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Thread: FS: 1000 Lumen XM-L T6 Maglite Mod With Voltage Monitor - Parts, or Complete Light!

  1. #151

    Default Re: Throw observations with various reflectors and comparison to other lights

    Quote Originally Posted by nc_hooper View Post
    B - Large reflectors/heads – I have tested both the FM Throwmaster 2.5” head and FM3H-3 3” head. Both of these fit the Jayrob solution if you request a smaller post (12mm vs 14mm).
    Andy, Did your Jayrob light that you tested on have the voltage monitor ? I am interested in one of those heads, but wanted to see which one would actually fit the light (w/ a voltage monitor). TIA

  2. #152

    Default Re: Throw observations with various reflectors and comparison to other lights

    Double Post..

  3. #153

    Default Re: Throw observations with various reflectors and comparison to other lights

    Quote Originally Posted by Sparkss View Post
    Andy, Did your Jayrob light that you tested on have the voltage monitor ? I am interested in one of those heads, but wanted to see which one would actually fit the light (w/ a voltage monitor). TIA


    I can tell you that his did not have a voltage monitor installed...

    I have not personally tried the reflectors that he mentioned, but I have worked with (and offer) the LED Mag 'Rebel' build.

    And those ones will not fit the voltage monitor because the reflector is longer, and takes up more room. Smaller opening at the emitter as well. (12mm)

    nc_hooper, did your other reflectors have the similar 'long length' as well as the 12mm opening?

  4. #154

    Default Re: Throw observations with various reflectors and comparison to other lights

    Well,t he throwmaster is a new head (or at least a head extension) + reflector, which is why I thought that it might work.

    Worst case if I buy one and it doesn't fit the 2 cell, I could still use it on the stubby (right ?)

  5. #155

    Default Re: Throw observations with various reflectors and comparison to other lights

    Sparkss,

    I don't have the voltage monitor on my build. But I'll take a closer look tonight and compare the position of the throwmaster and 3" FM head compared to the stock head. I think they are quite similar in position.

    The other night I was taking a closer look at the throw, and the 3" FM head does slightly out throw the throwmaster. But not sure if this difference is worth the difference in weight and price.

    Andy

    PS - I did noticed a post about a used FM 3.5 inch head. Don't know anything about this head - not sure if it needs an adopter to run with the D Mag (neither of my FM heads need adopters). Also I wonder what the true diameter of this 3.5" head is. My 3" FM head is closer to 2.75". Link: http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?316832-Price-drop!-Fivemega-3.5-quot-head.

  6. #156

    Default Re: Throw observations with various reflectors and comparison to other lights

    Quote Originally Posted by Sparkss View Post
    Well,t he throwmaster is a new head (or at least a head extension) + reflector, which is why I thought that it might work.

    Worst case if I buy one and it doesn't fit the 2 cell, I could still use it on the stubby (right ?)
    If that reflector has a 12mm opening instead of a 14mm opening, it will not work with your build unless some modification is done...

    Also, not just the post and emitter size, but the over all length of the heatsink is not as long for the Rebel reflector build. Yours is the normal 'Stubby' build, and the heatsink has the extra skirt at the bottom with a spring. (see pictures first post)

    It has a little more mass than the custom heatsink that I would make for a Rebel reflector build...

    For nc_hooper's build, he had me size the heatsink post and emitter to 12mm because he wanted to be able to experiment with the different reflectors. I mention in the first post about this modification specifically for the Rebel (LED) Maglite... (which has a longer reflector with a smaller opening for the emitter)

  7. #157

    Default Re: Throw observations with various reflectors and comparison to other lights

    Quote Originally Posted by jayrob View Post
    I can tell you that his did not have a voltage monitor installed...

    I have not personally tried the reflectors that he mentioned, but I have worked with (and offer) the LED Mag 'Rebel' build.

    And those ones will not fit the voltage monitor because the reflector is longer, and takes up more room. Smaller opening at the emitter as well. (12mm)

    nc_hooper, did your other reflectors have the similar 'long length' as well as the 12mm opening?
    Jayrob and Sparkss,

    Last night I took a close look at the spacing - comparing my stock reflector with the FM throwmaster and FM 3". The spacing seemed to be the same - the FM heads do not seem to intrude any further into the fashlight tube (in contrast to the Rebel reflector).

    I do want to re-emphasize the Jayrob did reduce the post diameter from 14mm to 12mm - this was necessary to fit the holes in the FM heads.

