New to P60s: Solarforce, McClicky, and drop in Questions

I figured my collection could use a P60 set up. I want a neutral 1 mode drop in that is bright as possible with out overdriving the LED too much. I was going to go with a 3.15A regulated 4000K XML neutral drop in by vinhnguyen54, is that a good choice? I plan on putting it in a 2011 Solarforce L2P and was going to try the stock switch and maybe purchase the McClicky kit to upgrade the switch. I also plan on getting the solarforce L2 S7 tailcap. My questions:

Does this sound like a good set up, would you make any changes?

Is that a good drive level for the XML? I want this thing to be as bright as possible for bursts of approximately 5 minutes or less, but I don't want to cook the LED either.

Is the McClicky kit necessary, will I notice a difference in the feel of the switch and/or the brightness? I read somewhere that the L2 S7 tailcap has a lot of resistance.

Will the McClicky kit install into the stock L2P solarforce switch or do I have to use a solarforce L2 S7 momentary/twist tactical switch?
EDIT: Seems that you can install the switch into a stock L2P, here is a post.

Thanks.

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maximum drive current for xm-l is 3.0 amps, over that is definitely going to cook it if you don't know what you are doing. vinhnguyen54's post starts in bolded red text for a reason. amperage this high is dangerous. start with a much lower driver for xm-l. and mcclickys are only useful if you are using a single-mode driver.

blicero said:

maximum drive current for xm-l is 3.0 amps, over that is definitely going to cook it if you don't know what you are doing. vinhnguyen54's post starts in bolded red text for a reason. amperage this high is dangerous. start with a much lower driver for xm-l. and mcclickys are only useful if you are using a single-mode driver.

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Thanks for the reply. I don't really want a spec driven light since most of my lights are multi mode lights that have good efficiency. I am looking for something that is pushing the limits slightly and will need to be monitored (i.e. not ran continuously for longer then ~5 mins), but not overdriven so hard that the emitter is going to fade after a few hours of non-continuous use.

As far as the drive amperage I figured 3.15A would be a good compromise between LED life and brightness as I won't be running this drop in for continuous amounts of time. I plan on getting a Zebralight SC600w and I would like my drop in set up to have more impressive lumens... I'll leave the efficiency and longevity to the ZL SC600w and my other lights. If it is worth it to drop it down to a 2.8A I will but I'd rather push this drop in a little further.

honestly 2.8 amps is already a good compromise between LED brightness and life/efficiency. 3.15 amps is as extreme as it gets. the maximum these leds are specced for is 3 amps, so 3.15 amps is seriously pushing it and you have to know that you're in for a world of trouble if you want to handle this much current.

I ordered that exact drop in from the same thread. your setup should be fine with the exception of the tailcap. Is it a new tailcap or old from solarforce? New one should handle the current, not sure about old one. Make sure to wrap head tightly in foil into the host head for good hear transfer. I am not worried about heat because i dont run my lights on high for long at all.

i say go for it. if you're only planning on using it for 5 mins max anyways.
whats the worst that can happen? you cook the drop-in? then get another, you wont be stopping at just 1 drop-in anyways :devil:

mcclicky is not neccessary either. give the solarforce switch a try, and then decide if you want the mcclicky.
for single mode, theres also the moddoo zero-resistance momentary switch sold at oveready. dont know if those will fit on the solarforce though.
you can just buy a surefire tailcap with your choice of switch installed, and use it with the solarforce too.

i believe the L2P and L2 come with reverse clickies, mcclickies are foward clickies, and the action is soft and responsive. there are also hard-press mcclickies too.

i went with a 2.8 amp driven XM-L. i wanted to run it on the safer side. and also, i dont think ill notice the lumens difference.

if you want bright, theres are triple and quad LED drop-ins too :thumbsup:

First of all, thanks for the guidance blicero, dirtech, and skyfire.

dirtech said:

I ordered that exact drop in from the same thread. your setup should be fine with the exception of the tailcap. Is it a new tailcap or old from solarforce? New one should handle the current, not sure about old one. Make sure to wrap head tightly in foil into the host head for good hear transfer. I am not worried about heat because i dont run my lights on high for long at all.

Click to expand...

