This is my 2nd built of an experimental head lamp. Because the only power tools I have are a mini drill press and a Black & Decker RTX rotary tool. I am looking for the material which is ready made for the housing. Recently, I bought a MR11 DIY housing kit which I use in this project.
1) The housing is constructed by the MR11 barrel and a 45x45x18mm Aluminum case.
The DIY MR11 housing kit
2) The original design is for Taiwan made LED. I modified to use Cree XPE or XPG. The Aluminum slug beneath the star is used to compensate of the difference of the height. If you use a XML, a lens specially made for XML is required.
The LED compartment with the front cover and lens removed
3) The driver is a homemade buck driver. The MCU is temporary connected to the programming adaptor for fine tuning the settings.
The schematic of the driver
4) The User Interface software is BLF-VLD 0.4 which you can download here.http://budgetlightforum.com/node/799
I would like to thank Tido who shares this wonderful software with us and DrJones helps me solve the problems.
I don't want the blinking signal when the light level is ramping down as the battery voltage drops below the threshold.
You should omit these codes by putting // at the beginning of the line of the source codes.
When the light level starts to ramp down, you have fifteen minutes to replace your battery before the protection circuit cut the power off.
5) The battery pack is 2S1P Sanyo UR18650F or UR18500F. The charger is Max1757 which I have posted here. http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?324128-Max1757-8-Li-ion-Battery-Charger-DIY
The homemade battery protection PCB with balancer.
6) Findings:
The XPE is driven at 1A while the ambient temperature is 25C, the case will rise to 50C in still air. For the peoples who live in the tropical area,the ambient temperature is always as high as 32C which implies the case temperature will rise above 65C. I think a temperature monitor is required to maximize the light output while the lamp can be kept in a compact size. I am testing to replace the R2 with a NTC sensor which ramps down the light level when the LED is too hot. The primary testing is workable. I shall fine tune the setting in the near future.
There are a lot of different angles 20mm interchangeable can be used. The following are the few I have had. From left to the right, 5, 8, 45, 60, 120.
1) The housing is constructed by the MR11 barrel and a 45x45x18mm Aluminum case.
The DIY MR11 housing kit
2) The original design is for Taiwan made LED. I modified to use Cree XPE or XPG. The Aluminum slug beneath the star is used to compensate of the difference of the height. If you use a XML, a lens specially made for XML is required.
The LED compartment with the front cover and lens removed
3) The driver is a homemade buck driver. The MCU is temporary connected to the programming adaptor for fine tuning the settings.
The schematic of the driver
4) The User Interface software is BLF-VLD 0.4 which you can download here.http://budgetlightforum.com/node/799
I would like to thank Tido who shares this wonderful software with us and DrJones helps me solve the problems.
I don't want the blinking signal when the light level is ramping down as the battery voltage drops below the threshold.
You should omit these codes by putting // at the beginning of the line of the source codes.
When the light level starts to ramp down, you have fifteen minutes to replace your battery before the protection circuit cut the power off.
5) The battery pack is 2S1P Sanyo UR18650F or UR18500F. The charger is Max1757 which I have posted here. http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?324128-Max1757-8-Li-ion-Battery-Charger-DIY
The homemade battery protection PCB with balancer.
6) Findings:
The XPE is driven at 1A while the ambient temperature is 25C, the case will rise to 50C in still air. For the peoples who live in the tropical area,the ambient temperature is always as high as 32C which implies the case temperature will rise above 65C. I think a temperature monitor is required to maximize the light output while the lamp can be kept in a compact size. I am testing to replace the R2 with a NTC sensor which ramps down the light level when the LED is too hot. The primary testing is workable. I shall fine tune the setting in the near future.
There are a lot of different angles 20mm interchangeable can be used. The following are the few I have had. From left to the right, 5, 8, 45, 60, 120.
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