Flashlights for Alaska?

My brother sent me on a mission to search for flashlights that will work in Alaska. He is figuring about $500 for 4 flashlights, and batteries (minimum 12 sets of batteries per flashlight)

I've been thinking of 2 XM-L L2/6P/9P's driven at 350mA (potted drivers, of course), or 2 U2's modded to XM-L (to increase effective lumen-hours) for one pair of lights, and then 2 other lights possibly like a 2D-4D Mag modded to accept CR123's (because Mag's are easier to hold in cold temps than something smaller, like a 6P/L2), and a buck driver, to run one XM-L, or something similar (I figure combo between throw and flood. No need to see 500' away) at multiple levels (3.5A max, for short periods).

CR123 lights are preferred, as temps there do hit extremely low (He'll be living in Anchorage). If there's another type of chemistry that works well in sub zero weather, feel free to suggest it! If there were super caps that took place of regular batteries, I'd be up for doing some testing, to see what kind of capacity they have.

Is there any reason I shouldn't use an L2 instead of a 6P, since the guts will be LED, rather than incan? I can always buy him 2 Z41 tailcaps, to make it easier to turn the lights on.

Any leftover $ goes to me, btw (which I'll end up using on lights or my Fiero), but I'd rather he get a reliable cold weather light than get more cash for myself.

No fancy mode changing, either (he's not a huge fan of the Quark interface. Wants it simple like a regular clicky, or the selector ring like the U2).

Forgot to add:
If anyone knows of any battery vampires besides the common E01/P60 with a 5mm LED, let me know! I figure he'd probably love a few of those to use for the "dead" CR123's, for house navigation or looking for things inside his car.

Thanks,
Brian

If You want to run the XM-Ls with CR123s don't take drop-ins with 7135 linear regulators (like Nailbenders) because they will convert roughly 25% of the energy into heat if You use two CR123s. Besides CR123s, You can also use Lithium AAs in the cold.
I understand that You want single mode lights. A Malkoff M61L should do the job very efficient with 175 Lumens for 4.5 hours, the M61LL offers 100 Lumens for 9 hours. If Your brother has to work without gloves for some time, You should consider a G2 host because plastic is more comfortable to touch in the cold than metal.
For the Maglites: Do you want to equip them with powerful drop-ins? The Malkoff 6C drop-in should work with three CR123 in series. Three CR123 should fit into a Maglite 2C if You use a simple plastic tube as an adaptor.

Your friend is down in the banana belt!

Me and my friends work outside all winter and none of them are flashaholics, but since there is the opportunity
to have need for a good light 20 hours a day in the middle of winter, it's not too hard to get some interest in
decent lights. I sold two Clicky's to one of them last year, who had me hurry up and get the second one
after having lost the first, which sad to say, was a hCRI.

Just the other day on the plane I sat next to another buddy from work and showed him the lights I had in
my pockets, and he liked all of them, from the E2e, Titan, hCRI Clicky, Haiku and V10R Ti, but it was this
last one that he said he just had to have. He loved the compact size, incandescent tint and super low
output with decent high capability.

I'll figure out his light when I get back, but he started showing more and more interest in the hCRI Clicky
as I explained the feature set to him. If you're using the light at work, there will be myriad opportunities
to use low levels which conserve of battery power and save your eyes too. With travelers from all around
the world having cameras out on tripods to get shots of the aurora, keeping your lights down to minimal
levels is not only considerate, it's good for business too.

bstrickler said:

I've been thinking of 2 XM-L L2/6P/9P's driven at 350mA (potted drivers, of course), or 2 U2's modded to XM-L (to increase effective lumen-hours) for one pair of lights, and then 2 other lights possibly like a 2D-4D Mag modded to accept CR123's (because Mag's are easier to hold in cold temps than something smaller, like a 6P/L2), and a buck driver, to run one XM-L, or something similar (I figure combo between throw and flood. No need to see 500' away) at multiple levels (3.5A max, for short periods).

Click to expand...

My thoughts:

• A pair of SureFire G3's containing Malkoff M61L's. This hits your ~350mA requirement, with the Nitrolon host being nice to hold in cold weather (as Erzengel stated above). The slightly longer 3-cell bodies will be much easier to hold & use with heavy gloves compared to the 2-cell bodies - I know this from personal experience.
• Another pair of SureFire 9P's containing (XM-L) Malkoff M91's. This might satisfy the high-output requirement, yet still be as efficient as possible. Malkoff designed the M91 to be compatible with 3xCR123 - other high-output modules are driven harder, are somewhat less efficient, and pretty much require LiIon chemistries which will not be satisfactory with the expected temperatures.

