How does one avoid overdischarging 18650 battery in Zebralight SC600?

I've read that overdischarging a Lithium Ion battery is a good way to ruin it. In the Zebralight SC600 how does one avoid overdischarging the 18650 battery?

the SC600 cuts off at 2.8v so no worries at all!

the ArmyTek Predator does the same thing

and if the Light does not shut off, the circuit of the PROTECTED cell does ...

using anything else - when one is of this more and more increasing number of "afraid" ppl - is simply dumb

Cool, I got AW batteries so I've got both bases covered.

I've run my SC600 until it shuts itself off many times without incident.

I thought i told you that there was an auto cut off at 2.8V back when you posted a thread asking about the best 18650 batteries? It really helps to search up on a topic before posting a thread, especially when the cutoff is detailed in the user's manual...

You shouldn't let your 18650 run down to 2.8v. Just get in the habit of charging it often if you use it often. I wouldn't go under 3.4v. Test with a multimeter to get a feel for consumption.

With great power comes great responsibility...

Well more than 2 weeks ago (17 days in fact), in response to your thread on "Why use rebranded batteries for Zebralight H600?" i posted this

"You could if you wish! The H600 has a nice auto cutoff at 2.8V so it is quite safe. However, in lights without that cutoff it would be more advisable to get a protected cell like a Kallie's Kustom, Redilast or AW. They all have a PCB circuit that cut offs when either over discharge, overcharge or over current is detected. All of which WILL cause the cell to vent under different circumstances, hence, the vent hole you see at the tip... And venting in a waterproofed light is a bit like a hand grenade... But most often, people who have ran torture tests just find that the gas escapes through the glass window and destroys the light, instead of exploding, which is a good thing."

And others in that thread have repeated the same proposition that there is a solid cutoff on that Zebralight and therefore a protected cell was not really required per se unless a double failsafe was desired. I'm not trying to be a "smartguy" and in fact there is no tacit implication of that at all in my post. I was simply trying to save some clutter as i believed reasonably that the question had been answered.

Regarding the 3.4V point, going below 3.4V won't hurt most 18650s at all, in fact the NCRs are designed to discharge down to 2.5V so you lose part of its capacity at 3.4V. The 3.4V is true for older Li-on cells but AW didn't update that spec for his newer cells, leading to some confusion.

Lastly 18650 cells can be found almost everywhere, although most consumers are not aware of that fact. They can be found in laptop battery packs, power tools, portable drills/electric screwdrivers, portable mobile device charging packs etc. Li-on cells can be found in a greater range of mobile electronics from phones, ipods et al.

yifu said:

Well more than 2 weeks ago (17 days in fact), in response to your thread on "Why use rebranded batteries for Zebralight H600?" i posted this

"You could if you wish! The H600 has a nice auto cutoff at 2.8V so it is quite safe. However, in lights without that cutoff it would be more advisable to get a protected cell like a Kallie's Kustom, Redilast or AW. They all have a PCB circuit that cut offs when either over discharge, overcharge or over current is detected. All of which WILL cause the cell to vent under different circumstances, hence, the vent hole you see at the tip... And venting in a waterproofed light is a bit like a hand grenade... But most often, people who have ran torture tests just find that the gas escapes through the glass window and destroys the light, instead of exploding, which is a good thing."

And others in that thread have repeated the same proposition that there is a solid cutoff on that Zebralight and therefore a protected cell was not really required per se unless a double failsafe was desired. I'm not trying to be a "smartguy" and in fact there is no tacit implication of that at all in my post. I was simply trying to save some clutter as i believed reasonably that the question had been answered.

Regarding the 3.4V point, going below 3.4V won't hurt most 18650s at all, in fact the NCRs are designed to discharge down to 2.5V so you lose part of its capacity at 3.4V. The 3.4V is true for older Li-on cells but AW didn't update that spec for his newer cells, leading to some confusion.

Click to expand...

THIS is what you choose to pick a fight over? This is the kind of thing that never fails to remind me that the world is full of very small pathetic people. This piece of information was amongst about 100 other things I was learning about lights and batteries at the time and I asked again. SO WHAT?