Sunwayman V20a VS. Nitecore IFD2 / Comparison

Cunha

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For Christmas I bought 2 each of these two lights for me and my family members. I knew what features I wanted and figured I'd try out both lights. Waiting for their arrival..

At first I didn't realize the sunwayman didn't have a strobe feature. I just assumed it would since they were from the same parent company...no biggie though.

The question I have for you pro's regards the stated runtime of the two lights.

Nitecore IFD2 is listed at 80 hours at .5 lumen and 40 minutes at 260 lumens
Sunwayman V20A is listed at 100 hours at 1 lumen and 2 hours at 210 lumens

One would think the IFD2 at .5 lumens would last longer than the V20A at 1 lumen, but the stated numbers don't show that.

Maybe the companies use different standards to measure the runtime of their lights? What are the real internal differences that would make these similar lights perform so differently?

I'm perplexed..and then the V20A anniversary model with the XML-R5 adds to the confusion with its stated maximum brightness on standard AA's being lower than the standard V20A on an XPG-R5. What gives?
 
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Bigmac_79

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I can't say for certain, because I haven't done runtime tests on all the lights you mention, but I can give my best guess.

It's true that many companies use different standards in how they state their run time. For instance, some state the time until the light reaches 50% of the initial output, some state the time until 10% of initial output, and some state the time until the light is completely off (even if it was at 2% of the initial output for the last 10 hours). Also, to complicated things a little more, it looks like Sunwayman has recently changed their standards in reporting lumens and runtime measurements. I can't remember where for sure, but somewhere in their sub-forum of the cpf marketplace they said they were basically going to start using a higher standard on their specs. So, while the V20A AE is listed as having a lower max than the standard V20A (on primaries), it may be that it is actually putting out more light but being held to a higher standard. Or it may really have a lower max, in favor of increased run time.

As for the difference between the TFD2 and the V20A, if the stated specs for both really are accurate (you can search for reviews of them to try to find out), then my best guess would be that the V20A is more efficient than the IFD2. Magnetic control rings use more power to run than a standard clicky, and it could be that Nitecore just didn't do quite as well at minimizing that power. The difference wouldn't be much on higher outputs, but on the lower outputs the power used to for the control ring circuit would make more of a difference.

Hope this helps!
 

Cunha

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Yeah I really appreciate your input. The nitecore website shows a graph of the IFD2 runtime and it is basically completely flat until it plummets. I wonder if the V20A is the same way.

I guess I'll stick with my order. I like the knurled surfaces on the IFD2 better than the V20A and I've been dying to get these two lights side by side for a while now. I'm guessing that nightcore will release a new model soon with the XML since the IFD2 is in its "past models" section and has been for a while.

Another issue is that the V20A anniversary lists a maximum brightness when powered by a single lithium battery. I plan on running my lights with 2x energizer lithium "ultimate" AA's..I have like 500 of them. I wonder how the Regular V20A's maximum output compares to the anniversary with XML when running on lithiums.

This is sort of a newbie type of question, but are there drop ins available for either of these lights? It would be pretty cool to be able to just pop in an XML when I start to feel ancy..
 

Cunha

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How about this..if the IFD2, V20A, and V20A AE cost the same amount of money, which one would you get and why? Assuming the AE isn't "rare" or anything like that..just a regular V20a with an XML.
 

Bigmac_79

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The V20A AE has a higher max when used with a single lithium-ion, not a lithium battery. Lithium-ion batteries (li-ion) are 4.2 volts fully charged, and that's why the V20A AE can only handle a single one. Your lithium energizers are 1.5 volts each, so 3 volts together. Regular alkaline batteries are 1.2 volts each. So, most likely, the energizer lithiums might get a little extra brightness from the V20A AE, but not the full brightness available with a single li-ion.

As for my personal preference, I would get the V20A AE, even if it wasn't rare. I like the option to take a li-ion for the extra brightness, and I like the looks better. Also, the fact that it's rare is really work considering, it will have a higher re-sell value if you want to sell it in the future.
 

