SureFire KX2 LED head and tailcap from a E2L Outdoorsman on a E1L Outdoorsman

benthiccracker

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I put a SureFire KX2 LED head and tailcap from a E2L Outdoorsman on a E1L Outdoorsman and it does not light with a SureFire factory primary. The E2L works fine. I even put a brand new primary in the E1L and it still didn't work . What gives LED gurus? If this is not a viable option what do I need to get to make the lil one work?
 

benthiccracker

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Thats what the 2 in KX2 means, 2 batteries.
If I read you right then you need more voltage.
yes sir you did. I am bummed because a brand new E1L Outdoorsman sells for $139 (on SF.com) but the KX1 head that comes on it costs $150... WTH SureFire?!? Anyway, do the old-skool incan E1E heads that I see on CPFM quite often work on a E1L Outdoorsman body?
 

archimedes

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I am a bit confused as to what you are exactly trying to do :thinking:

The KX1 (& older KL1) are designed to run on 3v (single primary cell), while the KX2 (& newer KX2C) are designed to run on 6v (two primaries).

The E1L includes a KX1, but indeed has a lower MSRP than the KX1 alone. The E2L includes a KX2, and its MSRP is slightly higher than the KX2 alone.

The E1E/E2E bezel(s) are thread-compatible with all E-series battery tubes, but of course, are designed for an incandescent lamp. The lamp chosen will depend on the voltage supplied (3v, 6v, other?).

There are aftermarket drop-ins available for E-series bezels with various voltage requirements, output level(s), and tints. There are also alternate E-series compatible replacement heads, as well as aftermarket incandescent lamps (which may also permit different inputs and outputs).
 
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benthiccracker

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I am a bit confused as to what you are exactly trying to do :thinking:

The KX1 (& older KL1) are designed to run on 3v (single primary cell), while the KX2 (& newer KX2C) are designed to run on 6v (two primaries).

The E1L includes a KX1, but indeed has a lower MSRP than the KX1 alone. The E2L includes a KX2, and its MSRP is slightly higher than the KX2 alone.

The E1E/E2E bezel(s) are thread-compatible with all E-series battery tubes, but of course, are designed for an incandescent lamp. The lamp chosen will depend on the voltage supplied (3v, 6v, other?).

There are aftermarket drop-ins available for E-series bezels with various voltage requirements, output level(s), and tints. There are also alternate E-series compatible replacement heads, as well as aftermarket incandescent lamps (which may also permit different inputs and outputs).
I bought a E1L body without doing my homework. I already had a E2L and I thought I could just swap parts. Not the case as I found out. Soooooo I think I am going to get a Malkoff Titanium VME head and get a M31W to go on the E1L body. I am pretty sure I can do this and it will work. I would rather plunk the amount down for a Malkoff setup than about the equivalent for a stock SureFire LED head (KX1). I would get more Lumens a better tint and a head built of Ti. UNLESS I happen to spot something on CPFM that is way less.
 

Gatsby

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another option is to run the kx2 on the e1 body with an rcr123 - I do that with my kx2 and e1l body and it works great

I can't guarantee that high on the kx2 is as bright as 2 primaries but its close

runtime will be a good bit less of course (the e2l is one of the most efficient surefires ever)
 

benthiccracker

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another option is to run the kx2 on the e1 body with an rcr123 - I do that with my kx2 and e1l body and it works great

I can't guarantee that high on the kx2 is as bright as 2 primaries but its close

runtime will be a good bit less of course (the e2l is one of the most efficient surefires ever)
that sounds like a good plan too. I am so glad I found this place although together with CPFM the wallet is getting extremely light.
 

benthiccracker

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the way I see it though these are really investments. Especially some of those Mac and McGizmo torches. As long as you take care of it, it will hold it's value or even go up in value. I was wondering when I would be enlightened... Had to edit this. Woo hoo!
 

Blindasabat

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I second Gatsby's suggestion. You will be glad you made the jump to Lithium Ion rechargeables for the cost alone, but they give you some voltage flexibility at times like this. I almost always use my KX2 on a single cell body. You will usually only have to recharge every few days at most - and if you do then they are even more worth it to keep you from going poor buying batteries. Depending on usage, you may go weeks between charges, which is more likely if it is not your only light to share EDC duties.
 

benthiccracker

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I have a 4 bay charger on the way. I am getting a 6P & 9P bored by Oveready for 18mm batteries. I will be set up for charging then. The RCR123 route for now sounds like the best plan. I am trying to put off buying anything Ti because that door once opened doesn't ever shut! I have several two cell "P" and "G" series lights. My E2L was kinda collecting dust. I thought if I had an economical way to get a one cell body I would use it more. So looks like I will be...
 
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