Pelican 1910 & 1920 Review

A friend of mine was recently invited to take a tour of Pelican's facilities while he was out in Cali. During his visit, they provided him w/some goodies of which I asked to borrow the 1910 and 1920 so that I may review them as I was curious as to their performance. Read on to see what I think of them.


MFG SPECS



PACKAGING
I was only provided with part of the packaging for the 1910 but I believe both come in the typical soft cardboard exterior w/the lights cradled in a inner plastic shell.



DESIGN / FEATURES
In keeping with the penlight theme, both lights offer a petite profile with a clip that allows it to be held in place in a shirt or other pocket. The head and body are one single piece with only the tailcap and clip being removable.


There is a smooth reflector behind a polycarbonate lens that does a fairly good job of producing a decent mix of hot spot and flood:


The lights share identical designs in that the theme is 5 fluted flat surfaces spaced evenly around the head/body/tail of which all can be aligned perfectly depending on how tight/loose the tailcap is threaded on:


There are three etchings on the body with the manufacturer name and model featured prominently on a flat surface on the body and a polarity indicator and strangely a "Do not dispose in trash" logo:


The tailcaps contain foward clicky switches which allow momentary use. The rubber boot features small nodules to provide for aesthetics and some additional texture but as it protrudes out a bit and isn't perfectly flat, the lights are non-tailstandable:


The threads are neither anodized nor square-cut, nor was there any grease applied. This does contribute to a very moderate friction feel during threading but nothing bad, just not the silky smooth feeling I'm accustomed to w/anodized threads. Also, given the lack of anodization on the threads on both the tube and tailcap, the battery must be removed in order to prevent accidental operation of the light.


I had a heckuva time putting the clip back on thanks to user error as I failed to notice that there is a little notch on both the tube and clip to prevent the clip from spinning freely. I thought this was a nice touch since it allows one to easily clip the light without needing to realign the clip due to it shifting:


While the clip can be used reversed to attach the lights to the brim of hat, it's not the most secure grip but should suffice in a pinch for the 1910 (the 1920 is a bit long and not balanced when mounted this way):



SIZE

From L to R: Energizer AAA | Zebralight H501 | Fenix L0D | Pelican 1910 | Fenix LD10 | Sunwayman V10A | Icon Link | Pelican 1920

Given the additional length the forward clicky switch adds, these aren't exactly the smallest AAA form factor lights out there but they aren't over-sized either. Here is a pic of both in an average-sized shirt pocket:

1920 on left had to be angled a bit to accomodate full length (you can see the tip bulging out the bottom of the pocket) while the 1910 fit very nicely without any issues.

Other than the length, both lights are identical in overall diameter, in which case, the head (.66in/16.8mm) is just slightly larger than the body (.57in/14.7mm) and tail (.62/15.9mm).


FIT & FINISH
This is my first exposure to Pelican products and overall I find them to be really well made. All engravings were very sharp and flawless and likewise with the anodized finishing in which the tailcaps matched the bodies/heads:

(flash intentionally used to help expose any mismatch in anodizing but none were noted)

I did notice that the LED was not centered on the 1910 (L) but pretty much dead-on in the 1920 (R):

This did contribute to some minor flaws with the hotspot on the 1910.

Peering down the tubes, I noted that there is no spring on the anode (head) side:

The only thing that keeps the batteries in place are the springs in the tailcap. I was able to easily induce battery rattle w/the 1920 by shaking it w/sideways motions (perpendicular to the tube) but not so w/the 1910.

About the only thing I can really nit pick on is the lack of anodizing on the tail threads but then that would really be more of a feature complaint and not one of fit and finish. If anything, the off-centered LED is something to keep an eye out for.


UI
The UI is very straight forward on each given that there is but a single mode. However, given this fact coupled with the forward clicky switch, the lights can be used for signaling purposes without worries of changing levels.


RUNTIME
Based on my revised runtime approach, I generally attempt to test mfg claims against whatever methodology they use. In this case, Pelican has listed the runtime on Alkaline batteries according to ANSI FL1 standards (time until output drops below 10% of initial output measured 30 seconds after light was first turned on). However, as those who read my reviews will come to know, I'm not fond of primaries and thus almost exclusively use rechargeables thus I ran these tests on various NiMh AAA's (fully charged right before testing).






Axis: X = Time in Min and Y = Relative Output

So what's the story here? I think the most obvious would be that the Tenergy's are just poor performers especially given their claim of 1000 mAh capacity (which the Sanyo's are also rated at). To be fair, they are older batteries purchased > 2 yrs ago (but then again, so were the Sanyo's). In spite of this, for the 1910 I was able to match or exceed mfg claims using NiMh (slightly longer runtimes can be expected on Alkaline and especially Lithium batteries).

