When I look at some of the awesome builds of some of the members here, I am almost embarrassed to post this. Still, I'm so enamored of the Nichia 219 4500k 92 CRI emitters, and the Haiku is my all time favorite light, so what the heck - let's try and mod that beauty. Bear in mind, I have no 'good tools' for such things, even though I have a decent soldering station en route.
Patience is not a virtue I am possessed with, so while waiting for my soldering station I searched for other means to complete the mod
Having never modded a light engine before, and it seemed like heresy for me to even consider modding a Haiku engine, but that's what I did.
Here are a few crude photos - I wish I had better documented the process!
The victim - a McGizmo warm XPG light engine
The MCPCB separates with little effort, although it is snug when it is in place
I removed the old emitter using my smooth stove burner - reflowed the Nichia the same way. Sorry there are not more photos!
I was surprised at how well the emitter 'centered itself' on the board. After this, it was as simple as reconnecting the leads, dropping the board back into the can, and screwing everything back together. Imagine my surprise when it worked - the first time!
So in my sphere I'm getting (Lo, Med, High) approximately 5, 30 and 120 lumen of an absolutely beautiful beam. I still have my 119 engine, and it's still one of my favorites, but this 219 in the Haiku looks awesome. (I realize you have no point of reference, but this is pretty darn close to what the beam looks like to my eyes)
I have to say - after 'cracking open' a few light heads just to see what was going on in there, I have a new respect for Don's design. Everything is put together tightly and precisely, but his design allows for easy modding. I was impressed that he even leaves a bit of extra length on the leads from the driver to the board. For those of us overzealous, clumsy modder wanna bees it's nice that when we are removing the MCPCB from the 'can', the extra length avoids a forced disconnect on one of the leads.
My ramblings can only serve to illuminate
the obvious fact that I don't know much about modifying these lights, and I have a new found respect for all you gifted modders and tinkerers out there! My next planned victims are a ThruNite T10 and Ti, and if I'm really feeling brave, a Fenix PD20.
Finally, I have to say that the McGizmo Haiku continues to impress with it's utility and elegant simplicity. As emitters evolve, those of us fortunate enough to own McGizmos will probably have an easy time of keeping our lights 'updated.' Thanks, Don!
Patience is not a virtue I am possessed with, so while waiting for my soldering station I searched for other means to complete the mod
Having never modded a light engine before, and it seemed like heresy for me to even consider modding a Haiku engine, but that's what I did.
Here are a few crude photos - I wish I had better documented the process!
The victim - a McGizmo warm XPG light engine
The MCPCB separates with little effort, although it is snug when it is in place
I removed the old emitter using my smooth stove burner - reflowed the Nichia the same way. Sorry there are not more photos!
I was surprised at how well the emitter 'centered itself' on the board. After this, it was as simple as reconnecting the leads, dropping the board back into the can, and screwing everything back together. Imagine my surprise when it worked - the first time!
So in my sphere I'm getting (Lo, Med, High) approximately 5, 30 and 120 lumen of an absolutely beautiful beam. I still have my 119 engine, and it's still one of my favorites, but this 219 in the Haiku looks awesome. (I realize you have no point of reference, but this is pretty darn close to what the beam looks like to my eyes)
I have to say - after 'cracking open' a few light heads just to see what was going on in there, I have a new respect for Don's design. Everything is put together tightly and precisely, but his design allows for easy modding. I was impressed that he even leaves a bit of extra length on the leads from the driver to the board. For those of us overzealous, clumsy modder wanna bees it's nice that when we are removing the MCPCB from the 'can', the extra length avoids a forced disconnect on one of the leads.
My ramblings can only serve to illuminate
the obvious fact that I don't know much about modifying these lights, and I have a new found respect for all you gifted modders and tinkerers out there! My next planned victims are a ThruNite T10 and Ti, and if I'm really feeling brave, a Fenix PD20.Finally, I have to say that the McGizmo Haiku continues to impress with it's utility and elegant simplicity. As emitters evolve, those of us fortunate enough to own McGizmos will probably have an easy time of keeping our lights 'updated.' Thanks, Don!
