I picked up a nice SF 951 in trade last week and bought a Malkoff M61 conversion after doing alot of looking online as the best way to go. It came in today and i hurriedly took my light apart to put in my new hot rod LED and the "neck" piece will not screw down with the new LED conversion in there? Any of you guys have a similar issue? Did I buy the wrong conversion for my light? Any way to make this one work? Any help is appreciated!
Surefire M951 wep light LED conversion.
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bstrickler
Enlightened
Is there a small gap, or does the M61 just not fit inside the collar?
If it just doesn't fit in the collar, you need the collar bored. This is common for the Weaponlight series with the LU60. I have a 951, as well, but I just haven't gotten around to sending the LU60 out to get bored.
~Brian
If it just doesn't fit in the collar, you need the collar bored. This is common for the Weaponlight series with the LU60. I have a 951, as well, but I just haven't gotten around to sending the LU60 out to get bored.
~Brian
bstrickler
Enlightened
A lot of members do boring services. Check out the Custom & modified B/S/T, and ask around. I know Wquiles, Jesus Hernandez, and I think Cmaccel do modding services. My guess is $25-$60, depending on their labor charges.
Thank you for your help, i think I might just try and find a P90L drop in. I've got $60ish invested in the Malkoff that is unusable in the platform that I wanted it for, so i think I'll cut my losses and just run a lower powered unit.
Machete God
Enlightened
Not sure which iteration of the M951 you have, but here's how I got one to work, without any boring whatsoever (this M951 had the newer M2 head with hex anti-roll, and the LU60 adapter with the 6 semi-circular cutouts to aid grip when removing).
You'll need to remove the black plastic spacer ring thingy inside the LU60 adapter collar, that has 6 tabs holding it in place. If you don't want to break the tabs, you'll need 3 toothpicks - break each one into half and use the halves to hold the tab open after lifting it with your fingernail. When all the tabs are lifted by the toothpicks, just push lightly on all 6 toothpicks halves at a go, the plastic ring should pop out.
Next step is to make the spring on the Malkoff longer. You can either solder on an extra bit of spring, or carefully pull on the existing spring on the Malkoff. I (carefully) used a magnet on the top of the cell to check whether it will work before lengthening the spring. A magnet isn't recommended because of the possibility of moving and contacting the walls which are only millimeters away with the result of shorting out the cells.
BTW, there is no such thing as a P90L, SureFire never came out with those.
Also, a warning on using the full-powered M61 in the unbored M951: there is minimal surface contact between the brass body of the Malkoff and the aluminium of the LU60 collar - it's good enough for electrical conductivity but I'm not sure if it's optimal for heat transfer.
You'll need to remove the black plastic spacer ring thingy inside the LU60 adapter collar, that has 6 tabs holding it in place. If you don't want to break the tabs, you'll need 3 toothpicks - break each one into half and use the halves to hold the tab open after lifting it with your fingernail. When all the tabs are lifted by the toothpicks, just push lightly on all 6 toothpicks halves at a go, the plastic ring should pop out.
Next step is to make the spring on the Malkoff longer. You can either solder on an extra bit of spring, or carefully pull on the existing spring on the Malkoff. I (carefully) used a magnet on the top of the cell to check whether it will work before lengthening the spring. A magnet isn't recommended because of the possibility of moving and contacting the walls which are only millimeters away with the result of shorting out the cells.
BTW, there is no such thing as a P90L, SureFire never came out with those.
Also, a warning on using the full-powered M61 in the unbored M951: there is minimal surface contact between the brass body of the Malkoff and the aluminium of the LU60 collar - it's good enough for electrical conductivity but I'm not sure if it's optimal for heat transfer.
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Oh, could have sworn I'd seen a P90L but my memory isn't what it used to be. The ring removal seems easy enough, but the spring kid of spooks me, I have never soldered anything so that would be out. Stretching the spring scares me as well, I'd hate to ruin a $60 Malkoff. My M951 has the funnel shaped head with the facets cut around the top if that helps.
Gene43
Enlightened
Go ahead and stretch the spring. If you break the M61, I'll replace it.
Thank you sir, I'll try it tomorrow.
Edited to add: I couldn't wait until morning so I went ahead and removed the plastic collar and it fits!! Stretched the spring no problem and it now works like a charm! Thanks alot for the help Machete god, I now have a super bright weapon light!
Edited to add: I couldn't wait until morning so I went ahead and removed the plastic collar and it fits!! Stretched the spring no problem and it now works like a charm! Thanks alot for the help Machete god, I now have a super bright weapon light!