With the 1920, the runtimes fall just short of claims but again, keep in mind that those were conducted w/Alkaline and these are with NiMh so I do expect those claims to be accurate.


TINT & BEAM PROFILE
Looks like there is a bit of a tint lottery going on as the 1910 features a very nice neutral white, albeit the beam is slightly impacted as the LED was off-center, whereas the 1920's tint is noticeably more green NEW 1/2/12:

This shot was taken on a wall that is very light grey and it was very hard to get a good compromise in terms of the white-balance but in reality, the 1920 (R) is a bit more green and cool whereas the 1910 (L) while having a slight greenish hot spot, emits a relatively neutral white. The indoor shots below does a pretty good represenation of the tints on these samples.


INDOOR SHOTS NEW 1/2/12
1910


1920


For details of the shots and comparo vs. many other lights, check here.


CONCLUSION
My first and only AAA light is a Fenix L0D and I used it as my EDC for a short while. Over time, it had fallen out of favor due to the form factor (or so I thought) but after having played around with the 1910, it made me realize it wasn't so much the form factor but rather that I didn't like twisties. For me personally, nothing beats a well made clicky. Understandably, this adds to the overall size of a light a little but I feel it's a worthwhile compromise. Another thing I noticed is that given the smaller diameter vs. my ZL SC30 (current EDC), the 1910 doesn't protrude out of my pocket as much. I am able to shove it to the extreme corner of a pocket and not even notice that it's there especially when seated New 1/1/12:


Last but not least, after having tested some really bright lights of late, given the sub-100lms claim of these lights, I really wasn't expecting much in terms of output but I ended up impressed nontheless (especially with the 1910).

New 1/1/12: Here are shots of the two in actual use while I was helping a friend with an oil change:

1910 (L) | 1920 (R)

There is no fancy UI, multi/variable-modes or a focusable beam. These are just pure and simple "light here, light now" utility lights that should live up to some hard use and if they somehow don't, I just learned that Pelican offers a Lifetime Guarantee on their products which should provide their owners a good peace of mind.

Nice review and some great photos.

I had the same problem with the emitter being off-center on the Pelican 1910 that I purchased, but the emitter on the one I bought was much further off-center than yours. So much so that it gave off a half-moon beam pattern so I ended up returning it.

Well done review - the charts hit the spot for instant gratification. Thanks!

Thx guys!

@HIDblue - It's a shame about the LED centering. I'm not sure what the QC process entails but checking if a LED is centered should be standard procedure for any lights since it's integral to their performance. I'll pass along this feedback to my friend for him to feed on to Pelican.

I also added some new pics and material (search 1/1/12), indoor shots should be up later tonight.

Cheers,
Tim

turboBB said:

Thx guys!

@HIDblue - It's a shame about the LED centering. I'm not sure what the QC process entails but checking if a LED is centered should be standard procedure for any lights since it's integral to their performance. I'll pass along this feedback to my friend for him to feed on to Pelican.

I also added some new pics and material (search 1/1/12), indoor shots should be up later tonight.

Cheers,
Tim

Click to expand...

Yeah, it's especially odd since I previously had both Pelican 7060 and 8060 lights and the emitters were perfectly centered on both. Maybe just an off batch...or made on a Friday/Monday shift.

First & excellent review of the new year. turboBB! Your photos are very fine as well. :thumbsup:

Thanks a lot.

Thx Candlelamp!

I've added the indoor shots as well as some additional material pics and have concluded this review.

Cheers,
Tim

Do you know why there's so much jitter in the runtime graphs? It should be a smooth line if the test was conducted in a controlled environment.

I don't believe these lights are regulated, also, I do not have an IS and the method I use to conduct runtime testing is with the light right up against the sensor so it'll detect every little subtle variation and that's what you're seeing (albeit at 2 min interval for the 1910 and 5 min for the 1920). However, the environment is relatively stable temp wise.

There have only been a few lights I've tested that offer perfect tabletop flat regulation.

Cheers,
Tim

That's interesting, I would recommend not shining it directly on the sensor, as well as keeping lux readings low. Unless PWM is used, resulting graphs should be smooth.

This is what I got for the 1920: http://www.led-resource.com/wordpress/wp-content/uploads/2011/10/1920_Runtime.png

Thx Robin (and great review by the way!), if there's one thing to know about me, it's that I'm a stickler for good data. Thus I like to show the graphs as it is regardless whether or not these swings are visible to the eye or not.

