Quark Mini X 123 vs. Quark Mini 123

ScaryFatKidGT

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Does anyone own both of these? I'm wondering if 30 lumens is worth it? On the 123^2's the X's throw about the same as the XP-G's because there so much brighter but with the Mini's its only 30 lumens so will the Mini X have any throw at all? The other problem is that IDK if I would like the 1.2 lumen low of the Mini X or the 3 lumen low of the Mini. The X also costs $10 more.

I'm looking for a really small bright light and these 2 are a little bit smaller than some AA lights. The Fenix PD10 is thinner but shorter.
 

GordoJones88

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I also want the Quark MiniX (2.3").
But I got an Olight i1 XML (2.5") on sale.
They are nearly the same.
I run it with AW Protected 16340s and AW IMR16340s for max output.
Here is the most recent SelfBuilt review data.
He hasn't done a MiniX.


ED10-FL1-Summary2.gif




WK21-MaxRCR.gif
 
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ScaryFatKidGT

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I'm looking at the Olight too but its only 180 lumens like the regular Quark Mini which is XP-G and $38

If that Xtar wasn't huge id be all over that. Id also get the PD10 if it wasn't over $50.
 
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brandocommando

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I have one of the first versions of the MiniX 123. There were only like 80 or 100 of them made IIRC, It has a 3.5 lumen low with a 40 hour run time, instead of the normal 1.2 lumen low with a 100 hour run time...

I run mine on a LiFePO4 that is around 3.3V. I have also tried a 4.2V RCR123 in it, (not recommended,) but it's pretty impressive!
 
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ScaryFatKidGT

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LOL Well what should I get Olight, quark XP-G or quark XM-L? I want SMALL and bright on max, all of these fit the bill.
 
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BirdofPrey

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Having one and my dad having the other I'll throw my observation in. The MiniX is awesome for 30 or 40 yards and under. Pure wall of light on high. If you are going to try to look further than that, the 123 will seem brighter (by a very noticeable margin I might add) for that usage.
 

GordoJones88

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Now I'm confused those lumen ratings are all over?

RCR123 is a 4.2 volt rechargeable Lithium Ion (Li-Ion) battery, also known as a 16340.

A CR123 is a 3.0 volt non-rechargeable Lithium battery which is usually what the manufactures say is safe to use.

The higher voltage battery will make the light brighter, hotter, and possibly shorten the LED life.

Here are the most recent non-rechargeable CR123 3.0v battery lumens, lux, and runtimes.

ED10-FL1-Summary1.gif


WK21-HiCR123A.gif
 
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ScaryFatKidGT

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Having one and my dad having the other I'll throw my observation in. The MiniX is awesome for 30 or 40 yards and under. Pure wall of light on high. If you are going to try to look further than that, the 123 will seem brighter (by a very noticeable margin I might add) for that usage.
Ok thanks I might like the XP-G more then.

THERE we go! Before he just posted the RCR graph so I was confused

Heck both graphs still show the Olight and Jetbeam whopping the Quark in light output :/. I wonder how the Fenix PD10 would compare.
 
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ScaryFatKidGT

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And on the CR123A graph the i1 is only on MEDIUM wow? But I bet the jetbeam still out throws it even if you put the i1 on high.

Sigh what started as Quark vs. Quark and maybe i1 has now turned in to Quark vs. Quark vs. F PD10 vs. E15 vs. i1 vs. BC10 and trying to convince my self $70 for the Zebra light is way to much money lol. Id be all over the BC10 if it have a lower mode and was a little smaller like the rest I like the XP-G's throw and beam pattern but the XM-L has more output and seems to give more battery life.
 

GordoJones88

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And on the CR123A graph the i1 is only on MEDIUM wow?
But I bet the jetbeam still out throws it even if you put the i1 on high.

The i1 Med must be a typo.
I got the i1 last week, and the BC10 is on it's way from China.
The Quark MiniX and Olight i1 XML do have a greenish corona tint.

If you are looking for small EDC lights,
I would suggest the Quark Neutral-white MiniX at 2.3" for flood.
And then the JetBeam BC10 XPG 3.7" for throw.
They are all going to be brighter with RCR123s.
 

yellow

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I have an X neutral 2*123.
While not owning one, I am pretty certain that the "reduced" brightness - if one can spot it! - of the XP-G model, with its smaller spot, easily outshines the "X" on throw.
The "X" makes a very broad beam.

PS: now I would order a normal version, as I really dislike the color of that "neutral"
 

ScaryFatKidGT

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The iTP A1 uses an XP-E Q5 and puts out 190lm vs the i1 with the XM-l at 180lm. Are there original lumen ratings accurate or inflated? Cuz if there true I'm getting the A1. I'm sure the i3 would be brighter with a RCR123 but more lumens and better throw (even better than an XP-G) with a CR123 in basically the same light is nice.

And the A1 SS uses an XP-E R2 for 203lm I think I'm guna get one of those.
 
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GordoJones88

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The iTP A1 uses an XP-E Q5 and puts out 190lm vs the i1 with the XM-l at 180lm.
Are there original lumen ratings accurate or inflated?

Yes, the old numbers are different.

On the back of the package of my Olight i1 it says:
LED emitter: 280 lumens
Out the Front (OTF) : 180 lumens

Out the Front is like the ANSI FL-1 standards manufactures are switching to.

XML will be the brightest and floodiest.
XPE will have more throw, but not as bright.

Either way, I'm really happy with how small it fits in my pocket on it's clip.
I am a little disappointed in the XML greenish tint though.
But on a fresh RCR123 it's very bright in the dark woods.
 

ScaryFatKidGT

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Yes, the old numbers are different.

On the back of the package of my Olight i1 it says:
LED emitter: 280 lumens
Out the Front (OTF) : 180 lumens

Out the Front is like the ANSI FL-1 standards manufactures are switching to.

XML will be the brightest and floodiest.
XPE will have more throw, but not as bright.

Either way, I'm really happy with how small it fits in my pocket on it's clip.
I am a little disappointed in the XML greenish tint though.
But on a fresh RCR123 it's very bright in the dark woods.
So are you saying the iTP numbers (190 and 203) are emitter lumens?
 
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