Just some dumb questions

thevinstigator

Newly Enlightened
Joined
Sep 17, 2011
Messages
3
Location
New Jersey
Have bought some lights and now I have some questions.
I bought a modded Solarforce with a NailBender that takes 18650 batteries, has just a 1 position (high) clickie. What is the nailbender?? What makes this so special compared to other lights?? Is this a Cree Light??
Recently wanted to buy a Stock Solarforce and the ordering is very confusing to a NOOB.
Crenelation is this a thread in bezel??? Flat Bezel or Crenelation?
1 mode, 3 mode or 5 mode drop in, LC-XPG (r-5 Single mode 0.8v to 4.2v) or (r-5 single mode 3v to 18v) ? I don`t know what this means I want to use 18650 protected or unprotected cells about 2200 mah.
Solarforce Cree XML Dropin: Solarforce 3.7v 3 mode Cree XML drop in? Is a CREE just a type of LED that is used in these lights?? If I select the Solarforce Cree XML do I still need to get the other drop in (1 mode, 3 mode, or 5 mode??)
I am assuming the Cree XML is the head portion, and the mode drop in is the tail cap switch, am I correct??
Thanks for your help I am just starting to dabble in this new facination, however I think I have started to amass some nice lights so far: Surefire 9P non-LED light about 13 years old, Solarforce Light with Nailbender, And I just ordered Steve Ku`s awesome little light the 40DD. Just very confusing for my simple mind.
Thanks Vince
 
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enomosiki

Flashlight Enthusiast
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Mar 13, 2011
Messages
1,109
Cree is one of the manufacturers of LED emitters, well know from their MC, XR, XP and XM lines. If you see an emitter with the designations like XR-E, XP-E, XP-G or XM-L, then it's manufactured by Cree.

A drop-in is a self-contained module that contains the reflector, emitter, driver circuitry and heatsink that you can literally "drop in" to a compatible flashlight host. There are different types of drop-ins available, but the most proliferated ones are usually in the P60 form pioneered by Surefire.

An 18650 rechargeable lithium battery runs at about 4.2V. You will want to check the voltage of these cells before sticking them into a light. For example, the first drop-in that you have mentioned supports from 0.8V to 4.2V, which means that it will be compatible with a 4.2V 18650 cell. If you can find the proper host, you can even use 1.5V batteries (usually AAA or AA) with it. As long as the total voltage provided from the batteries are within 0.8V to 4.2V, it will run fine. If you up the voltage any higher by, say, putting in two CR123A primary lithium batteries, each of which provide 3V and totalling in 6V, you will fry the driver. Seeing how both drop-ins accept 4.2V, either will do just fine when running them on 18650.
 

yellow

Flashlight Enthusiast
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Oct 31, 2002
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Hi Vince,
You chose the right setup!
Imho in the moment nothing beats a light running with an 18650.

* "nailbender" is a member here on CPF - look at Custom & modified sub-forum - who builds Led inserts for hosts like Yours.
The key is, that he not "only" types to use the latest led, thats what cheapo offers do, he really uses the led he offers.
and then You also can choose what tint (color of light)and what driver (single mode, multimode) to get and the parts used (reflector and setting of it) are very good.
More expensive than cheapo led-inserts, but much more worth in real.


* The mode selection usually is in the led insert itself, the back switch only makes on/off.
So when You have the insert, You dont need anything else.

* the insert (the driver) is made for a certain input voltage, for Your single Li-Ion that should be something like 3-4,5 V.
If it is 4,5-8 V, that will not run good with the single cell.

* only use "protected", nothing else. And the newest ones are 2.900 mAh.
Around here the cells of "AW" (again a member in here) are considered the best. You can purchase directly from him by searching for his li-ion cells sales thread, I get mine from the shop lighthound.


As to the led:
Enomosiki typed most of the info already.
Cree is a maker for Led, in the moment - and for quite some years now - the one with the most interresting led
the XM-L is the newest one, considered the "best" by most. It gives the most light at a certain current but makes for a wider beam.
The XP-G is the 2nd lastest one, not really much "weaker" than the XM-L, and the beam from it is almost half as bright.
So when both run at the same power, the beam of the XP-G is thinner but brighter.
The real difference is, that the XM-L can stand about three times the current and thus gets extremely bright in comparison.
(but than also needs that much more power).
The XR-E is the model before the last 2 and still considered the one best for throw, but gives so much less light output, that I would no longer purchase anything using it.

For now You might just start with any led.
By useing the light and by reading in here, You will surely get so some things You like best and then can change Your light by ordering another insert.
(thats the best part of this modular build, You can always change the light engine very easy)
Some of these things are: machining Quality of the host, single- or mulitlevel, the way the levels are "placed (high to low, or the other way round), the tint of the led (the color in which the white light tends, ranging from blue to "warm")

watch Your wallet
 

StarHalo

Flashaholic
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Dec 4, 2007
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An 18650 is a particular size of lithium-ion battery, as found in notebook computers; if you're going to be using lithium-ion batteries, please make sure you read up on proper safety and handing procedures, as they can explode if used improperly.
 

yellow

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which is almost true, but dont start to fear about that!
:rolleyes:

by using "protected" cells, ANY possible one-in-a-million problem will not happen ...
 

Th232

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Dec 25, 2008
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Sydney, Australia
Vince, I'd recommend you look up Li-ion safety as StarHalo said. What's the harm in educating yourself on the risks and learning how to take proper care of the batteries?

which is almost true, but dont start to fear about that!
:rolleyes:

by using "protected" cells, ANY possible one-in-a-million problem will not happen ...

Unless said protection fails. :rolleyes: To say that a protection circuit will guarantee nothing will ever go wrong is incorrect, there's always something that can go wrong. The protection circuit also won't cover anything involved with the chemistry of the cell.
 
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PapaLumen

Enlightened
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Apr 19, 2010
Messages
801
Location
UK
You can choose a body and a drop-in or the whole thing including drop-in from solarforce sales. Body-only includes tailcap and head, just needs drop-in.
 
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