I had the opportunity to purchase a used Surefire L1 LumaMax for $20, so how could I go wrong? The only problem was that high mode would not stay on when the tailcap was screwed in, it only worked by pushing the button. This had to just be a tailcap problem so this was the perfect light to make a remote switch for. My plan was to set up the light on my air rifle for pest control.
This post will show how I both repaired the tailcap and how I added a remote switch. For my application the low mode was not needed and no longer works on my light. If one wanted to only repair the tailcap and retain the high/ low modes, these directions will be helpful for that too - although Surefire would probably replace it for free as long as you didn't try to fix it yourself.
Don't attempt to do this. I am not responsible for injury, damage, voided warranties, etc if you choose to attempt this. Don't do this if your life may depend on it. I am providing it for informational purposes only.
First unscrew the black ring. I used a pair of needle nose pliers.
You can remove the rubber cap now and gently pry out the button being careful to pry it evenly and straight up. The switch assembly will now fall out the other side.
Now carefully pry off the black cap, being careful not to break any plastic pins like I did. Don't worry too much if you do, mine still works.
Below you can see why the high mode did not work right. The spring, not the coil spring, but the flat spring attached to the PCB should be a few cm longer, so it touches the pad on the board when the tailcap is pressed or screwed in. All three of mine were broken. A tiny piece that had broken off was wedged in there just right so that the high mode would work then the switch was pressed.
Drill out the rivet that holds the coil spring on.
Desolder the ring. I also removed the resistor. The resistor controls the low output. If you are only repairing the switch you may be able to leave the resistor in place, but I don't know for sure. (Sorry this one's kind of blurry)
Find something to use to extend the broken springs. This is from a disposable camera but I'm sure there are tons of things you can use, just look around. You need to be able to solder to it of course.
Lots of steps here, solder on your extensions, I put them below the springs as pictured. Shape them so they will touch the pads on the PCB and not bind on anything. I used a dremel with a grinding bit. Lots of trial and error here. Once it looks good solder the ring back to the PCB. Be sure the holes on the board line up with the holes on the ring. At this point you could reassemble the tailcap (don't forget the resistor) and have one that works like new. (At least for awhile I don't know how long this will last)
For the remote switch I attached two leads where the resistor was. Now connecting these leads will make the light come on, full brightness.
Drill a hole for the wires to go through.
Reassemble, I used a screw to put the spring back on, but forgot to take a picture. You could probably use a rivet I just didn't have one the right size. Use some heat shrink tubing to make it look nice. I used a bit of RTV sealant to make it waterproof.
Ready to go. I'm not going to depict how I made the remote switch because there are plenty of articles about that. The way works now is screwed all the way in you get constant on, full bright. Out one turn and the remote switch works. Out one more and the light is locked out. Not the most elegant solution but it works great. I am not sure how long the repaired springs will last but for this application where the tailcap/ switch is not used very often I bet it will last for awhile. Again I will mention not to do this if your life may depend on it.
This post will show how I both repaired the tailcap and how I added a remote switch. For my application the low mode was not needed and no longer works on my light. If one wanted to only repair the tailcap and retain the high/ low modes, these directions will be helpful for that too - although Surefire would probably replace it for free as long as you didn't try to fix it yourself.
Don't attempt to do this. I am not responsible for injury, damage, voided warranties, etc if you choose to attempt this. Don't do this if your life may depend on it. I am providing it for informational purposes only.
First unscrew the black ring. I used a pair of needle nose pliers.
You can remove the rubber cap now and gently pry out the button being careful to pry it evenly and straight up. The switch assembly will now fall out the other side.
Now carefully pry off the black cap, being careful not to break any plastic pins like I did. Don't worry too much if you do, mine still works.
Below you can see why the high mode did not work right. The spring, not the coil spring, but the flat spring attached to the PCB should be a few cm longer, so it touches the pad on the board when the tailcap is pressed or screwed in. All three of mine were broken. A tiny piece that had broken off was wedged in there just right so that the high mode would work then the switch was pressed.
Drill out the rivet that holds the coil spring on.
Desolder the ring. I also removed the resistor. The resistor controls the low output. If you are only repairing the switch you may be able to leave the resistor in place, but I don't know for sure. (Sorry this one's kind of blurry)
Find something to use to extend the broken springs. This is from a disposable camera but I'm sure there are tons of things you can use, just look around. You need to be able to solder to it of course.
Lots of steps here, solder on your extensions, I put them below the springs as pictured. Shape them so they will touch the pads on the PCB and not bind on anything. I used a dremel with a grinding bit. Lots of trial and error here. Once it looks good solder the ring back to the PCB. Be sure the holes on the board line up with the holes on the ring. At this point you could reassemble the tailcap (don't forget the resistor) and have one that works like new. (At least for awhile I don't know how long this will last)
For the remote switch I attached two leads where the resistor was. Now connecting these leads will make the light come on, full brightness.
Drill a hole for the wires to go through.
Reassemble, I used a screw to put the spring back on, but forgot to take a picture. You could probably use a rivet I just didn't have one the right size. Use some heat shrink tubing to make it look nice. I used a bit of RTV sealant to make it waterproof.
Ready to go. I'm not going to depict how I made the remote switch because there are plenty of articles about that. The way works now is screwed all the way in you get constant on, full bright. Out one turn and the remote switch works. Out one more and the light is locked out. Not the most elegant solution but it works great. I am not sure how long the repaired springs will last but for this application where the tailcap/ switch is not used very often I bet it will last for awhile. Again I will mention not to do this if your life may depend on it.