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PCC
Flashlight Enthusiast
PM me. I'll do it for the cost of the return shipping. This holds true for anyone wanting this done. I'm hoping I didn't just open the floodgates nor a can of worms with this post...
bstrickler
Enlightened
How much gap is there between the dropin and the collar? I've been looking at getting one for my 951, too, but the fitting problem was what has been keeping me from getting it.
About the P90L,
People thought that because of the P60L, they thought Surefire was going to come out with a P90/P91L, but that ended up never happening. I wouldn't bother with a P60L, unless you were to mod it with an XM-L (you'd need a shim to raise the XM-L, to match the die height), due to how dim it is, and how ugly the color is (blueish purple).
Gene, out of curiosity, what made you stop producing the modules with optics? Was it the lack of spill, or some other reason?
~Brian
Gene43
Enlightened
The brighter more efficient XP-G is not compatible with the optic.
bstrickler
Enlightened
Not to sound condescending, but they make other optics for the XP-G (I.e. Carclo 10003), but whether or not the beam pattern was up to your standards, or compatible with your design/desires, is another story. Either way, I respect your decision, and still plan to buy an M61.
The gap was maybe 1/4" or a little less, removing the plastic collar worked like a charm. PCC, I appreciate the bore offer sir, that is very kind of you but mine works now.
bstrickler
Enlightened
I meant gap between the outer diameter of the m61 and the inner diameter of the collar. This would require you to wrap something around the dropin to make it fit snugly inside the collar, allowing for better thermal transfer. Also, did you get the fitting ring, too? According to Genes website you need one. If you dont use one, it might not work properly (I'm not 100% sure on that, so don't quote me on it). My P60 dropins are JUST a hair too big for my collar, so yours must be of a different "era" or something.
Machete God
Enlightened
Glad to be of help and to hear it worked for you!
I'm not sure if the inner diameter differs between different iterations of the M951. The one I worked with (hexagonal head + "star" LU60 collar) will take the M61 partway down. The M61 will not seat properly in the LU60 collar as the collar is too narrow but it is enough to make electrical contact. The removal of the black plastic collar reduces the distance between the spring of the drop-in and the top of the battery. Thus by stretching the spring on the M61 it is enough to complete the circuit. I tried with other D26 (P60-compatible) drop-ins, namely a Lumens Factory D26-LED HCRI and a generic Chinese single-mode "Super Bright T6", but these won't seat as far down as the Malkoff in the LU60 collar because of the way the exterior of the reflector/pill is shaped (there isn't enough taper like the Malkoff M61 has). As a result, you won't be able to screw down the bezel (the M2 head) fully onto the collar. It will still work, though, and you won't even have to stretch the spring as these usually have much longer springs compared to the Malkoff drop-ins.
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bstrickler
Enlightened
This is the problem I have with my modules:
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y85/Bstrickler/IMAG0283.jpg
It won't go in any further, hence the reason I'm having troubles.
Just measured my LU60. At the base of the throat, it's .798", and at the top, its .865". That's a pretty big difference, and probably why people say you have to have it bored.
Does your LU60 have any cutouts/notches? Mine doesn't
http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/nn21/1wrx7/001.jpg and
http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/nn21/1wrx7/002-1.jpg
is what I'm talking about.
Machete God
Enlightened
The LU60 adaptor on mine (well it used to be mine but I've sold it to a friend and am doing the conversion for him so technically it isn't really "mine" hah) does indeed have the notches, but it isn't the same as the one in your picture. I will try to get some pictures up later, I actually took some this morning while writing the post above but haven't gotten round to uploading them.
I have the same problem getting the Lumens Factory and the other generic drop-in to fit into the LU60 adaptor, that's as far in as they will go but they will turn on regardless. However, the bezel will not screw down fully and removal of the P60 drop-in is not easy later because it will have been forced in a bit. The key to getting the drop-in to light up is ensuring that the spring is long enough to poke out of the other end of the LU60 adaptor to make contact with the battery. Removing the black plastic collar helps shorten the distance the spring needs to cover.
The Malkoff, because of it's tapered body, sits lower in the LU60 adaptor and allows the bezel to be fully screwed down.
I have the same problem getting the Lumens Factory and the other generic drop-in to fit into the LU60 adaptor, that's as far in as they will go but they will turn on regardless. However, the bezel will not screw down fully and removal of the P60 drop-in is not easy later because it will have been forced in a bit. The key to getting the drop-in to light up is ensuring that the spring is long enough to poke out of the other end of the LU60 adaptor to make contact with the battery. Removing the black plastic collar helps shorten the distance the spring needs to cover.
The Malkoff, because of it's tapered body, sits lower in the LU60 adaptor and allows the bezel to be fully screwed down.
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bstrickler
Enlightened
Ah, alright. I guess I shall get a Malkoff, then (once I pay my medical bill. $562!! Ugh.)
