Anyone had a problem with the Jetbeam RRT-0?

So I'm looking at the Jetbeam RRT-0, seems like a really neat light. I've dug up all the info I can find on this forum, and some people seem to be complaining that Jetbeam's quality has gone down recently. I've seen the complaints about preflash and lettering on knurling, which I think they've fixed by now. My question is this: how many of you have had this light actually fail in your use? I don't mind giving up some battery power for a neat dimmer system that recognizes different batteries, but if this added complexity makes the light too unreliable, I'd think twice. Would any of you recommend a different light, like the V10R, over this one? Thanks!

I've had several versions of the RRT0. My first one the XRE was the best one when it comes to quality but it had the multi levels and not the infinite levels. So I sold it to try out something new. I then got the R5 version, it was ok but the switch wasn't the best and there was flicker sometimes and the tint was terrible so I sold it. I then bought the newest RRTO modded to a HCRI. Same issues as the R5 except worse. The switch was very wonky the light flickered constantly in all levels and when on its highest setting the tint shifted to blue.

Jetbeam has the highest level set to 2.0 amps, which is too high for the XPG ok for XML but not in such a small package. Also the 2.0 amp is too high for a standard LiIon RCR123 so you need IMR.

I now have the V10R and it in my opinion is superior quality to the newest RRTOs. The drive current is 1.5 amps so just at the edge of spec for RCR123. I'm getting my XML version modded to a nice neutral tint.

I just received an RRT-0 XML and a V10R today. I also have one of the very first RRT-0s released (I don't remember which emitter it has). Both Jetbeams seem to work fine, and are good quality. I also have a JB Jet-III M and Jet-I Pro that have worked perfectly too.

The V10R also seems to work fine, and is high quality. The V10R is quite a lot smaller than the RRT-0, and has a similar range of brightness. The V10R seems to ramp a little smoother than the RRT-0, but the RRT-0's ring is easier to grip and turn, IMO. The V10R has a slight edge in pocketability, and price, but it lacks strobe and SOS if that's important. I'd say they're both great choices.

Viper715 said:

I now have the V10R and it in my opinion is superior quality to the newest RRTOs. The drive current is 1.5 amps so just at the edge of spec for RCR123. I'm getting my XML version modded to a nice neutral tint.

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You will love it. :thumbsup:

I bought both the RRT0 and SWM V10A and modded them to HCRI. The SWM is smaller, lighter, has a better feel to the variable ring, has NO flickering like the RRT0 can and the switch feels good and there is NO STROBE modes on the SWM.

That's disappointing to hear that the RRT-0 quality has gone down so much; I really like the screwed on clip option over a freely rotating clip, and the AA extender. So the flickering isn't an issue that they've corrected or you can get corrected under warranty, just a result of a low frequency PWM or something? Is it extremely noticeable, or mainly visible if you sweep the light quickly across a surface? And the V10A has a higher frequency, or it just doesn't flicker because it has a different driver method?

The flicker I noticed was do to some type of contact issues. I believe the switch was at fault as I could push and move the clicky with my thumb and could make it better and worse. I disassembled and reassembled and tightened down and still had the same issues. I never noted any PWM.

Funny you should mention a screw in pocket clip. I'm having my tail end tapped and a Nitecore E11 clip installed thanks to think2x, he's also the one modding it to a neutral XML. Thanks for that!

Also I believe the V10R and V10A body's are interchangeable so you could at least have the option for AA.

What does it mean to mod to hcri?
Thank you

I have the RRT-0 with the S2 emitter. I've had the light for about a month. I haven't had a bit of problem out of it
( knock on wood).The Ano is great along with lettering. Personal I like the size of the light. You can hold it and use the variable ring with one hand. I run it on 1x CR123. I haven't ran it on a 14500 or 16340(RCR123). Also, I haven't had the opportunity to have a hands on experience with the V10 so I guess I'm a little bias:0). I'm sure both are great lights, you will be happy with either one.

i bought one of the latest rrt-0 s2 last september.
the built quality seemed excellent (appart from the usual lettering issue)

it was flickering except on highest mode with a fresh charged 16340, and was near to unusable with AA's or primaries so it went back to the dealer for a refund : no more jetbeam's/nitecore's for me until they realy improve their QC

MDJAK said:

What does it mean to mod to hcri?
Thank you

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Please see "Homemade and Modified Flashlights Discussion" under SWM V10A HCRI mod or High CRI BC10 and RRTO for info on what I mean. I swapped out the factory XP-G R5 with an XP-G Q2 (I think?) that has a High Color Rendering Index of 90+

The color rendering index (CRI) (sometimes called color rendition index), is a quantitative measure of the ability of a light source to reproduce the colors of various objects faithfully in comparison with an ideal or natural light source. Light sources with a high CRI are desirable in color-critical applications such as photography and cinematography.

