4 Sevens P0 Mini Video Review - Eneloop Battery Research Video

Hi,
I am a 4 Sevens fan and customer. I have been reading the other thread avidly. Many have said that the 4 Sevens newly release Preon0 is incompatable with eneloop batteries. Below are two videos from the first run of Preon0's.

UPDATE:The Preon0 has been updated to V1.2! The current and future shipments are a new version 1.2 of the light which addresses and corrects all observations noted here in this thread of the first run and releases. See post#18

The first video is a first hand look at a Preon0 out of the package. I have used eneloops in the second Preon0 in the video without problems(see post#5 CORRECTED). One by removing the foam completely, and second by opening up the center hole in the foam using a 3/32" center punch. I have heard that Lithium AAA cells function well also. I really like the light. I would like the magnet to be removeable, but it actually serves as the force to keep the battery from rattling. The GITD feature works for me. Could it be better? My answer is yes, by using a GITD o-ring between the head and lens of the light and replacing the GITD plastic with plastic that utilizes GITD paint instead. Ex. If a GITD white paint were used, it would reflect white and not green. I must admit that these shaded tints were only noticable in the very outer edges of the beam(whitewall hunting:huh, and not within the beam on my two samples. I would like to see 3 levels, the existing Firefly, a higher low ~2-3lm, and the existing high(a few more lumens wouldn't hurt). Overall I am satisfied with the quality of build, I like the beadblasted finish, and absolutely love it's size. :thumbsup:


4 Sevens Preon0 Video Mini-Review

Many have questioned whether the Preon0 is damaging itself or the batteries. I do not beleive that is the case, unless you are using enough twisting force to litterally crush the battery. The second Video has no audio and shows that the Preon0 components protrude ~0.5mm or less upward from the driver board. The foam spacer is ~2.2mm thick, can be compressed to about ~0.41 mm, and most importantly that both Duracells and Eneloops are flush with the Preon0 endtube, and both positive contacts protrude by atleast ~1.37mm. Given these tollerances and the ~1mm clearance using both batteries, I beleive the main problem is in the foam inserts design. Due to the eneloops square shaped button, I believe that it is pinching the foam between it and the driver. I have seen particles of foam and them getting lodged within the threads of the head and body. This maybe from the endtube tearing at it, not sure. I clean my lights regularly, I will use the second Preon0 and update this post if necessary. Update coming soon . . . see post#5. CORRECTED in V1.2


4 Sevens Preon0 Video Battery Compatibility Corrected in V1.2

There have been nine updates and changes to the Preon0 v.1.2 . Here's my new Change Video:





GL
Got Lumens?

Thanks for taking the time to do these. Interesting findings indeed.

I use Eneloop aaa's in it and use Tenergy Centura aaa's as well. I don't know about anybody else but my foam insert is perfect and leaves a gap between the positive contact on the PCB and can see the green on the PCB and then the two outer edges of the 6-pin IC's. The rest of the small components are out of sight. If the foam had covered over the IC the packaging wouldn't have cracked. The packaging on an IC is pretty tough stuff as it has to do a pretty important job.

Also when a larger diameter surface(like and eneloop positive terminal) is meeting up with a smaller diameter surface(the positive contact nipple on the P0's PCB. Then the remaining pressure from a twist or two can make the smaller end push up into the positive battery end. Which would result in flexing of the metal or perhaps indent it a little to get this .5mm or more as with tolerances.

There is no spring to keep equal tension and with mechanics somethings have to give. The foam is merely there to protect the PCB and components but when an IC is just too close for comfort then you have just jimmy rig it. As with a car, you can take it to the dealer or just address it yourself.

Great review and thanks for the measurements and specs. They are going to be much needed for further ramification of this debockle.

Thanks GL!

please keep us posted with a video how you fixed the problem..

shelm said:

Thanks GL!
please keep us posted with a video how you fixed the problem..

Click to expand...

Thanks Shelm.
Unfortunately I did not measure the battery posts in my first video, I wish I had.
I got mine to work with sheer luck. I had enlarged the center hole in the foam and the eneloops started working. Here's some measurements from one of my samples:

Duracell Base of the buttontop . . . . . . . . . .~3.30mm
Eneloop Base of the buttontop . . . . . . . . . .~3.80mm
Clearance between Driver board components ~3.81mm

One possible solution that someone else used was modding the driver boards positive contact by adding some soldier on top to raise it. I would not reccomend that method, but it does work.
Sorry to be the bearer of the news. I will be adding this info later this weekend to the first post.

Even with these findings, I still lke the light :thumbsup:
GL

My P0 has worked perfectly right out of the box with an Eneloop. It's all I've ever used in it so far. The only issue I could see was, the raised disc at the bottom of the battery tube was etching a circle into the base of my Eneloop. But, it seems to have etched as deep as it's going to, and isn't getting any deeper.