The tailcap would be from the new 2011 solarforce L2p host. I was considering some copper foil wrap but figured an extremely tight aluminum foil wrap with a tight fit would be sufficient for heat management. I also liked the L2 S7 solarforce tailcap for the momentary only UI that it provided and constant twist on (I don't have a light that is considered by some to be "true tactical UI" or even a 1 mode light for that matter).

skyfire said:

i say go for it. if you're only planning on using it for 5 mins max anyways.
whats the worst that can happen? you cook the drop-in? then get another, you wont be stopping at just 1 drop-in anyways :devil:

mcclicky is not neccessary either. give the solarforce switch a try, and then decide if you want the mcclicky.
for single mode, theres also the moddoo zero-resistance momentary switch sold at oveready. dont know if those will fit on the solarforce though.
you can just buy a surefire tailcap with your choice of switch installed, and use it with the solarforce too.

i believe the L2P and L2 come with reverse clickies, mcclickies are foward clickies, and the action is soft and responsive. there are also hard-press mcclickies too.

i went with a 2.8 amp driven XM-L. i wanted to run it on the safer side. and also, i dont think ill notice the lumens difference.

if you want bright, theres are triple and quad LED drop-ins too :thumbsup:

Click to expand...

This is basically how I am thinking. The only difference is I figured I could try 3.15A to get an extra 100-200 lumens. The 2011 Solarforce L2Ps come with a forward clicky. I've heard good things about the McClickys and I'd prefer the switch of my set up to be a more sensitive soft press switch, rather then the hardpress McClicky. I like the McClicky because I could replace it myself and it has an excelent track record from what I've read. If I go this route I think I will wait and see how the stock solarforce clicky performs before I invest in the McClicky (or not.... this forum seems to encourage purchases).

Okay, a couple of things you might want to know.
First the switch that comes with the L2P is a 3-amp switch. It may, or may not, handle anything higher than 3 amps.
The S9 switch will do 5 amps.
Second, I am not at all certain that the extra over-current is actually going to yield you the extra 100-200 lumens that you expect. As the LED gets hotter, the output sags due to loss of efficiency. I have some doubts if you'll have any benefits for many seconds after turn-on.
Third, even if you do get the 100-200 lumens you expect, at that output level of around 750 lumens output is only 1 db or maybe 1..5 db brighter than if you didn't try for overcurrent.
And 1-1.5 db is a barely noticeable difference to the human eye.
Is all this worth it for a speculated output increase that you probably/maybe would never even be able to see the increase?

TyJo,
I think the L2P with S7 tail is as great setup, but I'm not a fan of the OEM L2P tail. The 2.8A XM-L I made ran good and warm so I can imagine what the 3.15A will do.

I suggest using copper tape to wrap the drop in for a tight fit if you push the XM-L that hard. PM me your mailing address and I can drop a foot or so in an envelope for you if you want.

BTW: You'll want the Thermal Injection, the one I made overheated in minutes without it but was great after I potted it.

twl said:

Is all this worth it for a speculated output increase that you probably/maybe would never even be able to see the increase?

Click to expand...

I understand how we perceive brightness and it probably isn't worth it if all I am going to get is a 50 lumen difference that I won't notice. Would 3A be good? I'll have to think about it.

think2x said:

TyJo,
I think the L2P with S7 tail is as great setup, but I'm not a fan of the OEM L2P tail. The 2.8A XM-L I made ran good and warm so I can imagine what the 3.15A will do.

I suggest using copper tape to wrap the drop in for a tight fit if you push the XM-L that hard. PM me your mailing address and I can drop a foot or so in an envelope for you if you want.

BTW: You'll want the Thermal Injection, the one I made overheated in minutes without it but was great after I potted it.

Click to expand...

Thank you very much. PM sent.

blicero said:

mcclickys are only useful if you are using a single-mode driver.

Click to expand...

Depends on your use. Reverse clickys are best when you prefer to select modes after activation. Latch it on, then off/on to change. Forward clickys are best when you prefer to select modes before activation. Momentary on/off to the desired mode, then latch when you're ready.

I upgraded almost ALL my tailcaps with McClicky's and OR McClicky mod... Lesser resistance, high amperage tolerance and awesome clicking feel does it for me... Solarforce new 3A switches seem nice but also - cheap... IMHO... it's a matter of personal preference... but both of McClicky and Solarforce new 3A are forward clicky anyway...

You should get one McClicky and try it... really, in this P60 lego hobby everything is try-and-error... you may like what others dislike... and you have endless possibilities, from cheap stuff to ultra high quality like Oveready stuff...

As for XML... I bought Direct Drive just for fun but for everyday carry I use linear 2.8A XML that seems to be little over heat edge for this format... you may want to get some beefier bezels for better cooling (Cryos as top one, FiveMega has his own design but even Solarforce A001 has more mass and more surface than Surefire Z44 or Solarforce L2 series and it seems better for heat dissipation - longer runtime... I bought Nailbender high voltage XML that pushes LED at 2.8A and I'm hoping my Cryos in C2 will be enough to keep it in safe temp for as long as the batteries can run... Anything above 2.8A is a waste of energy (unless you wanted one just for show off, in that case Direct Drive would be the best - and EXTREMELY DANGEROUS !!!)