Info for a newbie?

Quane_suikoden · Mar 12, 2008

AnAppleSnail said:
The voltage rating matters for the batteries you'll use. A 4.2v-8.4v light NEEDS 2 li-ions or 2 lithiums in series. A 1.8-4.2v light will burn out quickly with that setup. "Xenon" = filament bulb, less runtime than LED. The other things are LED types. Larger = floodier & more efficient, smaller = greater throw in a given reflector.
XP-E, XR-E, XP-G, XM-L, MC-E, P7 in order of size - check out the datasheets for each for more information. I suggest that you get a 3-mode XP-G or XM-L dropin, with a voltage range of 1.8-4.2v, along with a decent protected 18650 and charger.

A reverse clicky pushes all the way in before it comes on, then half-presses are easy to do. You could push in, half-press half-press and get to the 3d mode.
A forward clicky can half-press before you push all the way in. You'd have to half-press half-press push in to get to the third mode. I find that there isn't much difference.

An 18650 is bigger and holds its higher voltage for longer than a CR123. But an 18650 is a bit bigger than 2 CR123s. They're an easy no-brainer for solarforces. Get the build I suggested (3-mode, with a voltage range including 3.6v, XP-G or XM-L, and an 18650 and charger) and you'll have a starting point.

Cool, thanks for the info. Just a few more things though. So if I want more throw than flood, I want an MC-E or P7 or something lower on the the list that you stated? Cause for 90% of the time for me it seems flood is better, but I would like to have at least 1 light with awesome throw for distances.

Also this is what the Solarfoce people emailed me back and suggested I get:
Solarforce L2T 1 Mode XM-L T6 Cree led 820 Lumens forward clicky Flashlight18C Home & Car Charger COMBO SET
http://www.solarforce-sales.com/product_detail.php?t=LF&s=41&id=381

That set is $59.99, if you buy all of the pieces separately from that same site it would cost $65.47, so you are saving a little. But is that really a good deal? Or can I probably get those same accessories separately from a top rated seller on ebay for cheaper? The body isn't cheaper, it's actually a few bucks more on ebay usually, but the batteries, charger, and bulbs might be cheaper on ebay. Although that set is only a 1 mode light, not a 3 mode like you suggested. Thanks.

Eric

Quane_suikoden · Mar 11, 2012

Hey everyone, my name's Eric, I'm new to the whole custom build flashlight thing. I am of the mindset where one can never have too many flashlights, one for each room in the house at least I always say. And as of now I only have regular store bought ones. I want to build a few of my own custom lights because they're so much better than store bought ones. I am looking to build a Solarforce, probably the L2T as my first one, and then go on from there. So here are some questions:

1) What is the difference between Cree 4v-18v, Cree 4.2v-8.4v, Cree 0.8-4.2v, Xenon, P7, SST50, MCE, and XML bulbs? I see these all listed on Solarforces' sight, but am unsure of the difference, which is better etc.
2) What is better a forward or a reverse clicky? I have heard forward for single mode, reverse for multi mode, is this true? And why?
3) I have heard using an 18650 is better than using CR123's because they last much longer. Is this true?

And any other advice from anyone else would be great. I have been wanting to build my own for a while, but do not want to order the stuff until I am 100% sure of what I want.

Thanks everyone.
Eric

AnAppleSnail · Mar 12, 2012

Quane_suikoden said:
1) What is the difference between Cree 4v-18v, Cree 4.2v-8.4v, Cree 0.8-4.2v, Xenon, P7, SST50, MCE, and XML bulbs? I see these all listed on Solarforces' sight, but am unsure of the difference, which is better etc.

The voltage rating matters for the batteries you'll use. A 4.2v-8.4v light NEEDS 2 li-ions or 2 lithiums in series. A 1.8-4.2v light will burn out quickly with that setup. "Xenon" = filament bulb, less runtime than LED. The other things are LED types. Larger = floodier & more efficient, smaller = greater throw in a given reflector.
XP-E, XR-E, XP-G, XM-L, MC-E, P7 in order of size - check out the datasheets for each for more information. I suggest that you get a 3-mode XP-G or XM-L dropin, with a voltage range of 1.8-4.2v, along with a decent protected 18650 and charger.

2) What is better a forward or a reverse clicky? I have heard forward for single mode, reverse for multi mode, is this true? And why?

A reverse clicky pushes all the way in before it comes on, then half-presses are easy to do. You could push in, half-press half-press and get to the 3d mode.
A forward clicky can half-press before you push all the way in. You'd have to half-press half-press push in to get to the third mode. I find that there isn't much difference.

3) I have heard using an 18650 is better than using CR123's because they last much longer. Is this true?

An 18650 is bigger and holds its higher voltage for longer than a CR123. But an 18650 is a bit bigger than 2 CR123s. They're an easy no-brainer for solarforces. Get the build I suggested (3-mode, with a voltage range including 3.6v, XP-G or XM-L, and an 18650 and charger) and you'll have a starting point.

Info for a newbie?

Quane_suikoden

Newly Enlightened

Quane_suikoden

Newly Enlightened

AnAppleSnail

Flashlight Enthusiast

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