This thread is about eight simple, easy-to-make, under $20 lightboxes for estimating relative outputs and lumens. I'll start with the Clorox bottle and post more if there's interest. Am doing this project anyway but thought I'd share because your posts have been so helpful to me. So thank you all for that.
I've always liked flashlights but never spent more than $30 for one until a few weeks ago when I bought two unbranded lights that were advertised to be 1200 lumens. Unfortunately when I compared them to my Dorcy they didn't seem any brighter. So did some research and found this site which gave me the knowledge to make more informed decisions. Now my problem is not overdoing it with all the holiday sales!
Nothing new here... just applying what I've learned as a lurker and trying to make it work. All the typical disclaimers about these not being in the same league as a calibrated integrating sphere apply.
Here are eight quick and dirty lightbox "models" and the flashlights I own so far to compare. Bought a Mastech LX1010B digital 0 - 50,000 Lux Luxmeter on Amazon for $15.57 total, which leaves $4.42 for remaining supplies to keep each lightbox under $20.
Lightbox Models
1. Clorox Bottle
2. 2" 90 Degree PVC Elbow
3. 2" 45 Degree PVC Elbow & Shoebox
4. Room (ceiling bounce)
5. White Plastic 50 lb Icemelt Pail
6. Styrofoam Cooler
7. Milk Carton
8. Paper Mache Sphere
Flashlights
1. EagleTac D25A Mini
2. Thrunite TN12
3. Maelstrom X10
4. Fenix TK35
5. Dorcy 41-4289 200 Lumen Cree LED
6. Maglite XL200
First up is the Clorox bottle, 1.42 gallon size. Thought this would be interesting because it's white (with a slight blue tint) and the sensor can be mounted in the higher neck eliminating the need for a baffle. Might eventually coat the inside with flat white housepaint but for now will go with it as is. Shined my TN12 into the bottle and saw it needed to be wrapped in aluminum foil which I then wrapped in duct tape for durability. Used painters tape to secure the sensor because it comes off easier.
For now will limit my analyses to linear (first order) regression and scatterplots. Here's what I have on this one:
I've always liked flashlights but never spent more than $30 for one until a few weeks ago when I bought two unbranded lights that were advertised to be 1200 lumens. Unfortunately when I compared them to my Dorcy they didn't seem any brighter. So did some research and found this site which gave me the knowledge to make more informed decisions. Now my problem is not overdoing it with all the holiday sales!
Nothing new here... just applying what I've learned as a lurker and trying to make it work. All the typical disclaimers about these not being in the same league as a calibrated integrating sphere apply.
Here are eight quick and dirty lightbox "models" and the flashlights I own so far to compare. Bought a Mastech LX1010B digital 0 - 50,000 Lux Luxmeter on Amazon for $15.57 total, which leaves $4.42 for remaining supplies to keep each lightbox under $20.
Lightbox Models
1. Clorox Bottle
2. 2" 90 Degree PVC Elbow
3. 2" 45 Degree PVC Elbow & Shoebox
4. Room (ceiling bounce)
5. White Plastic 50 lb Icemelt Pail
6. Styrofoam Cooler
7. Milk Carton
8. Paper Mache Sphere
Flashlights
1. EagleTac D25A Mini
2. Thrunite TN12
3. Maelstrom X10
4. Fenix TK35
5. Dorcy 41-4289 200 Lumen Cree LED
6. Maglite XL200
First up is the Clorox bottle, 1.42 gallon size. Thought this would be interesting because it's white (with a slight blue tint) and the sensor can be mounted in the higher neck eliminating the need for a baffle. Might eventually coat the inside with flat white housepaint but for now will go with it as is. Shined my TN12 into the bottle and saw it needed to be wrapped in aluminum foil which I then wrapped in duct tape for durability. Used painters tape to secure the sensor because it comes off easier.
For now will limit my analyses to linear (first order) regression and scatterplots. Here's what I have on this one:
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