    Andy

  8. #158

    Default Re: Throw observations with various reflectors and comparison to other lights

    Thanks for the feedback and info Andy !!

  9. #159

    Default Re: Throw observations with various reflectors and comparison to other lights

    I just received my light from jayrob. This is a superb build. His craftsmanship is top notch and very clean & neat. The light has great throw and is super bright. There are very few lights out there that can put out about 1000 lumens for about 2 hours. The voltage monitor is very cool. No need to worry about protected batteries, the multi colored lights tell you what's in your fuel tank. You will not be disappointed with this build. Thanks, Jay.
    I'm glad it is dark, half of the time.

  10. #160

    Default Re: Throw observations with various reflectors and comparison to other lights

    Quote Originally Posted by jdriller View Post
    I just received my light from jayrob. This is a superb build. His craftsmanship is top notch and very clean & neat. The light has great throw and is super bright. There are very few lights out there that can put out about 1000 lumens for about 2 hours. The voltage monitor is very cool. No need to worry about protected batteries, the multi colored lights tell you what's in your fuel tank. You will not be disappointed with this build. Thanks, Jay.
    Thanks for posting back!

    I'm getting over 3 hours with 32600's. I also have available some 32650's with a little more capacity vs the 32600's. You must be using the 26650's if your only getting 2 hours huh?

    Anyway, glad you like the build!

  11. #161

    Default Re: Throw observations with various reflectors and comparison to other lights



    Shanel, I sent your XM-L T6 Stubby build with battery and charger today...

    Hope you like it!

  12. #162

    Default Re: Throw observations with various reflectors and comparison to other lights

    I will be ordering a drop-in once I finally figure out exactly where/how the new soldered leads work with the drop-in. This will be my first Mag Mod so I'm not very familiar with the inner workings yet. Although my 2D is fully taken apart right now, and I've tried understanding the pictures in your thread at http://laserpointerforums.com/f66/ea...ice-59118.html but I have yet to figure out where the ground/black wire gets soldered to and how the red and black get routed through the switch to get to the drop-in. When I figure those things out I will be placing an order for one of these beasts.

  13. #163

    Default Re: FS: 1000 Lumen XM-L T6 Maglite Mod With Voltage Monitor - Parts, or Complete Ligh

    These are the two pictures I have questions about:





    On the first picture, where it says to add a solder mound. I have a tiny spring in that spot, and it seems that my small cavity located in that spot is about 3 times as deep as the one in your picture. This switch is from a 2D Mag (Incan. of course). I'm wondering do I remove my little tiny spring and place a larger mound of solder to match the height of the solder in your picture?

    On the second picture, I am a little confused on how much I should cut off the black plastic part, and then also, where does that black wire actually connect to?

    I'm sorry if these are stupid questions, as this is my first Mag Mod and I try to buy once and buy the best so I've been waiting to figure out how to do this before buying it. I also like to do things myself just so I learn how to do it.

  14. #164
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    Crazy Re: FS: 1000 Lumen XM-L T6 Maglite Mod With Voltage Monitor - Parts, or Complete Ligh

    Quote Originally Posted by simplec6 View Post
    These are the two pictures I have questions about:





    On the first picture, where it says to add a solder mound. I have a tiny spring in that spot, and it seems that my small cavity located in that spot is about 3 times as deep as the one in your picture. This switch is from a 2D Mag (Incan. of course). I'm wondering do I remove my little tiny spring and place a larger mound of solder to match the height of the solder in your picture?

    On the second picture, I am a little confused on how much I should cut off the black plastic part, and then also, where does that black wire actually connect to?

    I'm sorry if these are stupid questions, as this is my first Mag Mod and I try to buy once and buy the best so I've been waiting to figure out how to do this before buying it. I also like to do things myself just so I learn how to do it.
    Simplec6, I came up with the same questions while working on a few different mods. To answer your first question, there have been several design changes in Maglites as production has gone on through the years. The older lights had a spring to contact the positive battery terminal. This should be plenty to contact the battery in your mod. The picture shows the current style where they use a bowed strip of aluminum in place of the spring. Since it's not as tall as the spring, the blob of solder helps ensure good contact with the lithium ion batteries.

