could use some guidance on my first build

ok so I have an idea for a nice flashlight build, however I have a few pieces of the puzzle missing.

I'm thinking about using a CREE XMLEZW-02-0000-0B00U230F, this light takes 5.8V at it's forward voltage at .7A

I'd like it power it with dual RCR123s

I plan on using the McClicky switch and the boom reflector from darksucks.

I want to use the NANJG 105C but they say specifically not to use 2 normal CR123s as they can catch fire. Can you prevent this with the right heatsink?

And I have no idea what to do about a body. I would like something simple and compact that fits those 2 RCR123 and preferably an area to etch with a laser.

Any thoughts? Am I on the right track for a build and where on earth can I find a body, I'd rather not strip another light for it. Oh yea I don't wanna forget a lens and end caps.

OK...so I'm going to try and translate a little...

What you actually want to do is build a light based around an XM-L LED, a 5-mode 2.8A driver with a McClicky switch and Boom reflector?

Why the boom reflector? And what kind of Boom reflector - there are lots of different shapes and sizes. It makes your choice of host a little harder.

The driver you want won't take more than 6V in - 2 series connected CR123 batteries will provide 7.2 volts and will blow the driver - no amount of heat sinking will stop that from happening. You could simply switch to using a single 18650 battery and that will solve your problem.

Define what Boom reflector you want to use (the one I think you want is 22mm in diameter which instantly makes it difficult to use with most 18650 based hosts).

Um...that's all I've got for now!

Why are you choosing a 6V XM-L Easy White for your LED?

XM-L EW is a 4 die package like the MC-E only more efficient. You'll have troubles getting a good sharp beam with this led especially with boom reflector which will give you some terrible flood you really don't want.

Those batteries should stright up kill the driver if they are in serise. If they were in parallel then you just won't get enough voltage to run the LED/driver.

If you were using multiple LEDs theres a trick you can use (putting some/one of the LEDs in serise with the driver/batteries) to make hihger voltage work with a 7135 based driver but you seem to want ot use one LED.

And I don't know why you would want to use one of those LEDs. A normal XM-L is more efficient, I suppose the beam could be nicer or a better tint on what you propose?

Toaster79 said:

XM-L EW is a 4 die package like the MC-E only more efficient. You'll have troubles getting a good sharp beam with this led especially with boom reflector which will give you some terrible flood you really don't want.

Click to expand...

That's all well and good, but the point is that a 6V LED driven by a 7135-based driver is an extremely poor combination. If the Easy White 6V LED is required for whatever reason, currently unstated, then the OP will need a different driver.

I never said he should use the EW. He'd be better off with regular XM-L and modified Ledil Regina reflector if the size matters.

well I managed to pick up some of the XMLEZWs for free so that's why I was looking into using them and I wasn't really married to the boom reflector (20mm), that was just easy to pickup from darksucks.com where I was gonna buy some of the other parts.

What kind of driver could handle that kind of voltage, or should I just drop down to a single battery configuration?

Looking around I found light hound.com has the LEEF bodies they fit either 2 CR123as or 1 18650. I was thinking maybe that with the matching tail cap and the big LEEF for surefire C. Does that make sense?

By the way guys that's for the input you are saving me a lot of time aggravation and money (you know cause I won't buy the wrong stuff.)

I don't see the XM-L Easy White LED working well with the driver you've chosen. One Li-ion, with Vbatt~3.7V nominal, is not enough to get even close to regulation. You need Vin to be at least LED Vf + voltage overhead of the driver (which is 0.12V). The datasheet says that Vf at 2A drive is 6.4V, so you need at least 6.5V. In reality, you need even more than that because of parasitic resistance in a real-world flashlight. Furthermore, the datasheet says that 2A drive is the max, whereas the NANJG 105C is an 8x7135 driver, meaning 2.8A max drive. Even if the LED is happy being overdriven at 2.8A, 2x123A also won't work. At 2.8A draw, you will never get close to a Vin of 6V. You most likely won't even get 5V. It won't happen with 2A draw either.

Either use a regular XM-L, with a Vf in the 3.5V range when driven at max current, with the NANJG driver, or get a different driver such as a 2A buck driver powered by 2xLi-ion. I personally would use a 2A buck driver.

Ok well I found a nice 5 mode buck driver that can take up to 35v and a whole body package that holds 2CR123s a pill, reflector lens tail cap. Pretty much everything else I would need.