NoFair

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The V20A has better color rendition than other cooler leds. Without the yellowish tint often seen with other neutral leds.
 

Cunha

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NoFair do you mean the V20A AE with XML neutral or the regular V20A with XPG?

Thanks for the input guys. Are there drop ins for any of these lights? Or does the ring control make it difficult?
 

Bigmac_79

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Sorry, forgot to answer that part earlier. I'm pretty sure there are no dropins for these.
 

NoFair

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NoFair do you mean the V20A AE with XML neutral or the regular V20A with XPG?

Thanks for the input guys. Are there drop ins for any of these lights? Or does the ring control make it difficult?

XM-L Neutral V20A AE. My XP-G V10R has a normal cool white tint, no green etc, but not as good at color rendition as the neutral XM-L in the AE.

No drop ins, but it is possible (often difficult) to change the emitter if something a lot better comes along than the XM-L
 

visigoth

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Question: is there any advantage to running a V20A with a 14500 + dummy cell, instead of a pair of Eneloops? (I have the normal V20A on order, with XP-G.) Will it be brighter? Last longer? Explode?
 

NoFair

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It is brighter, but runtimes will be a lot shorter on high when compared to using 2 eneloops. If you want max brightness and highest possible runtimes using a 14670 li-ion and a cr123 sized dummy battery is the best solution. I've tried it, but prefer the shorter V10R and V10A.

AW sells everything you need.
 

visigoth

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Thanks! I think I'll stick with the Eneloops. (That was the point of this flashlight -- runtime. For waking up the neighbors, I have a Solarforce L2T with a Manafont Ultrafire 3-mode XM-L drop-in.)
 

visigoth

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Actually, now you have me intrigued with the 14670 combination. What sort of increase in brightness did you achieve? And what kind of hit in runtime?

I would think a CR123 would be too thick for that flashlight, no? Or so you just mean a dummy the same length?
 

kkeyser

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At first I didn't realize the sunwayman didn't have a strobe feature. I just assumed it would since they were from the same parent company...no biggie though.

Just a minor point, but sunwayman and nitecore are not from the same parent company. Nitecore and Jetbeam are under the same company, sysmax, if I remember correctly.
 

NoFair

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Actually, now you have me intrigued with the 14670 combination. What sort of increase in brightness did you achieve? And what kind of hit in runtime?

I would think a CR123 would be too thick for that flashlight, no? Or so you just mean a dummy the same length?

Runtime with a 14670 is 50% longer than with a 14500 li-ion. Brightness when using a li-ion of good quality should be about 450ish. On max this will drain the 14670 in less than 30 minutes (the light draws about 2A on max). If you run the light at low and medium brightness levels runtimes should be about the same as when using 2 AA NiMH batteries.

A cr123 is a bit too thick for the tube, so the easiest solution would probably be to cut the dummy 14500 down to the correct length.
 

visigoth

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Just wanted to clarify: I think we're talking about two different emitters here. Your experiment with a 14670 was with the XML version, no? (I have the original XP-G.)
 

NoFair

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Done it with 2 xp-g heads and one xm-l head. Same V20A body though. Both types draw about 2A from a good li-ion, but the XM-L is quite a bit brighter at that current level. So 450ish would be for a XM-L
 

visigoth

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Ah, right. I'll in fact be interested to see whether I get a significant boost from li-ion with this light. (I have some 14500s on order.)

Since you've had a chance to compare them directly, which do you find has the nicer beam: the XP-G or the XM-L? Tint doesn't matter so much: I've managed to make this pretty nice with an amber filter. Just wondering whether I want to replace the emitter down the line...
 

NoFair

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The XM-L is quite a bit floodier and is, imho, better indoors. Outdoors I prefer the tighter beam from the XP-G. Both beams are good and smooth, so it is mostly a matter of flood vs. throw. Not sure how the normal tints are since the 2 I currently own are both neutral white (xp-g was modded before I got it).
 

jonocom

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Does anyone know if Nitecore IFD2 will run on 1x 14500 battery (same as V20A)??
 
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