As for keeping lux readings low, that is addressed by a multi-fold tissue acting as a filter so ultimately the lux readings are relative since all lights in my recent tests are conducted this way. I find this emulates an IS in a way since the sensor is actually not receiving direct light and I have noticed that throwers don't necessarily have higher lux just because the hotspot is targeted at the middle of the sensor. The filter acts as a diffuser and I've noticed that my higher output lights (XM-L's) will put out higher readings than lower output throwers (XR-E's). But I do appreciate your feedback though.

Cheers,
Tim

Thx mate！I'm plan to purchase pelican 4300n which will be used to dive and catch crabs. Unfortunately I found a bad review here for tenergy rechargeable battery. So I need to find another brand which have a real C cell NiMh rechargeable battery with large and reliable capacity instead of Energy. Any recommendation will be appreciated.

Thx and welcome to the forum hjjaleon! I unfortunately don't personally use any C cells so can't make any recommendations. However, based on my experiences w/the D cells, I find the AccuPower Evolution cells to be quite good so you might consider looking for some reviews on that brand.

You might want to try posting your question on the Flashlight Electronics - Batteries Included section or even the Dive lighting sub forum.

Cheers,
Tim

TURBOBB-
I am very interested in the 1920, when you were changing the oil of the car, was the 1920 too bright? i want to use it for work, but not if im going to be blinded at up close work. also the lights are not regulated? what does that mean and is it real bad? thanks alot for the review, ive been searching youtube for too long and still have not found a single review

Hi TT,

I no longer have these lights so am recalling from memory but I think it would depend on how dark adapted your eyes are vs. the available ambiet lighting. The shots were taken outdoors in bright sunlight so it wasn't a problem at all, however, indoors and under poor lighting, it might be a little bit on the bright side (but again, really depends on your own vision as well too).

Ultimately I don't feel the hotspot is so intense as to cause problems. Having used a bunch of my lights while doing routine mainteance on various cars, I do find it very handy to have a beam profile that still has a hotspot in it in case I want to see something further away or down in the engine compartment.

As for regulation, it means that the light will put out a constant output regardless of the state of charge in the battery (unless it's not sufficient to power the light). So if it light is claimed to output 100 lumens and is perfectly regulated, it is expected to maintain that ouptut throughout the entire run of the battery before dropping off sharply (or just shutting off abruptly). Take a look at the G10v2 runtime as an example of this. Many find this appealing as whenever they turn on their lights (and provided the batteries still have sufficient charge) they know exactly what output to expect.

Now contrast those charts with the ones above and you will see that the output of both the 1910/1920 will gradually decrease for the majority of the run before dropping off more sharply as the batteries become depleted. In practical terms though, most of our eyes would not be sensitive enough to notice an appreciable drop in output for say the first 120 mintues or so (of the 1920). It's only when it starts falling off sharply that the drop will become obvious.

So what does that mean for you? My take is that if you can live with the two hours of relative constant brightness before needing to replace/recharge the batteries then you shouldn't worry that the 1920 isn't regulated.

I believe Robin24k still has these lights so you might want to reach out to him for his feedback as well.

Cheers,
Tim

*I have been edc ing my 1910 now for about 3 months and am very happy with it. It replaced my streamlight that i carried for many years.

I've been watching this thread hoping for more info. What tasks have you use your light for? The light being unregulated does not bother you? I've had my eye on the new streamlight pro tac 2 aaa, fenix ld05, 5.11 atac 2aaa. But I'm gla you happy with the light.

I've been watching this thread hoping for more info. What tasks have you use your light for? The light being unregulated does not bother you? I've had my eye on the new streamlight pro tac 2 aaa, fenix ld05, 5.11 atac 2aaa. But I'm gla you happy with the light.

*I am a general contractor and use a light multiple times a day during work. The reason i like the 1910 is its size, when clipped in a front pocket to the side, you do not even know it is there, it puts out more then enough light, has a good run time and has a single stage click switch for one handed operation. It seems to me to be well built and a tuff little light at that. Fits my use perfect. I have the old and new microstream, ldo1 and a preon 1, the 1910 is the light i carry everyday.

tacticaltony said:

I've been watching this thread hoping for more info. What tasks have you use your light for? The light being unregulated does not bother you? I've had my eye on the new streamlight pro tac 2 aaa, fenix ld05, 5.11 atac 2aaa. But I'm gla you happy with the light.

Click to expand...

I work in the oilfield at a CO2 reinjection plant. We work 12 hour shifts Day/Night. I clip my 1920 through the button hole on my shirt pocket on the outside and let it hang freely. i click it on when i have to walk across areas where it is dark and use the momentary function to check guages and fluid levels at night. i was the first operator here to buy and use one and now we have more than ten people using them because of their compact versatlity and output. I also have several other pelican twisties c-cell and d-cell that are now collecting dust in my locker because this is the only light i will use.