Help Assembling a Specific Surefire Lego

hi all!
A guy in another forum is dreaming about his perfect rifle light. it is:

One cell
Cylindrical (though he would compromise for a E-series head diamteter)
Momentary Switch (ala Z41)

if I am not mistaken a Z52, Z53, Z54 switch will be the medicine if he can combine it with E-series body and LED replacement head.

But will a Z52 fit in the M300A Scout light?

What other lego combinations are possible?

And the hot question...are there any Z52 around ( I knwo they are discontinued), or are they a RARE occurance in the marketplace too?

TNX, Kostas

Hmmm...this will be tough, but, it can be done. To get it "matching", he will have to go HA, since a black E-Series twisty is almost non-existent. But, here's my take on a 1-Cell E-series weaponlight (other than the M300).

Body: E1e/L-HA Body (Clip Removed)
Tail Cap: Z52-HA
Engine: L1-Head (It'll come on high first, since the resisitor is in the tail-cap (note, only some L1 heads will work).
Mount: M78 .8" Mount

The best option would be (for pure functionality): 1-Cell E-Body (E1e/E1L/E1B) (HA-BK), E1B Head, Z52. It won't match color wise, but, if he gets a black head (E1B) and Black Tail Cap (It would still be a clicky), the M78 will cover up the HA body.

The second set-up mentioned would give him a 1-Cell 110 Lumen, light weight compact weapon life, and would be about half the cost of an M300. If he went with the M300, the Z52 would work, but like I said, I've never seen, or heard, of a black one, and if there are any out there, I'm sure they would be a pretty penny. Or he could just mount a black E1B on the M78 and remove the clip.

I would just go with a black clicky...the clicky can be operated as a momentary, just don't push till it clicks.

Hope this helps.

AOW thank you for your quick pesponse.....

The clicky is out of question. he is a hard core shooter and wants a "dead-man's swicth" he wouldn't mind a color mismatch

E1B head? isn't this 2 stage controlled by the head??

L1-Head? for what output?

This thread is all about that setup, if he isn't against using a RCR123...

The E1B is two stage...there are no one stage stock SF LED's...the E1B head comes on high first, with like a 2-second delay..so, as long as it's 2-seconds between "activations", he'll get 110 every-time. The TW4 mentioned in skillet will work, but, the high out-put is only about 15-20 minutes at 60-65 lumens, IIRC???

With that being said, he could try to get an M300 head...other than that, he might have to buy a custom head?

Wait...just thought of something...Malkoff M30 in a standard black bezel + LU60 Adapter + A21 + Z44 (Basically a homemade 3P) mounted with the M79 1" mount; Decent output, runtime, quality, and, it'll match. A little wider than the E-series, but, it'll be the easiest build by far, with-out having to try to source a bunch of odd pieces here and there...I'll build one real quick and put a pic up.

Check out Viking Tactics. They've worked with Surefire and have produced almost exactly what you would want. They have a single stage black E head but uses a clicky Z68. The thing is you would have to source a twisty momentary. You would have no problem selling the Z68.

It's called the Vtac L4 Mini. It's basically a single stage E1B and Z68. They even sell it in a package with a weapon mount that accommodates the E1B clip.

But why just 1 cell for a rifle light? Just go with the Elzetta in 2x123.

If for some obscure reason insist on the 1 cell, I'd agree to go the 3P route, standard bezel, and any one of the compatible SF tailcaps will then work. I have a Leef 3P body, which is great, though I agree may be hard to find one out there now.

flashy bazook said:

But why just 1 cell for a rifle light? Just go with the Elzetta in 2x123.

If for some obscure reason insist on the 1 cell, I'd agree to go the 3P route, standard bezel, and any one of the compatible SF tailcaps will then work. I have a Leef 3P body, which is great, though I agree may be hard to find one out there now.

Click to expand...

Being in Europe, they much more prefer (or maybe it's a "social" thing) sub-machine guns, over the AR platform. If I had an Uzi, I'd prefer an M300 over an M600...that's just me though...

Anyway, at the OP, here's pic's of the "3P" weapon light I was able to concoct, as well as the "E1B" version...:

Here's the assembled "3P" and E1B lego's next to a C2 for size comparison:



From another angle:



And here's some di-sected shots: