TL-3 running on 2 Pila 150s

i don't know if this was ask before,does the Pila 150s fits TL-3? how is the run time?thks.

anybody?pls.....

Sunday is traditionally a slow day here at CPF...you ought to get an answer sooner or later if you wait for it. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif
Provided, of course, that somebody has both a TL-3 and a couple of Pila 150s.
I don't have either, so I can't answer this question myself.

Was a dumb post, so I got rid of it.

thks Craig.it is ok.still waiting.thks anyway for replying.you are always helpful.

hi JonSidneyB,correct me if i'm wrong.i was thinking running my TL-3 using 2 150A or 2 150s ,replacing 3 cr123.

ok i just checked it out for you....two LRB-150B batteries should be able to run the light according to this page /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif

I haven't tried Pila on TL-3 but I did try it on TL-3 LED, it doesn't work. TL-3 LED is the only 3x123 light that couldn't be able to utilize Pila battery. While TL-3 and its LED has the same body, its anode contact is different so I couldn't be sure if TL-3 incandescent version would work or not.

Oops.. it's LED forum so I guess you're referring to TL-3 LED. If it's the case, the answer is no:-(


Alan

so would reversing the polarity of the batteries work?

Good thought, but not a very good idea. Unless you're sure the TL-3 LED has reversed polarity protection, don't try it.

Alan

chamenos,i cannot acess www.wolf-eyes.com. don't know why.still trying.
hi Alan.this 150A or 150s ,does it have polarity like surefire B90 battery? i don't have any Pila battery so no idea how it is constructed.sounds silly.
you know like B90 where the nipple is positive and the surrounding it is negative.or its layout is like normal battery,positive at the top and negative at the bottom.
i believe should the latter.(sounds like stupid question)

NO! the problem is that the two 150s batteries are aproximately 4 mm longer than 3 123 batteries. what this extra length does when you screw the switch onto the body is it pushes the LED assembly forward breaking the ground path. which is also the thermal path to the flashlight body. i'm looking at alternative switches that do not fit up inside the battery tube like the stock switch does by about 4 mm. hope you can make some sense of my ramblings, i do have the light and batteries, still looking for a different switch. dave

OK,
The 150 batt is about the size of 1 and 1/2 123's. The 168 batt is about the size of 2X123's.

If the anode contact is not making contact, it's probably because of the shape of the button on the Pila cell. I've heard of people using small magnets to make up for this. I just quickly place a bead of solder on the button for contact.

As long as the combined voltage of the Pilas don't exceed the voltage of the combined 123's they replace there shouldn't be a problem. (Referring to incands.) It just becomes a matter of how well the batts drive the light. I use two Pila 150's in my Surefire M3 and they drive it VERY nicely.

In an LED light it's a matter of the regulation, if any. If the light is just resistored, you'll need to take some readings. I've successfully directly driven a 1W LED on 3 AA's at 4.5v, but direct driving the 1W LED on a single 4.1v Pila fried the LED. If your light is an led and is designed to run on 3X123's and its a 1W, it probably has a buck circuit and the 2 pilas should work fine. You'll need to measure the inside diameter of the tube and determine which pilas you need. The A's are 19mm in diameter and the S's are 17mm in diameter. The S's are what I use to fit into my Surefires.

ok,from the feedback, i understand the problem is the 2 Pila 150A or 150s is 4mm longer than the 3 cr123.
i look at my TL-3 ,with 3 cr123 fitted,it has about 7mm of space to allow the tail switch and spring contact to sit nicely.
if the spring is somehow 'reduce',(using a shorter one) this should reduce the pressure on the led, so will this solve the problem?

FBA,
I'm confused now. Is your problem with the physical length of the Pila cells? They are about 2mm longer than 2X123's. I wouldn't cut the spring you have, I'd try another spring, just in case it doesn't work.

probably not. i just slid two 150s into the light and it only leaves 1 mm of space at the end of the battery tube. if you pop the "switch mechanism" out of the tailcap, you will see that about 4 mm of black plastic has to slide into the battery tube so the metal ring will make contact with the flashlight body to turn on the light. the spring is not the problem, as you can compress it back until it all fits inside of the plastic quite easily. the plastic itself, pushes the batteries forward causing the ground disconnect. dave

FBA,
Considering the above response, what you may need is a longer spring.

chop, it is just my deduction from the feedack given so far.
cause i don't have the Pila battery but intend to get one.so need to know if it will work.
so can i say that the Pila don't work on the stock TL-3? unless the tail switch is modified ?

FBA,
I don't have a TL-3, but I have had problem getting Pilas to work in some of my lights and the problem has always been one of two things. The first is the button on top being much wider than they are on 123's. That's why I soldered a small button on top to give it a little extra reach. The second problem has been with springs. They either can't get around the thicker Pila bodies, or the length of the Pila screws them up.

First, you need to measure the inside diameter of you battery tube, with a caliper. Make sure that the 17mm diameter batts with comfortably fit. If they physically fit, I don't see why they can't be made to work. The 2X150 will be about 2mm longer than 3X123, so you should probably check this too.

If there is indeed a piece that interferes with the batts and pushes them up preventing negative contact, it sounds to me like you'll need a longer spring. If you get the Pila setup and you can't get it to work, I'm sure that you could move it on B/S/T. It's just hard to discuss a problem when you don't have the elements of the problem in hand, so to speak.

let me try to explain this better. you can put two of the Pila 150s batteries into the light and if you leave the tailcap off, use a piece of metal to connect the battery ground terminal to the flashlight body to light the light.
with that being the case, there is nothing wrong with the battery terminals being slightly different. the problem is NOT with the tailcap spring either.
the problem is when you screw the tailcap onto the light and push on the button to turn the light on. when you push the button (or twist the tailcap for constant on)it forces 4mm of plastic into the body of the light before the metal ring touches the body turning the light on.
that 4mm of plastic pushes the batteries forward which pushes the LED module forward off of it's grounding surface.
inside the head of the light is a large spring that holds the LED module down onto the ground seat. which is also the thermal path to the body for the LED heat. the relatively small spring on the tailcap fully compresses up into the switch assembly and is NOT part of the problem.
what we need is a clickie type switch so it will not push the batteries forward when operated.
hope this makes things a little clearer. now you see why i don't write instruction manuals. dave