5.11 ATAC L1 and L2 flashlights

Beastmaster

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Back again from a short absence.

This is mostly a placeholder post. I have recently gotten the 5.11 ATAC 1 and 2x123 flashlights for a week now, and I figured that people here at CPF would be interested in some stuff.

A more detailed review on both will be posted on this thread.

In the one week ownership of both lights, I can summarize things in the following points:

- Good combo of throw and flood
- better UI than Streamlight's PT1L and 2L - you go high, low, then strobe.
- Rubberized anti-roll device sucks, and integrates Pocket clip as part of it
- Feels cheap, but isn't.
- Lockout tailcap has its quirks.

As I finish up the pics, I'll post a more detailed review.

-Steve
-note, edited title to be clearer...
 
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Beastmaster

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Re: 5.11 ATAC 1x123 and 2x123 flashlights...

Okay, now that I'm home, have some time to throw things onto CPF, and I know I won't be interrupted by family or friends, here's part one of the review.

As you all know, 5.11 Tactical is one of many vendors that has attempted to go into the tactical flashlight market. It's first foray into the marketplace with the so-called "Flashlight for Life" was a boondoggle, and 5.11 will have a huge hump to overcome with their new ATAC line of flashlights.

The ATAC line of flashlights are black anodized units that come with a Cree based head. They come in 5 varieties:

ATAC L1 (1x123a), 173 Lumens @ 2h, 14 Lumens @ 46h, Strobe @ 3:30
ATAC L2 (2x123a), 222 Lumens @ 4h, 10 Lumens @ 74h, Strobe @ 7:15
ATAC A1 (1xAA), 103 Lumens @ 0:50, 11 Lumens @ 28h, Strobe @ 2:15
ATAC A2 (2xAA), 162 Lumens @ 1:45, 15 Lumens @ 75h, Strobe @ 3h
ATAC PLx (2xAAA), 69 Lumens @ 3h

Tested (and purchased by me) were the ATAC L1 and L2. These units were acquired at a local 5.11 dealer called "Shooter's Vault", which was the only dealer (at the time I got them) that had the whole line in stock.

Overall, the L1 and L2 units are decent units. Black anodized aluminum with a not so sticky anti-roll ring also incorporates a removable pocket clip. This pocket clip (being that it's removable) is quite nice - you're able to rebend it in case something gets hosed.

One nice thing that the L1 and L2 units seem to do is take rechargeable 123A batteries. The barrel is bored out enough to take both AW style protected and generic unprotected 3.7v rechargeable batteries.

The heft of the units is somewhat reminiscent of the Streamlight PT1L and PT2L flashlights. Both are light in weight compared to a similar sized Surefire or Novatac 120. Even the poly bodied Surefires have more heft than the ATAC L2.

Tailcaps on both units have a rotating ring with a tab that allows you to lock out the flashlight and prevent accidental usage. This has some nice features, but it also introduces some interesting quirks. With the tailcap ring in the "unlocked" position, there were times on both the L1 and L2 where the flashlight was operating on a dimmer setting, meaning the lockout tab wasn't fully engaged in the unlocked setting. I do worry about long term use. I have spent parts of the past week in meetings just flipping the ring back and forth to simulate use and abuse. Time will only tell if the contacts will survive.

The switch is a combination momentary on and forward clicky style switch. The rubber coating is the same not-so-sticky rubber as what's used in the anti-roll ring. The extreme end of the coating has some molded knurling on it, but it doesn't (to me) give a good feel.

The aluminum body contains large chunks that remind me of an AR or M4's accessory rail. It's usefulness as a heat sink is questionable - the light does get quite warm at the emitter end of the body.

I have been (so far) unable to remove the head on both the L1 and L2 - although you can see the seam where the head and barrel meet. This is a good sign, since the light is supposedly water resistant to 2 meters depth. This, of course, I have not tested yet....mainly since I don't have a swimming pool nor do I have access to one that's at least 7 feet down.

Contacts are supposedly gold plated (per the documentation and marketing materials), and the one contact that I could see (the negative contact on the tail switch unit) does appear to be that way. The electronics also are in the tailcap.

User Interface is programmed quite decently. It's High/Low/Strobe. This is nice considering that (personally) High then Low are the most two commonly used modes. Strobe is of a decent frequency, and is full powered.

Beamshots against the wall are nice and round - no squared off oddities, just a nice round beam. There is a noticeable hot spot, with decent flood and one outer perimeter ring.

In real life, non firearm use, the beam has a decent enough use where it has good properties of flood and throw.

