6P Lego'ing Question

I've been reading and reading and searching.. I'm still lost. So I'll just flat out ask:

I want to lego a Surefire 6p.. I've been to Overyready's site a bunch of times.. ..put things in and out of the basket.. come back here, read more, and in the long run? I'm still confused.. in fact, so confused I just went out and ordered a Sunwayman v20c figuring it was my better option, but I still have this surefire bug from back in the day when I carried a incan 6p until someone swiped it from me..

Here's my question: WHAT do I need to change to get a P60 LED drop in to have multiple levels?? Is it JUST the drop in? Or do I also need to get a McClicky switch? Or what? I want a 6p bored to accept the 18650's.. it HAS to be rechargeable. It HAS to have at least a low/high selection also. I'm an electrician but I'm not sure what all these numbers mean when I look at posts regarding the drop in's, their voltages, and what not. (Maybe I'm just not a very GOOD electrician, but that idea would break my heart.. :-( ) When lego'ing from Overyready's site, there are a bunch of different options, too. Do I need a lens with these drop ins or are they sealed with their own lens?

But my biggest question is: What makes a single stage light, such as the 6p able to have a multi-level LED? I also see switches with resistors being thrown around.. is that what I need for multiple levels or are all the "brains" in the drop in? Will the 6p's regular switch engage multiple levels? Do the switches with "brains" just lessen the resistance and thus allow longer run times?

..anyway. I really have my heart set on a Surefire. I like all the options out there, but maybe it's the OVER-wealth of information and I can't break through it all.

What you need is a drop in from someone like Nailbender or Vinhnguyen that has multiple levels. Search in the "Buy/Sell/Trade" custom section for either of those builders - and there are others. They offer multi level drop ins - Nailbender even has some with strobe, etc.

Different modes are activated by quick presses of the button - some have 'last level' memory - others don't. They are relatively inexpensive, awesome quality, and offer many different LEDs to choose from.

You don't have to have a McClicky - but if you prefer a clicky switch then you can find excellent upgrades that are relatively easy to do. Oveready makes an awesome one!

As far as boring, there are a number of custom modders who'll bore one for you, or you can just use the 17670 battery in most without boring. Oveready sells pre-bored hosts - I believe there are others.

Oveready also sells AMAZING single to triple level triple LED drop in engines. Malkoff makes amazing LED engines, too - they are typically single level and you'd probably need a Malkoff host with a high / low ring.

Totally confused now?

If so, I apologize!! But I think you can count on the good folks I've mentioned to be willing to help you with your questions - far better than I. Maybe send a PM to Oveready or one of the other builders?

Good luck!

To simplify what run4jc has said, figure out what battery you're going to use then find a drop-in that will support the voltage of the batteries. Levels, emitters, etc, are all optional and controlled (mostly) by the electronics. Multi-level tail switches are not needed and can be a point of failure.

The emitter will mostly determine the size of the hotspot: larger die emitters like the XM-L, SST-50/90, etc, will put out more light, but, the hotspot will be larger so they are great for close in work, not so much for looking for something far away. Smaller emitters like the XP-E or XR-E throw a tighter beam that can reach farther most of the time, but, the smaller hotspot is less effective close in. The XP-G is a good compromise and the newest XP-G2 will just about match the XM-L for output up to about 1.5A.

Here's what you need for a P60:


