E1/2 Lanyard DIY

Well, as many of you now know, as it stands now, SF will not be having lanyards for the E1 and E2 due to problems with the tail cap fit/conductivity- the wire for the ring was just too thick to allow the light to work properly, so that idea was shelved. So, in my infinite wisdom after a couple of pints, I decided to make my own.

Here's some instructions if you're bored some evening. Get out your trusty drill and center punch. Remove the bezel from the barrel. You don't want to accidentally drill into a lithium battery kids. Use the punch to dent the metal of the pocket clip so your bit won't slide. Make a 1/8" hole with a decent metal cutting bit- preferably in the center of the clip. Attach a split key ring through the hole. This does prevent the clip from sealing up against the barrel of the light (depending on the size of split ring used- use a small one or another fastener through the hole and you can eliminate this minor issue. If you're using it on a neck lanyard (in this case)- so what? Put the light back together. Using a lanyard you have from something else - in this case a Pelican L1- attach it to the split ring and voilà, you've got your E1 (or E2) on a lanyard. Plus, the split ring is easy to remove and the pocket clip returns to true when you do. Let me know what you think!

Ok not to sound like the kid pointing out to the moron getting ready to cut the horse's legs cuz its too tall to go through the door....
Why don't they put the ring on the lamp side??? or does that make too much sense?

BTW TIM thanks for the great idea!!!
I guess you won't be sawing any horses soon.

Tim, the belt clip secures with a small domed allen setscrew doesn't it ?

What if you substituted an allen socket / slotted / hexhead setscrew, which would stand a 5mm or so shape out from the surface. Then you could drill a small about 2mm hole through it, and add a micro split ring, onto which you could then if you wanted put a full-size key ring. That shouldn't get in the way very much, even if left on all the time, and you would still retain the belt clip as is. And you could possibly add a small swivel instead of a micro split-ring. I think it would have a bezel up balance.

Is this a flawed notion ? I did ask my old engineer friend about it.

He said, and I quote : "The things you people worry about. I'm really busy now Jahn, phone me tomorrow evening ..."

Of course, a Sure-Fire version would be in a Titanium alloy, with co-ordinated styling, a luminous cover, friction adjustable, and a hand-made secondary locking system.

Lite-Lover

As for weakening the clip- maybe, but not to any signficant degree IMO. That area of the clip doesn't flex much and with the hole drilled in the center, you're still keeping as much mass as possible around the hole. That said, I never use(d) the clip on the E1 anyway. It made the bezel hang out too much from my pocket and with a fairly even weight disribution between bezel and barrel, it frequently found it's way to the floor/chair/couch. So I just rotated the clip inwards and it sunk nicely into my watch pocket in jeans (or resided in jacket pocket of coat or suit so the clip wasn't used that way either).

That said, your suggestion for the E2 is something I thought of after I had drilled the hole for the E1- which is the only way I carry the E1 now- the E2 is always with me using the clip since it has that added length to offset the balance. The E1 doesn't flop too much, but I think I'd (personally) get pretty tired of the E2 flopping into my chest (I've got it set for neck carry). The bezel down would be a better idea for the E2, I agree- and using the last flat area of the clip would be ideal.

As always, YMMV- this is my solution to not letting the E1 collect dust now that the E2 is out. I don't think I'll bother with the E2 at this point.

Keith: the bezel needs the tight fit to maintain contact for the light to fit as well as to retain some semblance of water resistance.

Lite-Lover: Correct on the set screw and also a good option I think. I dug up an old Tekna light with just such a ring/option that I think SF could adapt VERY easily (or we, as the consumer could)- check it out:

For a close-up:


It stands 0.18425" high and has a diameter of 0.22450". It might be a tad too tall for the Executive series, but that's easily rectified.

Cool pix Tim, very real thanks.

That's the kind of thing I had visualised, but with removability, etc. My long suffering friend Joe Engineer might make something like that up - I've a small collection of nicely-styled American thread fixings which could be adapted.

Then I would Have to buy a Sure-Fire E2 GM - know where I can get a torches price-list ?

(Tim, we Brits say 4.67995 mm - we're not imperial anymore ! I had to convert it to metric to "see" it. You must be using a good digital micrometer.)

Hope your new baby's not keeping you awake too much ...

Lite-Lover

We Brits use Metric.

Not 100% yet because change doesn't happen over night...

Al

It looks to me like this will significantly weaken the clip. The clip on my Spyderco Calypso Jr LW broke where the factory hole in the clip was. I would suggest that the hole be placed at the end of the clip. With it in this location, the light would hang with the bezel pointed down. (An E2 would point up if it is placed where you have put it.)

Tim & Lite-Lover,

I am liking this idea... the one on that flash light looks good, maybe your friend (Lite-lover) could make one? Or, maybe someone knows where they can be purchased?


Size15s,

Metric is just wrong.... I have been very resistant to it, I realize it is easier to work with, but, COME ON! It's just not natural !

Then again, I complain to people how reading a book is not natural, where as reading a computer screen is (of course this makes sence, because looking FORWARD, is easier, than looking DOWN.... right?? Also, at times, I have found, that I would be reading print, and thinking "I need to turn up the brightness.... doh! It's a book, thats right..." ... those darn books, the pages just don't glow ! Another thing, people say WRITING is natural, BAH! I say, NO WAY ... typing is FAR more natural! Anyone agree, disagree?

Doug

Ps. I copied the 2nd half of this post into a message in chit chat, find it at:

Chit Chat Topic

Doug

Start a Chitchat thread on this and we'll discuss it!

Regarding Tim's Lanyard, I never us the clip on the E1 and would love a Lanyard. However, taking off the clip and replacing it will a tiny connecter seems more combact for my needs.

With Flashlights like the M2, C2 & D2, I have used a Z12 Bezel Lanyard Ring...

Al

Thinking this through from Tim's photos

Hey, Tim, please let's just work to only 2 decimal places…Please ?
In metric as well ?
Oh.
OK then, *foreign* if you prefer.

(Without knowing the actual measurements)
Tim, what if your drilled clip, just as photographed had a nut'n'bolt (or bolt alone ? ) fixed through the hole, so that a dome, same as the other one of the clip, was on the top, on the outside, and a nut of the appropriate shape and size was secured under the clip, between clip and flashlight barrel.

Would this provide enough of a sprung retention / captivity to act as custody for a lanyard ? That way, the lanyard would be caught under the clip, between the bezel and the added nut. Or probably, you could retain a small D-ring, which would nevertheless be a low-profile addition.

Of course it would break-through if pulled at in the "away" or weak direction, but that could be determined. Wondering if it would it get in the way if you then used the clip with the (if optimally shaped ! ) retainer still affixed ? Or stress the clip too much ? This would probably work better if integral with the clip, but re-shaping spring steel – for the factory only.


Doug, I think the easiest way for the other idea - if there is an Allen socket or hex headed screw of the right dimensions in my small box of American fixings, all that forbearin' Joe has to do is drill a hole through it. Otherwise, it means making things up and all ……

Lite-lover

Tim,

Thanks for a great idea!
I tried it and it works well. I drilled the hole, then I used two really small (7mm) split rings, one on each side. Then I put a bigger one thru the two.
This way the clip can still press up against the body of the light.