    As to your second question, you can cut the tower on the switch housing all the way down flush to the base of the housing itself. I used a dremel to cut away most of it and smoothed the top of the switch housing with a fine file. The black wire is soldered to the grounding strip that is exposed when you cut away the plastic bulb tower. You can cut it down to a height just above the switch tower, and if you fold it back on itself once, it will give you a nice place to get a good solder joint.

    Also, I just wanted to say, that I am very pleased with the set-up that Jayrob makes. I purchased the complete light (2D with voltage monitor) from him, and it is pretty much my go-to light. You won't be sorry whether you have him build it, or buy the parts from him. I also put an orange peel aluminum reflector from Kaidomain.com in mine, and I love the beam! Hope all this helps.

  15. #165
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    Default Re: Throw observations with various reflectors and comparison to other lights

    Quote Originally Posted by simplec6 View Post
    I will be ordering a drop-in once I finally figure out exactly where/how the new soldered leads work with the drop-in. This will be my first Mag Mod so I'm not very familiar with the inner workings yet. Although my 2D is fully taken apart right now, and I've tried understanding the pictures in your thread at http://laserpointerforums.com/f66/ea...ice-59118.html but I have yet to figure out where the ground/black wire gets soldered to and how the red and black get routed through the switch to get to the drop-in. When I figure those things out I will be placing an order for one of these beasts.
    Also as to above, the red wire gets soldered to the exposed metal contact on top of the switch(right in the center of the hole on top of the housing). I'm pretty sure Jay's drop-in comes with the two wires already soldered to the board. Most companies don't give you a whole lot of extra wire to work with, though so you may want to solder your own short leads to the switch and then solder those to the ones coming off of the circuit board.

  16. #166

    Default Re: Throw observations with various reflectors and comparison to other lights

    Quote Originally Posted by simplec6 View Post
    I will be ordering a drop-in once I finally figure out exactly where/how the new soldered leads work with the drop-in. This will be my first Mag Mod so I'm not very familiar with the inner workings yet. Although my 2D is fully taken apart right now, and I've tried understanding the pictures in your thread at http://laserpointerforums.com/f66/ea...ice-59118.html but I have yet to figure out where the ground/black wire gets soldered to and how the red and black get routed through the switch to get to the drop-in. When I figure those things out I will be placing an order for one of these beasts.

    Yes as tjhabak had mentioned, the negative is just that metal strip. The path to the batteries is simply, that it gets grounded to the host with the screw that holds the switch in place. (as you tighten the set screw that holds the switch in place)

    If your not installing the voltage monitor, there is plenty of room inside, and you really don't have to cut or sand the plastic all the way flat when you remove the bulb stem. But if you need room, you can sand it all the way flat like this:








    tjhabak, glad you like the build!

  17. #167

    Default Re: Throw observations with various reflectors and comparison to other lights

    Quote Originally Posted by tjhabak View Post
    As to your second question, you can cut the tower on the switch housing all the way down flush to the base of the housing itself. I used a dremel to cut away most of it and smoothed the top of the switch housing with a fine file. The black wire is soldered to the grounding strip that is exposed when you cut away the plastic bulb tower. You can cut it down to a height just above the switch tower, and if you fold it back on itself once, it will give you a nice place to get a good solder joint.
    Thank you very much for taking your time to help me out. I appreciate it very much.

    I have figured out where to solder the red wire now, but I am still having trouble figuring out where I solder my black wire that will connect to the black lead on the drop-in. I have already cut the whole tower part off, but I am just not seeing the "grounding strip that is exposed when you cut away the plastic bulb tower". Is the the strip that is that little metal prong thing that holds the set screw that holds the switch in place inside the mag-lite? I haven't figured out if I actually re-use that long flat metal piece that has the nut installed on the end of it?! I see that it is supposed to go up inside the wall of the 'tower' part but now that there is no 'tower' for that metal strip to go inside I figured it is no longer needed or used. Any insight on if I use that metal strip with the nut on it or if I don't use it for this drop-in?
    I think if I figure out where the black wire is soldered to the switch I will have this dang thing figured out!




    Quote Originally Posted by tjhabak View Post
    Also as to above, the red wire gets soldered to the exposed metal contact on top of the switch(right in the center of the hole on top of the housing).
    Great, this is awesome info. so I've got this part figured out! I'm guessing that I'll have to do the soldering while the blue switch is inside the tower housing, correct?

