CeraKote and Surefire issue

RedBaron

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Dec 6, 2006
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I had a 9P CeraKoted (by a professional). Running an Ultrafire led lamp and a TLS tailcap. I've scrubbed alot of the cerakote off the tailcap threads and lubed it. Everything seems to be snug. But no lumens out the front end. Any suggetions as to what may be wrong and/or what else I can try? Thanks, all.
 

skyfire

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Dec 4, 2009
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check batteries,
check that the drop-in is making solid contact with battery tube...

if you have a multimeter, u can toubleshoot and check the batteries, and switch. as well as drop-in contact, which im thinking is the problem.
 

DUQ

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Jun 22, 2005
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Try this, remove the switch and use a piece of wire to short the battery to the body. If its a switch problem then the light should work with the wire. You can also try running the light with the head removed. It's possible that the lamp is not making contact with the body. If you push down on it with the switch engaged, the lamp should light up.
 

HotWire

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Mar 9, 2011
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Lots of good advice here. Use a paperclip to connect the - end of the battery to the body. Clean the tail-cap inside. Sand off the Cerekote on the tail end of the light. Try different batteries. Try the original P60 or another led dropin. Be sure the spring contacts the inside of the head when screwed together. On some M3 models the spring must be bent to make the lamp work. You'll find it.
 

RedBaron

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Thanks guys. Several good things to try that I hadn't thought of. Update on what worked this evening.
 

purelite

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Nov 9, 2005
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sounds like the flat rim above the tail threads might be covered in cerakote. That needs to be bare aluminium for electrical path . I have had 5Mega c series bodies that needed to be lightly sanded on that surface to function properly
 

RedBaron

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Lamp and switch work on my C3; P90 no good on the 9P. Gotta be the cerakoted tube. May be time to get the Dremel out and buff off the threads and flat rim.
 

Size15's

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The threads play no part in the electrical path. They can be as electrically insulated and full of dirt as you like. That makes no difference.

As mentioned, the TailCap switch contact assembly makes contact with the rear face of the body.

P296.jpg
 

RedBaron

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Dec 6, 2006
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Well, guys, I don't know what to try next, if anything. The lamp/switch work on other lights and combinations. Guess I have a nice cerakoted paperweight. thanks for all the help and suggestions. >sigh<

Just thought to try the lamp/switch on my C3.
 
Last edited:

Machete God

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May 21, 2010
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So did you try swapping parts from your C3? It definitely sounds like the tube, though. Assuming you've already removed all traces of cerakote from the rim at the tailcap end of the tube, look inside the head of the tube. Is there any cerakoting on the red-rectangled areas in the picture below?

C2_tube.jpg


(Picture credits: CPF user 'edc3', from this thread)
 

RI Chevy

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If you worried about the inside of the host, use a little extra fine steel wool, and clean it up. The steel wool should take that right off.
 

RedBaron

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Dec 6, 2006
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In messing with it this morning, I noticed the beveled area at the bezel lip has a light coating of material. Scrapping it resulted in a weak response. I'll steel wool it tonight and see if that completes the connection. Thanks Machete God.
 
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