In testing with a firearm, the traditional Harries method works the best. The tail cap switch isn't as sensitive enough (nor can you adjust the sensitivity) to use more esoteric methods like the Thorpe. It makes it worse when attempting to use the flashlight with a smaller framed handgun (like a Ruger LCP, Diamondback DB9, or Kahr PM/CM series), and the Harries technique becomes the only way to use it.

The reasoning for this lack of flashlight technique flexibility is due to the oddball anti-roll ring. It also attempts to double as a ring (like the add on rings for Novatac, or the CombatLight shallow area and rings), but it's lack of depth prevents your fingers (and I have large hands) from getting a good grip to activate the tail cap switch against the meat of your thumb base. Removal of the ring does allow you to get some sort of purchase on the knobby areas on the barrel of the light, but it's slick due to the anodizing.

Overall, the flashlights are decent. They have definitely given some honor back to 5.11 Tactical after the abysmal attempt with their other LED Flashlight concept. The fact that it's able to use all sorts of batteries, has a regulated circuit, and has decent light for flood and throw makes it a good EDC that competes against Streamlight and their PT series. I'll be carrying the L1 and L2 as my EDC light for a while, shelving my Novatac 120P for a bit while I beat up on the 5.11 lights a bit more.

As usual, if you have any questions, feel free to post it up.

As soon as I do some cropping of the photos, photo comparisons will be going up.

-Steve
 

Beastmaster

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Re: 5.11 ATAC 1x123 and 2x123 flashlights...

More insights....

Part of this is personal opinion.

The ATAC L2's 10 lumen setting is a bit odd. Some times it's a tad bit too low for use. I find that the ATAC L1's 14 Lumen setting just right (yeah, I know - sounds like Goldilocks) in a wider variety of situations.

Even though my day job is in management, I use my flashlights a lot - I'm the type of guy that gets his hands dirty still, so I crawl around just like my guys do. The L1's 14 Lumen low setting is quite useful for a wider variety of situations, where it gives just the proper amount without being too low or too high. This is one thing that I don't quite understand - why the L2 has a lower "low" than the L1 does.

On the L2, I must have flicked the lockout tailcap switch a good 400 times today while in meetings, and it shows. The ring of the lockout has this tiny bit of play in it now, where it used to not have any.

The L1's pocket clip has had to be slightly adjusted. This is because I have also tried out the 5.11 Flashlight "holster" as well. The "holster" is nothing more than an accessory that attempts to act as a Teklok with a slotted space to run the pocket clip into. The belt clip portion does allow you to adjust it for use with a wide variety of belt sizes. Use with my 5 stitch Wilderness Tactical pistol belts is fine. Use with my double thickness leather pistol belt is impossible.

Anyhow, more info as time goes on. I do have to admit that I've now given up one of my Streamlight PT1L's to my wife (to replace the larger SureFire Backup) as her EDC flashlight, and in it's place is the 5.11 ATAC L1.

-Steve
 

Beastmaster

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Re: 5.11 ATAC 1x123 and 2x123 flashlights...

Lanyards:

The included lanyard, in a word, sucks.

Made from a combination of thick fishing line (the part that loops into the flashlight), plastic (for the friction based release), and smooth small diameter paracord type material, the lanyard is nearly impossible to get strung through the small hole destined to be used as the lanyard mounting area. This is due to the heavy monofilament line used.

Taking an Easton compound bow scale, it was determined that the average pull required to detach the friction based release (for both lanyards) was nearly 13 pounds of force. The initial pull was nearly 30 pounds (29.4 to be exact), but once the friction based safety device was operated once, subsequent releases were in the 12.3 to 12.8 pound range.

Avoid the lanyard...it's useless.
 

dano

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Re: 5.11 ATAC 1x123 and 2x123 flashlights...

Bought an L2 on a whim. Horrible beam profile, way to floody, which causes a weak and washed out beam. Physically, it's nice, just needs a more focused beam.
 

Robin24k

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Re: 5.11 ATAC 1x123 and 2x123 flashlights...

We got the ATAC A1, A2, and PLx for review last week, and I took pictures and conducted runtime tests (editor is writing review). I agree with you on the floody beam...all of 5.11's lights are floody and better for close work.

Regulation is a little strange on the AA model though. The A1 and PLx have typical runtime graphs, but the A2 uses PWM to decrease to and maintain 50% beyond 2 hours. They don't use common circuitry in their lights, so it's hard to say what that the L1 and L2 graphs will look like.
 

Beastmaster

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We got the ATAC A1, A2, and PLx for review last week, and I took pictures and conducted runtime tests (editor is writing review). I agree with you on the floody beam...all of 5.11's lights are floody and better for close work.