    Quote Originally Posted by jayrob View Post
    Yes as tjhabak had mentioned, the negative is just that metal strip. The path to the batteries is simply, that it gets grounded to the host with the screw that holds the switch in place. (as you tighten the set screw that holds the switch in place)
    Ok, cool! I will not be doing the V monitor for now, but i do have the tower cut off now and everything is filed down and good to go just like your picture, but I am not seeing this metal strip (I am starting to think the metal strip is the thing with the set-nut on it, but I do not see where that long thing metal strip should be routed when there is no 'tower' for it to go inside like it was in stock form. Maybe the metal strip needs to be cut?

    Thanks for all the help guys, I am still trying to read through numerous other Mag Mod threads to see if I can get this dang negative wire thing figured out.

  18. #168

    Default Re: Throw observations with various reflectors and comparison to other lights

    Yes correct... The nut is the battery negative. The little set screw pierces into the inside of the host. Remember that the host itself is the negative. (via the negative end of the batteries to the tail spring/cap)

    Just cut the flat piece of metal shorter, and solder your negative lead to it. The negative wire will end up coming out of the small rectangular hole shown in this picture:


  19. #169

    Default Re: FS: 1000 Lumen XM-L T6 Maglite Mod With Voltage Monitor - Parts, or Complete Ligh

    PM sent

  20. #170

    Default Re: FS: 1000 Lumen XM-L T6 Maglite Mod With Voltage Monitor - Parts, or Complete Ligh

    Quote Originally Posted by DrSwiger View Post
    PM sent
    Got you covered...


  21. #171

    Default Re: FS: 1000 Lumen XM-L T6 Maglite Mod With Voltage Monitor - Parts, or Complete Ligh

    Alright, where to begin...

    Well first let me say that jayrob is a fantastic guy and here is why;

    I read all about his mod and decided I wanted to take a shot at building my own because I had no job for the summer and was bored. I ordered the parts and began building the light. I ran into some problems, (fried the driver when soldering), used to 18 ga wire instead of 22 ga which made it harder to work with. But jayrob was always there to help me out along the way. I am pretty sure I could not have built this without his help. My build is by no means even close to jayrob's MagLite builds. You will see that I scratched the Maglite near the switch when drilling a hole for the fiber optic cable. Also, the hole is not perfectly aligned. Furthermore, I over-handled my switch to the point where it is not as "clicky" as it should be but it is functional. I will probably reorder the switch and do it again to get that nice clicky feel.

    Now that I have done this mod I know my second one will come out perfect. I have a feeling my Dad is going to want me to do this mod to his MagLite. Overall, I spent more than jayrob's prices because I had to buy wire, soldering iron, solder, solder flux, fried first driver, etc..but it was fun and worth every buck. Now I can show it off to all my family and have the satisfaction of building it on my own.

    Anyhow here are the pics and video, thank you jayrob for all your wonderful help.



    Here is the thick wire I used but later changed it to 22 ga


    LED Voltage monitor installed


    Video! Here I compare it to a Chinese bought Cree Q5 led. The Mag-Lite is brighter even though my Evo 3D camera cannot show it.




  22. #172

    Default Re: FS: 1000 Lumen XM-L T6 Maglite Mod With Voltage Monitor - Parts, or Complete Ligh

    I might as well join the video show fun with my own personally modified maglite.

    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7H6jesM_wAM

    fishnugget I made my first mod more difficult also with using higher gauge than I needed to.
    This time around I used some of the 26 gauge wire floating around on this site.
    The smaller gauge made it all much easier and time will tell whether it will hold up.

    This modification is what a good project is all about.
    A fairly simple straight forward way to improve every aspect of the Maglite host.
    Now I just want to build another one.
    Thanks Jayrob

    Side note I drilled the hole a little lower i.e. it begins to "encroach" on the arch.
    From what I can tell from the pictures of his mods he seems to do that. ???

  23. #173

    Default Re: FS: 1000 Lumen XM-L T6 Maglite Mod With Voltage Monitor - Parts, or Complete Ligh

    Hey thanks for posting back you guys...

    Glad you like the build!

    About the fiber optic plug for the voltage monitor. I put it just above the 'arch'. Not touching the machined out area of the switch:



    Getting it perfectly centered, is one of the trickiest parts of this mod. It's almost an optical illusion because of the oval shape of the machined out area at the side switch...