I just got a new XML RRT-0 a few days ago, and I'm still trying to figure it out. The first night I had it, after a while it started flickering really badly in the lower output range. At first just when turning the ring, but then it started constantly flickering or pulsing on any low-range setting.
But, since then, it hasn't done it as bad (only when actually turning the ring), and I can't seem to make it constantly flicker on command. I believe I had a newly charged IMR 16340 in it when the bad flickering appeared. But since then, I've tried different batteries, CR123, RCR123, IMR 16340 all at different voltages, tightening, loosening threads, pressing on the switch, etc., and I can't get it to consistently flicker like that again. In fact, it hasn't done it at all since that first night. So, I'm not sure how big a problem this might be for my light, and it's no problem at all right now (just installed a newly charged IMR 16340 and it seems to be working just fine).

Overall, I really like the RRT-0, and one has been in my carry rotation since early 2010. The output of the XML version on a 16340 is pretty amazing. I'll be keeping an eye on the flickering.

Viper715 said:

Funny you should mention a screw in pocket clip. I'm having my tail end tapped and a Nitecore E11 clip installed thanks to think2x, he's also the one modding it to a neutral XML. Thanks for that!

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If you don't mind me asking, how much did the clip mod set you back? After hearing some doubts about the RRT-0, the V10R is looking a little better. But I really want a fixed pocket clip, and it looks like it would end up costing more than the RRT-0 if I got all the accessories to match what I can get with the RRT-0 (assuming that I even can buy just a V10A body alone for a AA option). Also, superficial as it is, I'm not too fond of the excessive lettering on the V10R body and the knockoff JIS logo (although the RRT-0 also has some overly "tactical" inscriptions).

The RRT-0 is more reliable than the Nitecore EX11.2, at least, right? I hear about flickering with the RRT-0, but I haven't heard of them absolutely not working after some time like some of the Nitecores have. If I can't get things worked out with the V10R, maybe I'll just find a reputable dealer that stocks the RRT-0 just in case I get a dud.

I've kinda got some horse trading going on with the mods to that light so I'll have to defer to Think2x for that answer.

If you get a light from a good dealer you should have no problems getting service if you need it. After I have a couple of problems with a light I move on though. I wanted to like the RRT0 but just couldn't.

If I could get my first one back but put an XPG in it I would be happy enough with it but it was still a bigger light than I thought it needed to be. The V10R is much smaller and easier to carry but it is harder to grip the mode ring.

The jetbeam was fine, just preferred the sunnyman version a little more.
Kept both, just in case I need to give one away

I just got my RRT0 and I also have two v10r ti. All three lights I have the AA extender which allows me to use AA and 123 size batteries.

-Overall the v10r is a smaller light.
-The rrt0 cost me $114 where the v10r ti cost me $114 plus $20 for the AA extender. If you get the aluminum version of the v10r it would be cheaper than the rrt0.
-rrt0 is aluminum vs v20r which is titanium.
-rrt0 with xml at max setting is much brighter than v10r which has a xpg.
-one thing i notice about the rrt0 is that the lowest setting is brighter when using a rcr123 vs AA, where on the v10r lowest brightness stays the same with different battery.
-my rrt0 has this flickering issue that some people seem to also have.

My RRT-0 S2 has been perfect. I can't speak for the R5 or XML version, but S2 has served me well.

nMotion96 said:

I just got my RRT0 and I also have two v10r ti. All three lights I have the AA extender which allows me to use AA and 123 size batteries.

-Overall the v10r is a smaller light.
-The rrt0 cost me $114 where the v10r ti cost me $114 plus $20 for the AA extender. If you get the aluminum version of the v10r it would be cheaper than the rrt0.
-rrt0 is aluminum vs v20r which is titanium.
-rrt0 with xml at max setting is much brighter than v10r which has a xpg.
-one thing i notice about the rrt0 is that the lowest setting is brighter when using a rcr123 vs AA, where on the v10r lowest brightness stays the same with different battery.
-my rrt0 has this flickering issue that some people seem to also have.

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Can you tell me where you got a titanium V10R that cheaply (or PM it if posting that is against the rules)?

I originally had an XR-E version of the RRT-0, and now have both the XP-G and XM-L versions. Zero problems with any of them. The difference in the output when using an RCR123A vs. a CR123A battery is very impressive!

Re: Anyone had a problem with the Jetbeam RRT-0? No

I've had the RRT-0 XM-L since the first week of release & I have been using it with AW RCR123 & 16340. I have EDC'd it everysingle day in my back pocket & take it jogging around the block every week. I've seen no flickering or quality issues. The type 3 hard anodizing is still 100%, no scratches or scuffs. 550 lumens out of a light this small is hard to beat.

Re: Anyone had a problem with the Jetbeam RRT-0? No

I've got the RRT-0 in both XM-L and XP-G formats. The XM-L is a great little pocket rocket on an RCR123 and I haven't experience any problems with it whatsoever. I love the feel of the light in the hand and the ring operates smoothly giving great flexibility in output levels.

I bought the RRT-0 XP-G used, and unfortunately, it did exhibit the dreaded flickering at low levels. I cleaned the light's threads and contacts and the flickering issue disappeared. Interestingly enough, I found the ano/finish was much better on the older XP-G version than the newer XM-L version...the ano on the XP-G version was a bit darker as well.

Either way, I think the RRT-0 is a great little light and it's currently my EDC pocket light. Also, the Nitecore EX11 pocket clip fits perfectly on the RRT-0 without any modifications. The screw holes line up perfectly...or at least they did on my RRT-0's. You can pick them up from several well known CPF dealers.