Regulation is a little strange on the AA model though. The A1 and PLx have typical runtime graphs, but the A2 uses PWM to decrease to and maintain 50% beyond 2 hours. They don't use common circuitry in their lights, so it's hard to say what that the L1 and L2 graphs will look like.

The L1 and L2 use tailcaps with the same part number and circuit board ID. I haven't been able to disassemble the head end yet. I suspect they are doing a combo method of having some intelligence on both the tailcap and the head.

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Robin24k

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Is there circuitry in the tailcap? I think it's just a switch in the A1 or A2 (the numbers on ours are 0911, which is the manufacture month/year).

5.11's products have always been on the expensive side, and I think the ATAC lights (except the PLx) are on the more expensive side. I think somewhere you had mentioned the ProTac 1L...you can get two of those for the price of the ATAC L1.
 

Beastmaster

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I need to take a piece of wire and play with the body with a battery inside it.

The L1 is nearly twice the price of a Streamlight PT1L. I suspect that the Ano is HA II instead of HA III on the ATAC.

-Steve


Is there circuitry in the tailcap? I think it's just a switch in the A1 or A2 (the numbers on ours are 0911, which is the manufacture month/year).

5.11's products have always been on the expensive side, and I think the ATAC lights (except the PLx) are on the more expensive side. I think somewhere you had mentioned the ProTac 1L...you can get two of those for the price of the ATAC L1.



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Beastmaster

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There is an additional ID number set on the tailcap.

Imprinted on the green board with the gold plated spring is:

Top: 609-03-17
Bottom: 2011-07-29

The green board definitely looks like some sort of circuit board with rivets holding it down.

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Beastmaster

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Took a piece of wire and bridged the negative contact to the body's interior. The light wouldn't turn on. Odd.

In addition, the tailcap won't activate until it is compressing the spring to where to where it hits a contact. Merely turning the cap down one thread and pressing or clicking the switch on doesn't turn the light on.

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Beastmaster

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Bought an L2 on a whim. Horrible beam profile, way to floody, which causes a weak and washed out beam. Physically, it's nice, just needs a more focused beam.

I find the beam more focused than my Novatac 120P. Both have enough throw to light things up for handgun combat ranges.

The reflector isn't that deep, but when wall hunting the beam has a better hot spot than my Novatac and my Streamlight.

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Robin24k

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Hmm, the alkaline lights don't have any circuitry in the tailcap. Electronic switches can be mounted on PCB with a resistor (so that the light knows if it's a half or full press), and that might be the case. However, the alkaline lights use mechanical switches and I can get tailcap current readings by bridging the battery and threads. I wonder why they made the lithium lights more complicated...
 

Beastmaster

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Hmm, the alkaline lights don't have any circuitry in the tailcap. Electronic switches can be mounted on PCB with a resistor (so that the light knows if it's a half or full press), and that might be the case. However, the alkaline lights use mechanical switches and I can get tailcap current readings by bridging the battery and threads. I wonder why they made the lithium lights more complicated...

Well, I can blame something on AW's RCR123's.

I tend to use those batteries mainly for two reasons. One is the protection circuit, and two is that if the body works with an AW, it will work with any 123a.

If i do the wire test with an AW battery, I get no light.

If I use a primary, it works.

If I use an unprotected 123 rechargeable, it works.

Very odd. AW's work normally with the tailcap, just not with a piece of wire bridge.

So, I stand corrected.

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Robin24k

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Maybe you need more pressure to get a connection? There should be no difference with using a wire or using the tailcap.
 

Beastmaster

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Don't know why that oddity occurs. But, I can duplicate the switch with a primary or unprotected rechargeable 123a and a paper clip.

The light definitely relies on being handheld for additional heat sinking. Early experimentation shows I'm having to sandwich the L1 and L2 between ice packs to gain decent runtimes when I'm not holding it. I play with my lights when I'm bored in meetings, but I can't do runtime testing while holding it for hours.
 

Beastmaster

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Don't know why that oddity occurs. But, I can duplicate the switch with a primary or unprotected rechargeable 123a and a paper clip.

The light definitely relies on being handheld for additional heat sinking. Early experimentation shows I'm having to sandwich the L1 and L2 between ice packs to gain decent runtimes when I'm not holding it. I play with my lights when I'm bored in meetings, but I can't do runtime testing while holding it for hours.

It's not icepacks that I need. The L1 gives me all of 15 minutes on high with a rechargeable before autodimming down a step.

I'm going to the L2 tonight to see if I get similarly scaled results.

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Robin24k

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Does it look something like this?

ATAC_A2_Runtime.png
 
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