I think that commonality between these lights could prove a benefit, as many parts would be interchangeable. Furthermore, the differences in beam characteristics between the M61 series (extremely efficient, some throw w/ nice spill) and the M91 series (bright and floody) should result in both lights being very useful.

Regarding reliability of the LED dropin: yup, Malkoff all the way. About as bombproof as they come, and I've seen a lot of things fail when it gets down to 60 below.

I don't recommend the non-SureFire hosts (such as SolarForce, for example) when using Malkoff drop-ins. The Malkoffs are designed for the internal dimensions of the SureFires and don't fit as well in the other hosts.

Anyway, I grew up in AK (where we would consider the area that kaichu dento lives in to be the banana belt :wave: ), and I still visit on occasion. I really think that three-cell SureFires & Malkoff modules would be the ticket there.

Hope this helps,

Kestrel said:

My thoughts:

• A pair of SureFire G3's containing Malkoff M61L's. This hits your ~350mA requirement, with the Nitrolon host being nice to hold in cold weather (as Erzengel stated above). The slightly longer 3-cell bodies will be much easier to hold & use with heavy gloves compared to the 2-cell bodies - I know this from personal experience.
• Another pair of SureFire 9P's containing (XM-L) Malkoff M91's. This might satisfy the high-output requirement, yet still be as efficient as possible. Malkoff designed the M91 to be compatible with 3xCR123 - other high-output modules are driven harder, are somewhat less efficient, and pretty much require LiIon chemistries which will not be satisfactory with the expected temperatures.

I think that commonality between these lights could prove a benefit, as many parts would be interchangeable. Furthermore, the differences in beam characteristics between the M61 series (extremely efficient, some throw w/ nice spill) and the M91 series (bright and floody) should result in both lights being very useful.

Regarding reliability of the LED dropin: yup, Malkoff all the way. About as bombproof as they come, and I've seen a lot of things fail when it gets down to 60 below.

I don't recommend the non-SureFire hosts (such as SolarForce, for example) when using Malkoff drop-ins. The Malkoffs are designed for the internal dimensions of the SureFires and don't fit as well in the other hosts.

Anyway, I grew up in AK (where we would consider the area that kaichu dento lives in to be the banana belt :wave: ), and I still visit on occasion. I really think that three-cell SureFires & Malkoff modules would be the ticket there.

Hope this helps,

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Lot of great info there, and having just read the whole OP with benefit of having had some sleep, see that while some of my input may have some value, yours is more on point, particularly the mention of non-metallic bodies.

Cord wrap is another option for reducing bare metal contact and also offers even better grip when being held with gloves, or worse yet, mushers mittens.

LOL about the banana belt comparison and I'm trying to think of where, other than the north or west slope, where there's nothing to stop the wind, that generally gets that much colder than the interior? Anyway if you're up this winter you should stop in at the hot springs.... oh, is that what you were referring to?

kaichu dento said:

Cord wrap is another option for reducing bare metal contact and also offers even better grip when being held with gloves, or worse yet, mushers mittens.

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Good idea, if a wider body grip is needed (per the OP's thoughts in post #1), a standard SureFire body with paracord wrap could supply the width easily, and would provide excellent grip as well.

kaichu dento said:

LOL about the banana belt comparison and I'm trying to think of where, other than the north or west slope, where there's nothing to stop the wind, that generally gets that much colder than the interior? Anyway if you're up this winter you should stop in at the hot springs.... oh, is that what you were referring to?

Click to expand...

The official record low is -79F for my hometown. :devil:
I'd tell you the record high, but that would make it too easy to figure out where I'm from.

Plus you have the backup alternative to run the Malkoff M61LL with 2 lithium AA's in the Surefire G3/9P's bodies if need be.

Kestrel said:

Good idea, if a wider body grip is needed (per the OP's thoughts in post #1), a standard SureFire body with paracord wrap could supply the width easily, and would provide excellent grip as well.

Click to expand...

Keeps from getting frostbitten lips too!

The official record low is -79F for my hometown. :devil:
I'd tell you the record high, but that would make it too easy to figure out where I'm from.

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We had 104 in Chatanika for about three days one time! I remember the cook telling me he'd gone outside to get away from the grill for a bit, then going right back to the grill since it felt natural to be excruciatingly hot there!

I've guided down to -54 below, but only a half hour on that one. At -35, -40, many, many times... -79 below sounds like Deadhorse to me!

With no wish to discourage enthusiasm, I would like to point out that Anchorage, even in January, is usually above zero degrees. At the moment, as I write, it is plus 19, up from yesterday's unusually chilly low of 2. ( I believe the all-time record low is -35, and that was on one night in 1975, if I remember correctly. In the last few decades, the temperature has essentially not dropped below about negative 20, and when it is that cold, there is no wind.)

