Want to build Mclux 5W

zorba

Enlightened
Joined
Jul 11, 2003
Messages
214
Location
Veria Greece
I want to build a mclux 5W with 2x123 bats, but I m so confused that would like someone to tell me exactly what parts to use, besides the obvious body and head.
ie, what module to use, converters, etc
Thanks
 

ufokillerz

Enlightened
Joined
Feb 21, 2003
Messages
967
Location
New York City
i recommend a McLux PR head, its cheaper and works better for a 5 watt since it has a PR reflector and more body mass to handle the heat of the 5w.

Besides the McLux PR head you would need a Badboy driver for 2x123 battery use. Something like 700ma is better since 750ma is a bit overdriving and can cause more heat. You will of course need a 5watt luxeon also. The McLux PR head kit comes with everything you need to build the head besides the thermal epoxy, potting compound, badboy driver and the luxeon.
 

jtice

Flashaholic
Joined
May 21, 2003
Messages
6,331
Location
West Virginia
I second ufo's suggestion.

The PR Mclux will handle the heat alot better, and the Pelican reflector (supplied) will be alot nicer with the 5W.

If you are going to only use 2x123 batts, bo with a BB converter. But, if you wish to use 3x123, or something else down the road, you might want to look into the DownBoy converters.

700mA should make a very nive amount of light from the 5W.
But, I think the PR head could handle upwards of 1000mA.
You just need to deside what kind of brightness / runtime you want.

If you get the PR mclux head,, all you need is epoxy, 5W LS, converter, and batt pack.

If you go with that original Mclux haed, you will also need an ecan and nxo5, or Fraen LP optics.
I wouldnt drive the original Mclux head over 700mA though.

[EDIT] Let me clear something up. -- You donnot NEED an ecan for the original Mclux head. It is simply an option.
There is some debate on weather it is better to use the ecan or not. Some say that for thermal propertied of the converter, it is actually better not to.
 
E

EchoSierraTwo

Guest
nice. I always wondered that too zorba. I wish there was a section for newbies titled " How to", where some of the pros showed how they built lights, etc. with detailed instructions, pics, parts, where they ordered the parts, etc. That would be GREAT!

UFO, you always seem to amaze me with your input and knowledge.
 

jtice

Flashaholic
Joined
May 21, 2003
Messages
6,331
Location
West Virginia
Furious,

That funny you mention that.
Me and Wayne (dat2zip) are currently in the process of making COMPLETE how to guides for many popular mods.

Encluding: Mclux, PR Mclux, E1, Pelican M6, and minimag and Brinkmann dropin modules.

Zorba,

Well, a X3T 5W of corse. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif Good luch getting your hands on one though. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/frown.gif
HotBeam might be getting some pretty good binned 5Wers soon.
 
E

EchoSierraTwo

Guest
Nice, nice. Very nice. I thank you very much from the bottom of my heart. seriously. I learn and operate much better like that. I cannot wait. Will you post in the appropiate forums when it is available? Will it be a book for purchase or a .pdf for download? Website possibly? This is really GREAT news.
 

jtice

Flashaholic
Joined
May 21, 2003
Messages
6,331
Location
West Virginia
Furious,

The plan is to make web page how to walk threws.

Its probably gonna be a few weeks. Wayne, or myself will post in Wayne Shoppe section when each is avalible.

I will look into making them as .pdf files so that they can be easily saved to the computer easily.
 
E

EchoSierraTwo

Guest
jtice. I can create .pdfs if you need. I am willing to help. just PM me. I am looking forward for this. Thanx
 

CM

Flashlight Enthusiast
Joined
Sep 11, 2002
Messages
3,454
Location
Mesa, AZ
I'd go with the McLux PR for the 5W if you plan on driving near spec or above. It has larger mass, not to mention a superb beam when used with the 5W. I have one driven at 750mA and it gets hot real fast. I imagine the original McLux head would get hot faster. X3T is the way to go if you can get one but I have a V3 that is indistinguishable from a W4 as far as light output. U's are a last resort.

CM
 
Top