  24. #174

    Default Re: FS: 1000 Lumen XM-L T6 Maglite Mod With Voltage Monitor - Parts, or Complete Ligh

    Getting it perfectly centered, is one of the trickiest parts of this mod. It's almost an optical illusion because of the oval shape of the machined out area at the side switch...
    I actually put the Maglite in a partially open vise and used a small line level over the opening to get that perfect placement although I did encroach on the 'arch'
    I hope I didn't ruin the structural integrity of the light.
    I would hate if it fell apart in my hands.

    Thanks again

  25. #175

    Default Re: FS: 1000 Lumen XM-L T6 Maglite Mod With Voltage Monitor - Parts, or Complete Ligh

    Quote Originally Posted by Inkidu View Post
    I actually put the Maglite in a partially open vise and used a small line level over the opening to get that perfect placement although I did encroach on the 'arch'
    I hope I didn't ruin the structural integrity of the light.
    I would hate if it fell apart in my hands.

    Thanks again
    Fall apart! No way! These things are tough as nails!

    Anyway, glad you got it built. (and like it)



    TheCoon, just to let you know that I'm sending yours today! Let me know how you like it...

  26. #176

    Default Re: FS: 1000 Lumen XM-L T6 Maglite Mod With Voltage Monitor - Parts, or Complete Ligh

    Quote Originally Posted by jayrob View Post
    Fall apart! No way! These things are tough as nails!
    I am from Pennsylvania and I am keystone biased.

    I want to build a Cree U2 mod with the 32650 from Novae Products.
    I hope I can get the tail mod right.

    PM sent

    Side note
    The newest Maglite that I purchased does seem to give a little more room for the 32650 cells than my first Maglite.

  27. #177
    Enlightened killforfood's Avatar
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    Default Re: FS: 1000 Lumen XM-L T6 Maglite Mod With Voltage Monitor - Parts, or Complete Ligh

    I donít know why itís so hard to find efficient three mode drivers without the dopey flashey modes but it is. I guess the driver used in this light is as good as it gets from KD or DX.
    I read all nine reviews on Kaidomain for the driver used in this light (3 Amp, 3 mode driver) and they repeatedly list two main problems with this driver: over- heating (translation, poor efficiency) and an output much lower than the listed 3.0A.
    Jayrob solves the heat problem by mounting the driver in the heat sink. It must be adequate since I donít read any reports of over heated drivers dropping into low mode.
    The thing that has me wondering about the low output reports is if some of the folks writing the reviews were measuring battery draw instead of at the emitter. this graph on Kaidomain as well as Jayrobs measurements appear to support that. What do you guys think?
    Iím shooting for max runtimes on high.
    Is there a more efficient driver in this price range?
    A three mode driver that maxed at 2.8 would certainly cut down on heat and be more efficient with minimal reduction in light output.
    KD TEST:

    Input Voltage and Current: (Average Test )


    Voltage ---Low-------Mid-----High

    5.5V ------0.20A----1.05A---2.00A

    7.2V ------0.17A----0.85A---1.60A
    9.0V-------0.15A----0.70A---1.35A
    11.1V-----0.13A---- 0.60A---1.15A
    13.2V-----0.13A---- 0.53A---1.00A







    Jayrob test
    Current readings: (High/medium/low)

    Measured at the emitter:
    * High - 3100mA's
    * Medium - 948mA's
    * Low - 157mA's

    Measured at the tail: (battery current draw from 2 X 32600 Li-Ion's)
    * High - 1575mA's... Estimated run time - Over 3 hours!
    * Medium - 525mA's... Estimated run time - 9 1/2 hours at about 350 lumens!
    * Low - 114mA's - Estimated run time - 43 hours!

    That's using 5000mAh capacity 32600's. This modification will also fit 6000mAh 32650's with a really easy tail cap spring modification...



    Interesting... I just noticed that Kaidomain's own testing indicates that their drivers output is actually 2.8. Cool

    Output Voltage:
    2.8A(High)~ 1.38A(Middle)~0.25A(Low) --at any voltage level from 5.5V to 13.2V---Current regulated
    Caution: No more than 3 D-size Li-ion Batteries (4.0V~12.0V) for protection this LED board

  28. #178

    Default Re: FS: 1000 Lumen XM-L T6 Maglite Mod With Voltage Monitor - Parts, or Complete Ligh


    $60

    Thanks

  29. #179

    Default Re: FS: 1000 Lumen XM-L T6 Maglite Mod With Voltage Monitor - Parts, or Complete Ligh

