Want to make a single AA 1.5V adjustable zoom/throw light with a XML-T60. Feasible?

Jayls5

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Oct 11, 2009
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For starters, I already have this:
http://www.dealextreme.com/p/xml-t60-1000lm-6300k-led-white-light-emitter-3-35v-3000ma-58355

And lights like these:
http://i.imgur.com/LgHaf.jpg
DX link: http://www.dealextreme.com/p/torch-...ree-q3-wc-130-lumen-led-flashlight-1-aa-29095

If it has a 600mA driver in it already, should I consider looking for a better driver? Assuming I get it to fit fine, what other issues can I expect to run into? The R2 I threw in these lights just isn't all that impressive... and if I am going to have crappy throw, it may as well be a lot brighter.
 

yazovyet

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Apr 9, 2011
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acordig ot cree bins (i use 700 mA since it is easier than 600):
so a Q3 run at 700 mA gives 175 lumens
r2 gives 213
and an XM-L T6 gives 280.

so over all you'd have a little more light (30% more than an r2). your throw might have a larger hot spot but i think it could end up being less intense since the XM-L has a larger surface area. personally i think a simple emitter swap to an XM-L would not be worth the cost and effort (and risk of screwing up the new LED).

If you put in a stronger driver then you have to worry about heatsinking.

Also you have to worry abut how much power the battery can put out, I think alkilines won't hold up under heavy load. and even a single eneloop can only put out around 9 watts. so after some driver inefficiency you will only get 8 or less watts to the LED. also, if you go with a driver with different mods the lesser modes will tend to be much less efficient than the max such that you cant have a low light for a long time feature. <edit> i suppose you are currently using about 2 watts plus driver inefficiency</edit>

last thing to say si that i found it difficult to find a driver that took 1AA input and put out over 1000mA. I was looking at 15mm and smaller drivers but there still wasn't a lot of (realativly) cheap options.
 
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Jayls5

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i would be upgrading from q3, so i feel it is worth it. i am decent at micro electronics work and have low temp heat guns to minimiz led damage... i try to follow the data sheet pretty well on heating. i am aware of the difficulty of finding decent 1.5v cirrcuits. do you know of any in particular off the top of your head that will certainly outperform the stocker 600ma the light comes with? i dislike stobe modes, and a single on on/off or a dimming 2 mode would rock.
 

yazovyet

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well, shinning beam has a 900mA that works on .9 to 1.7 volts in. i have that in one of my lights (that i just finished and havn't done a rightup on) but it is really hard to give you a decent idea of how much it really puts out since i have a high CRI XP-G in there (like a P2 bin? around 140 lumens rated at 700mA i think) and my other 2 lights use XM-Ls.

edit:
and 10 months after what appeared to be the last post, a new answer to a question that was never asked!
 
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OldNick

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You are not going to get some flame-thrower/war laser from a single 1.5V AA cell. Well you could but not with the same driver: you need a driver that bucks and gives more current. more current means that an AA will just not last any time.
 

fivemega

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When you power up mantioned LED at 3.35 volt and 1.5 Amp, total power is (3.35x1.5=5.025) watt.
Now to power up the same LED, at same power, using single AA cell, you will need (5.025/1.2=4.1875) Amps.
Assuming your driver is 100% efficiant (which is impossible), asking over 4 Amps from single alkaline AA is too much and not going to happened.
However, finding correct driver with little lower current (say 1 Amp) and using rechargeable AA such as Eneloop, might be possible.
 

Tiresius

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Can the batteries handle it? I never ran on primary alkalines with any lights that goes past 1a. XM-L in a zoomable/flood light needs quite a bit of amperage to throw similar to that of an XR-E emitter. Hence why they use XR-E emitters behind aspherics so commonly.

However, a flood light will be useful under an XM-L when driven at 1.4a.
 
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