Yeah, my foam insert was causing no problems at all, the centre hole was easily wide enough to fit the positive contact through. Even with it removed however eneloops rubbed through the plastic coating on the edge of one of the components in the head and caused a short-circuit. I think there is slight individual variation between P0s though so for some it may be a problem and for others it may not. It's a risk for all before purchasing though..

RedForest UK said:

Yeah, my foam insert was causing no problems at all, the centre hole was easily wide enough to fit the positive contact through. Even with it removed however eneloops rubbed through the plastic coating on the edge of one of the components in the head and caused a short-circuit. I think there is slight individual variation between P0s though so for some it may be a problem and for others it may not. It's a risk for all before purchasing though..

Click to expand...

Yup I agree. there are slight variations in the driver PCB, not the machining of the flashlight. I have seen pictures of the center contact that is raised , other are not like the one I have and yours. I think mine is working with Eneloops by pushing the buttontop off center slightly to make its way between the surface mounted components. I have stopped using Eneloops in mine to prevent that dreaded dead short that many are reporting. I will post updated video as soon as I can.
GL

A few updates as promised:


A close up of the wear marks on one of the I/Cs on the P0s driver.
. . . Click to enlarge


The groove in the bottoms of Eneloops explained.
. . . Click to enlarge


And lastly my first P0 Modification. A brighter low than the stock.
. . . Click to enlarge

GL

Got Lumens?: So you just removed the glow ring? How much brighter do you estimate it to be?

Streamer said:

Got Lumens?: So you just removed the glow ring? How much brighter do you estimate it to be?

Click to expand...

Actually the glow ring is stillin there. I used Lee swatch book
It's not alot, but is noticeable to the eye, only on low. So if Low without is say 0.25lm, this might be about 0.75lm. It appears that the gain is mearly from the lightthat used to be absorbed by the glow ring, which is reflector shaped. Hold on let me pull out my light meter . . . back in ten

Got Lumens? said:

Actually the glow ring is stillin there. I used Lee swatch book
It's not alot, but is noticeable to the eye, only on low. So if Low without is say 0.25lm, this might be about 0.75lm. It appears that the gain is mearly from the lightthat used to be absorbed by the glow ring, which is reflector shaped. Hold on let me pull out my light meter . . . back in ten

Click to expand...

Quick comparison
Calculated 1M lux Stock P0 on High 11 lux
Calculated 1M lux Stock P0 on Low 0.1175 lux
Calculated 1M lux Modd P0 on High 11 lux
Calculated 1M lux Modd P0 on Low 0.475 lux
GL

So, a 4 fold increase in lux for the low modd. From what I've read up on here quadrupling the lumens corresponds to @ 2x increase in brightness. Would it be correct then to say you effectively have doubled the throw OR have doubled the lumen brightness?

Streamer said:

So, a 4 fold increase in lux for the low modd. From what I've read up on here quadrupling the lumens corresponds to @ 2x increase in brightness. Would it be correct then to say you effectively have doubled the throw OR the lumen brightness?

Click to expand...

It is not any brighter, there is just more reaching what you are pointing at. I will try to take a beamshot here and post it. Basically Like I mentioned you are gaining what tiny bit that was being absorbed by the glowring. There is appears to be the same beam pattern and throw. Give me a few to take and upload beamshot.
GL

This was a free hand shot, I wll try to do a fixed light shot soon.
GL

Got Lumens? said:

This was a free hand shot, I wll try to do a fixed light shot soon.
GL

Click to expand...

REALLY< That looks twice as bright. There's more light on the wall. So there's more OTF lumens/throw.

Here's the controlled shots taken at ~10".

OK,
The moment I have been waiting for, receiving, and testing the New Preon0 v.1.2!
I will be testing these observations over the next week or so, and will post another review video then.
Here's the NINE revisions and some observations that I have found with the current Preon0 v.1.2's.

1) Eneloops Now work flawlessly ! (& square shaped annoded batteries)
2) Increased the height of the center positive driver contact 0.25mm
3) Plated the center positive contact to provide better contact and wear resistance.
4) The High Resistance opens between the driver pill and head are gone. (further testing to confirm)
5) Added two full threads thickness to the pills body.
6) Flared the last two threads ends outward to add pressure against the head
7) Incorporated a copper strip into the pill body for greater conductivity with the stainless head
8) Added a positive stop for the pill to screw down against tightly
9) Changed the foam on the top of the driver pill to rubber.
10) No more particals of foam to clog the threads
11) They now include a spare oring
12) The bottom of the battery tube is now free of burrs that scratched negative battery contacts
13) Consistant trouble free and easier one handed operation (further testing to confirm)
14) No more mode level skipping (further testing to confirm)
15) Added Oring groove seperation ring between threads and groove (Credit Cave Dave)

:candle::thumbsup:
GL

Update: New Video uploaded in Post #1

I have been delighted with the changes too. I have two of the newer ones and they are perfect. Had to send my first one back. 47's were great to deal with - and I am a pain in the ***.

eala

Hey GL,

Any idea how to remove the LED for upgrading? Looks like a PITA.

eala