    Quote Originally Posted by killforfood View Post
    I don’t know why it’s so hard to find efficient three mode drivers without the dopey flashey modes but it is. I guess the driver used in this light is as good as it gets from KD or DX.
    I read all nine reviews on Kaidomain for the driver used in this light (3 Amp, 3 mode driver) and they repeatedly list two main problems with this driver: over- heating (translation, poor efficiency) and an output much lower than the listed 3.0A.
    Jayrob solves the heat problem by mounting the driver in the heat sink. It must be adequate since I don’t read any reports of over heated drivers dropping into low mode.
    The thing that has me wondering about the low output reports is if some of the folks writing the reviews were measuring battery draw instead of at the emitter. this graph on Kaidomain as well as Jayrobs measurements appear to support that. What do you guys think?
    I’m shooting for max runtimes on high.
    Is there a more efficient driver in this price range?
    A three mode driver that maxed at 2.8 would certainly cut down on heat and be more efficient with minimal reduction in light output.
    KD TEST:

    Input Voltage and Current: (Average Test )


    Voltage ---Low-------Mid-----High

    5.5V ------0.20A----1.05A---2.00A

    7.2V ------0.17A----0.85A---1.60A
    9.0V-------0.15A----0.70A---1.35A
    11.1V-----0.13A---- 0.60A---1.15A
    13.2V-----0.13A---- 0.53A---1.00A







    Jayrob test
    Current readings: (High/medium/low)

    Measured at the emitter:
    * High - 3100mA's
    * Medium - 948mA's
    * Low - 157mA's

    Measured at the tail: (battery current draw from 2 X 32600 Li-Ion's)
    * High - 1575mA's... Estimated run time - Over 3 hours!
    * Medium - 525mA's... Estimated run time - 9 1/2 hours at about 350 lumens!
    * Low - 114mA's - Estimated run time - 43 hours!

    That's using 5000mAh capacity 32600's. This modification will also fit 6000mAh 32650's with a really easy tail cap spring modification...



    Interesting... I just noticed that Kaidomain's own testing indicates that their drivers output is actually 2.8. Cool

    Output Voltage:
    2.8A(High)~ 1.38A(Middle)~0.25A(Low) --at any voltage level from 5.5V to 13.2V---Current regulated
    Caution: No more than 3 D-size Li-ion Batteries (4.0V~12.0V) for protection this LED board




    Killforfood, keep in mind that their testing does not mention what emitter. Possibly the P7. (since they are calling it a P7 driver)

    Also, their testing does not show what current at the emitter. It is only showing current draw from the supply. Not sure what kind of supply either. Possibly a bench supply by looking at the voltage readings they list??

    My readings are specifically for the XM-L emitter shown for this build, and I also show exactly what supply batteries are used for the readings. (ability to give current may vary with different quality batteries as well)

    Plus, I tested for current readings at the emitter, as well as current draw from the batteries.

    Possibly the overheating problems you mentioned were with a less efficient emitter. I would make that guess based on the success of my XM-L build. Please read the feedback comments from buyers here:
    http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/...=1#post3899217

    One other thing that I want to mention about supply voltage. Although the driver specs mention that you can use 3 X Li-Ion's, do not do that with the XM-L emitter. It will give the emitter too much voltage and kill it. Possibly with other emitters (like maybe the P7), it will be fine. But I am not recommending 3 X Li-Ion's with the XM-L from my experience with this build.

    You can go 5 X NiMH's, or even 6. But 2 X large format Li-Ion's with the voltage monitor is the ticket! (and the most popular build that I am getting orders for)





    Inkidu, got you covered...
    Last edited by jayrob; 11-22-2012 at 10:47 AM.

  30. #180
    Enlightened killforfood's Avatar
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    Default Re: FS: 1000 Lumen XM-L T6 Maglite Mod With Voltage Monitor - Parts, or Complete Ligh

    Jayrob,

    Thanks for your thorough response.
    Happy customers donít lie. After reading all of the feedback comments; I have to build a couple of these lights!!!

    I have a few questions concerning the build:

    1. You didnít mention where to get the fiber optic. What did you use? Did it come with the voltage monitor?

    2. Have you compared the dimensions of your heat sink with H22Aís? Iím using his heat sinks and am a bit concerned about having adequate space for the electronics.
    How deep into the tube is the bottom of your sink with the stock reflector?

    Thank goodness you live in the state of Jefferson. This light would be known to cause cancer in the state of Kalifornia.

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