Most flashlights work quite well in such temperatures, IF allowance is made for the effect of cold on battery chemistry. Even then, cold is not a problem if the flashlight is kept in an inner pocket when not being used. Hence my choice for night excursions in any weather is a mini AA in each pant pocket and a Preon2 in the shirt pocket, all on eneloops: for me, enough light for an entire winter night of wandering, and then some.

Before the LED revolution, I used to go on November hunting trips with--I'm not making this up--a pair of small $4.19 plastic Eveready incandescents on twin AA alkalines, all bought at the Safeway Halloween rack. Again, the trick was to keep them in an inner pocket until needed. They never failed me.

Seems to me the trick of choosing a flashlight for chilly conditions is the same as for most other conditions: to understand what it will actually be used to do, for how long, and where it will be stored when not in use. . . BUT if is to be exposed to cold when not working, and then needed for more than brief illumination, to spend money on lithium batts.

I don't have a lot of experience with using lights in the cold, but yesterday I noticed the my Sunwayman V20C had been left in my car over night at a temperature of about 20 F, and the control was extremely stiff, I'm guessing because the lubricant became more viscous at lower temperatures. So, I'd probably stay away from any control ring type lights for use in the cold, unless you know the lubricant used will be able to handle it.

Bigmac_79 said:

I don't have a lot of experience with using lights in the cold, but yesterday I noticed the my Sunwayman V20C had been left in my car over night at a temperature of about 20 F, and the control was extremely stiff, I'm guessing because the lubricant became more viscous at lower temperatures. So, I'd probably stay away from any control ring type lights for use in the cold, unless you know the lubricant used will be able to handle it.

Click to expand...

As Mark pointed out above, as long as you're not an exterior carrier (belt pouches etc...) and have your lights in an inside pocket (not your outer jacket pocket where I've had cans of pop undrinkable because they froze in my pocket), it'll be warm enough for the controls to work, but you're still right, as the light will definitely cool down quickly and that's one of the reasons that my V10R is probably not going to get much use outside this winter.

MarkW said:

Most flashlights work quite well in such temperatures, IF allowance is made for the effect of cold on battery chemistry. Even then, cold is not a problem if the flashlight is kept in an inner pocket when not being used. Hence my choice for night excursions in any weather is a mini AA in each pant pocket and a Preon2 in the shirt pocket, all on eneloops: for me, enough light for an entire winter night of wandering, and then some.

Before the LED revolution, I used to go on November hunting trips with--I'm not making this up--a pair of small $4.19 plastic Eveready incandescents on twin AA alkalines, all bought at the Safeway Halloween rack. Again, the trick was to keep them in an inner pocket until needed. They never failed me.

Seems to me the trick of choosing a flashlight for chilly conditions is the same as for most other conditions: to understand what it will actually be used to do, for how long, and where it will be stored when not in use. . . BUT if is to be exposed to cold when not working, and then needed for more than brief illumination, to spend money on lithium batts.

Click to expand...

Good hands on info there thanks and good thread, I'd like a chance to test some light's in sub zero temps but living in Tennessee single digit temps is about as cold as it's get, unfortunately I get plenty experience with the effects of humidity.

http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb...Custom-strap&p=3785243&highlight=#post3785243

Check out this thread. Get Malkoff's. They are incredible. You can also use their hosts, the MD2, MD3, or MD4. Another member had this idea and I easily replicated it with 8 dollar bicycle grips off of Amazon. It makes the light incredibly more useful. I live in Maine and go for walks with my girlfriend 3 times a week. Tonight I had an SR-51 in my hand with an aluminum body. It got down to about 30 and the light was freezing after 20 minutes. I switched to my MD3 with my M91 in it and the light was nice to hold with bare hands. With gloves its got a more substantial and very tacky grip. Perfect for cold weather. Nitrolon is ok too, but this stuff is actually sticky and perfect for gloves whereas I think Nitrolon can be a little slippery.

(Un)fortunately, my brother got a job offer in Palmdale, that will take him next month, so the Alaska job is unfortunately out of the question now, meaning he has no need for the lights anymore

I will definitely take the advice to mind, though, for future lights for myself.

It was a good thread advice

marinemaster said:

It was a good thread advice

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Very much so! I never would have thought of the handlebar grip method for putting around metal light bodies.

I had been contemplating this very thing (see the link in post #13) for my MD2 this winter.

Being a bykfixer, I already have some grips laying around.

And the break-away lanyard trick is also pretty sweet!!