, would it really be that much more difficult to get some good quality RCR123's? Then these would work great with the HDS, various different Malkoffs (but not the M31), and of course Peak.

There are lots of similar threads on CPF. One highly rugged flashlight is the Fenix E01. Excellent built quality and durable. If you need more lumens, then the Xeno E03 is a good one. Old model and constantly updated with the latest built versions (V1, V2, V3, ..) and LED's.

ZMZ67 said:

Malkoff M31W or WL in SF 9P body or the Malkoff 2AA twisty comes to mind.Like the others said more than one flashlight is a must - Two is one,one is none......

Click to expand...

G3s also work well with L and LL Malkoffs. 2AA can power quite a range of heads.

E2L-AA and a couple of Duraloops and your set for a VERY LONG time...

Eneloops are a great power source.

RCR's can be problematic if you use unprotected cells. If you use protected cells then there is a chance that the circuit will kick in and leave you in total darkness. That's not good for the kind of use you mentioned.

AA's narrow down your choices. I think a Peak would be the easiest to obtain, and I don't think any of the others would be any better, or any less expensive.

Thrifty

@LED_Thrift: Excellent point about the risks of protected cells, if the circuit were tripped.

What is the average ambient temperature? Another possible advantage of NiMH versus Li-Ion is that the eneloop chemistry may be more heat-tolerant during storage....

Haiku XML with 2AA Pak

Ambient ranges from zero (celsius) and even a bit below to sometimes 40 degrees. I love bright lights and gadgetry, but not for this use... I am a firm believer in keeping it simple and for that reason I am definately going to try to source a Malkoff. I fully agree on two lights - you all have convinced me so assuming my Jetbeam is No3, then it's going to be a Malkoff and E2L-AA I think. Can anyone give me pointers to the complexity of Malkoff drop-ins for his AA lights?