SF 6PX with an 18650?

I've been eyeing up the SF 6PX's, the 6PX Tactical would be my duty light and the 6PX Pro would be my back-up light. I've searched and haven't come up with much an have a few questions...

Has anyone bored out their 6PX to run an 18650?
How is the output and runtime? Is it greater or lower than primaries?
Does the dual function of the 6PX Pro work the same with an 18650?
Is the diameter of the 6PX the same as a 6P, ie would it fit in holsters such as the Blackhawk modulock?

...I'm actually now looking at the SF Fury as my back-up vs the 6PX Pro.
6PX Tactical a my duty/go-to light at 200+ lumens and the Fury as my back-up at a dual-mode 500 & 15 lumens should have me covered VERY well! 200 lumens for quick light, 500 for further spotting such as rooftops or someone in the river and then 15 lumens for close quarter/rescue situations.

Now my main concern is running AW cells in the 6PX Tac and Fury...Can I run 17670's no problem? What about 18650's after boring? How 'bout output and runtime?
From my newbie observation, the Fury is a 6PX Pro body and tail with a head on steroids, correct?

Any and all help is much appreciated, I'm ready to pull the trigger on these...Or just go all out modding my current 6P

The 6PX/G2X and the Fury can both run "no problem" with an AW 17650 however some slightly thicker batteries wont fit. The output should be the same. There is a runtime test I did as well as other CPFers but dont know the time off of my head, I think its on the 6PX/G2X thread somewhere. As you might know the 6PX/G2X are not like the 6P/C2/G2 based lights that the head screws on and off but these are glued together. I'm sure you can bore the 6PX but maybe a smaller mAh battery will have to be used as some of these new 3100 mAh 18650s are a little fat. I would just stick with using the 17650s on the 6PX and bore that 6P you have which you will also be able to be replace the light assembly with a aftermarket drop-in unlike the 6PX which no one has made an aftermarket drop-in for. GL

The heads well glued on and I've only seen one thread where someone popped er off bored it and reassemble it. I remember seeing toolmarks on the head after. A 17650 should run fine in them, the extra battery life of the 18650 is nice but a PITA for the newer models. If I were you I'd get a wicked dropin for your 6P, run that on 18650's and run primaries or a 17650 in you backup light like the 6px or Fury.

I use a VinhNyugen 3 mode P60 dropin the Nichia 4500k 93 cri emitter is my current favorite.

For more power get an XML, if you want some throw the xre or xpe :thumbsup:

Thanks for the informational responses...One thing I'll add is that I'd like to use the same AW cells on both lights just to keep it all a bit more seemless and not have to carry a bunch of different size batteries.

I do love the rugged feel of my 6P and have been thinking of just dropping in an M60 or M61, but I'm unsure which one of them will work better for me. The back-up I could always just pick up a 6P host and run a 2 or 3 mode drop-in.
Although, I started this thread on the 6PX's and Fury because I'd kind of like to lean towards 'stock' SF stuff for reliability, especially if they already make stuff that'll fit my needs, ie a 6PX Tac and Fury

Use AW 17650's on both that's the simplest way. No boring needed, no compromising the lifetime warranty

forumname05 said:

Thanks for the informational responses...One thing I'll add I that I'd like to use the same AW cells on both lights just to keep it all a bit more seemless and not have to carry all different size batteries.

I do love the rugged feel of my 6P and have been thinking of just dropping an M60 or M61 in it, but I'm unsure of which will work better for me. The back-up I could always just pick ups 6P host and run a 2 or 3 mode drop-in.
Although, I started this thread on the 6PX's and Fury because I'd kind of like to lean towards 'stock' SF stuff for reliability, especially if they already make stuff that'll fit my needs, ie 6PX Tac and Fury

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If you like stock then get the Fury and tac, there going to have better heat management than going dropin style, and you an use the same battery in both. Save the money youd save getting them bored on a few extra batteries and a car charger

CarpentryHero said:

Use AW 17650's on both that's the simplest way. No boring needed, no compromising the lifetime warranty

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Does running a 17650 add extra lumens or runtime?

Is your decision final? Have you considered other lights (yes, of course I'm thinking on the Malkoff MD2, which is my duty light)?

My 6PX tactical is bored out and running an AW 2900 maH 18650 (flat top). I also installed a McClicky tailcap switch because the stock (momentary) switch wasn't making proper contact w/ the body after I bored it out. The runtime is much longer w/ the 18650 as well.

flashlight chronic said:

My 6PX tactical is bored out and running an AW 2900 maH 18650 (flat top). I also installed a McClicky tailcap switch because the stock (momentary) switch wasn't making proper contact w/ the body after I bored it out. The runtime is much longer w/ the 18650 as well.

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What kind of issues did boring cause with the stock tail cap exactly?

The aluminum disc that contacts the body is smaller in diameter than the one in my Z2 and C2, and after boring it would not sit flush on the body. The McClicky fixed that problem.

flashlight chronic said:

The aluminum disc that contacts the body is smaller in diameter than the one in my Z2 and C2, and after boring it would not sit flush on the body. The McClicky fixed that problem.

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Well that's not good, I wanted to stick with the momentary/twisty stock tail cap, for tactical purposes

forumname05 said:

Well that's not good, I wanted to stick with the momentary/twisty stock tail cap, for tactical purposes

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You could replace the new twisty kit with an old twisty mechanism or replace the tailcap all together. Still a lot of work unless you really want the 6PX head.

Can you give some insight as to how the 6PX was bored with the permanently attached head.

flashlight chronic said:

My 6PX tactical is bored out and running an AW 2900 maH 18650 (flat top). I also installed a McClicky tailcap switch because the stock (momentary) switch wasn't making proper contact w/ the body after I bored it out. The runtime is much longer w/ the 18650 as well.

Click to expand...

You in permanently attach it, it's well glued, but the glue isn't as strong as aluminum

I wrapped the body and head with two pieces (one for the head, one for the body) of cork/rubber material, the type used to make automotive intake manifold gaskets, secured the body in a pipe vise and unscrewed the head using a pair of channel locks (pump pliers). Absolutely no scratches or nicks. I have a drill press at work that I use to bore out my lights. Takes about an hour to complete.