Doing my very first customized light on a bored C2 chassis host

tobrien

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Dec 16, 2005
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so I think it's about time I got a bored-out Surefire to use as a host and graduate from buying all "off-the-shelf lights"

I was thinking the custom bored Surefire C2 HA grey would be the one to get. is that the best choice?

additionally, of course I'll need a drop-in. My thoughts are that I should look for a drop in that does well with single 18650s, is that a correct assumption? or are they all the same pretty much??

Are Nailbenders/NBs the ones to get? I think it'd be way cool to get a colored SST-90 drop-in, but would those work well or have really short battery life on a single 3100 mAh 18650?

p.s.: does the Oveready link above mean it does come with everything and all I need to supply is the drop-in and battery?

thanks guys! I'm really scatterbrained in this post, so I apologize if it reads rather poorly
 

mcstew

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Jan 14, 2012
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yup, that host is ready to go... just add engine and fuel.

i've never used any of nailbender's drop-ins. you can customize pieces of the tailcap and bezel with your order, if you want to.

have fun!
 

fl0t

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Mar 10, 2011
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yifu

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Oct 15, 2011
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There are a lot of good drop in makers, Malkoff, Vinhnguyen, Kerberos Quad, VanIsleDSM quad, Torchlab and Nailbender, i have most of them but in terms of pure output the quad XPGs take the cake. 18650 use is normally fine but you should watch out as some drop ins are optimised for higher voltages, especially the incan hotwires (Fivemega G4/T1.5 sockets etc).

In terms of runtime, 1 3100mah 18650 with a NB 2.8A XML will give around 1.5hours of useable output. Direct drive SST90s will give about the same as well as the Vf of that emitter is very high and people struggle to get past 3A from a LiCo 18650.

Lastly, when buying the host, make sure to add in a McClicky or a ZeroRez or get an aftermarket high current switch like a FETtie. This is because a stock SF clicky is only rated for about 2-2.5A and will suffer diminished life cycle due to electrode arcing. The stock Z41 twisty won't melt past 7A or so but it will add resistance to the circuit and not to mention a twisty interface isn't really user friendly. In a direct drive light, that results in more output, in a regulated drop in, it results in more runtime. I have the results done by Moodo (Triple XPG maker) here. What you see the lux generated by the drop in using different switches. A ZeroRez/Fet should give close to 100%.
Wire (6 inch 12 gauge) = 100%
Fluke/heavy leads (5.04A)= 98%
McClicky kit in Z41 (new) = 92%
Surefire Z59 clicky (new) = 90.6%
Surefire Z41 twisty (new) = 79.6%
 

Sgt. LED

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Sep 4, 2007
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I've trashed the Oveready C2 and Z2 hosts in testing with quite a bit of effort.
You know it's the right product for you when after destroying the samples you go ahead and order replacements to just regularly use. :)
If you don't think you will use the clip that much give a little thought to the Z2. Something about it
 

Matt7337

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Nov 5, 2008
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Northern Ireland
I got my first Surefire host in the middle of last year - a Natural/OD coloured C2 expertly bored by Precisionworks - and I haven't looked back since. I didn't really understand what the "Surefire difference" was until I got my hands on the C2. It's not that any of my Chinese/Korean/Taiwanese/Japanese made lights aren't well made, it's just that the Surefires are made that little bit better. I don't own a single flashlight that I don't trust or wouldn't rely on in any situation, but the Surefires are just that little bit more. My Fenix, Nitecore, Bitz, Dereelight (etc etc) lights all go to 10, but the Surefires definitley go to 11 ;) Combined with the brilliant reliability and performance of a Malkoff (M60) dropin, the C2 Centurion is easily one of my favourite "big" lights (I haven't moved past 1x18650 lights yet, other than my Malkoff 3D Mag) and one that I don't think I'll ever get rid of. It's currently doing a regular rotation in my site toolbox with my well tried and extremely heavily tested Fenix TK11 R5. One week I'll carry the TK11, the next I'll take the C2 and so on. I'm never in any doubt that I have a lot of light in my toolbox, whichever one I've got :)
 
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^Gurthang

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If you're really considering a SST 50/90 then you're in the IMR battery realm. Trying to draw more than 3+ amps from a LiCo 18650 can be hazardous. Get some AW IMR-18650 or 18350 cells, not much run time but much safer.
 
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