1. Think of levels and output you want. Say, "1100 lumens, 3 modes, wall of light."
2. Pick a dropin. Say, the Oveready Triple H3. Read its voltage requirements: "Runs on 1 cell, full power on 2."
3. Pick cells and extenders as needed. Use the Triple H3 in a standard P60 host (Note: A Surefire 6P MUST be bored out to take 18mm diameter cells!) with a standard switch. Or get an extender (1 CR123 extender and 2 18500 cells works, or 1 18650 extender and 2 18650 extenders makes longer runtime and a longer light).
4. Check your current, voltage, and connections. Don't exceed the dropin's rated maximum voltage unless you're sure you know things. Some dropins have a special contact point. My Overready Triple H3 did not work in my Solarforce L2P because of a minor difference in dropin socket dimensions. I fixed this with a spring that straddles this contact point. Some dropins take MASSIVE current. Above 2 amps , you probably want a nicer-than-stock switch. Above 5 amps, a McClicky won't cut it.
4.5 Check thermal contact. The dropin should fit snugly in its socket. If it doesn't, use aluminum foil, copper sheet, or coke can metal (Sand both sides to remove the plastic coating) to wrap the dropin so it DOES fit. If it doesn't fit bare, then sandpaper (fine grit) will work on the dropin socket. Do all sanding on dead circuits; we don't want aluminum dust in our batteries or switches.
5. Smoke test! Put it together, see if anything gets hot. Turn it on for a minute, then take it apart. No smoke? Try for a minute, and if nothing is a bunch hotter than the rest of the light, you're in business. Use Li-Ion safety.

P60 modes: It's all about the tailcap. I have not yet seen a P60 with a magnetic ring, so most P60 dropins are controlled by quick on/off sequences. For example: on/off/on/off/on (5 clicks, or 2 half-clicks and a full click with forward clicky) gets me to the third mode. In the first mode, click off/on gets me to the next mode. Some have mode memory, others always come on in high or something. Each will have some mode cycle: Such as low/med/high/strobe/sos.

Others have explained pretty much everything, but I wanted to add something about the switch. You can use the standard Surefire twisty and still have multiple modes, so long as your drop-in is multi-mode. Yes, it's the drop-in that determines how many modes. McClicky allows you to turn the light on by clicking. The twisty requires that you twist the tail to keep the light on (momentary will still work by pushing the button but you have to twist for the light to stay on unaided). This is relevant because if you want multi-modes, you may have an easier time with the McClicky. I tried the twisty originally and ended up sending it back to Oveready to exchange for a McClicky. Here's why: suppose I have a three mode light and I want it on full power. With the twisty, this is what I'd do: push the button three times to go through the modes, then--WHILE KEEPING THE BUTTON PRESSED--twist the tailcap to keep the light on. This can be a bit unwieldy, takes two hands. With the McClicky, this is what I'd do: press the tailcap how ever many times it takes to get me to the mode I want and then click it. One hand. So I think McClickys have a big advantage over the twistys when it comes to multi-mode drop-ins.

So in the end it's quite simple: get a 6P (that's what you're looking at), a good 18650, and a multi-mode drop in that meets your needs (power, tint, whatever you want), and then decide if you want one-handed operation. If you do, get the McClicky upgrade.

motigg said:

So in the end it's quite simple: get a 6P (that's what you're looking at), a good 18650, and a multi-mode drop in that meets your needs (power, tint, whatever you want), and then decide if you want one-handed operation. If you do, get the McClicky upgrade.

Click to expand...

A 6P needs to be bored before it can accept 18650s. Oveready sells them pre-bored.

You guys rock. Kinda cleared it all up for me and reassured me I was on the right path, but just getting confused w/ all the "numbers". Thanks again.

..now. ..where did I put that piggy bank of mine?

MagicDot said:

..now. ..where did I put that piggy bank of mine?

Click to expand...

Hide the bank and run. You've been warned...

D'oh! Just bought an Oveready 18650 bored HA 6P, McClicky switch and the simple SS bezel ring.. ..cruising Nailbender's xp-g2/p60 Modules thread and saw the XP-G2 R5 flux 1D tint w/ 2.8-6v w/1.4a draw and 3 modes.. am I going to be happy with this combo as my first "lego"? Am I matching the voltages right? The 18650 sets around 3.6-3.7v, so going w/ a voltage in the middle of the drop-in specs is better than going w/ a drop-in with specs that *start* where my battery's voltage begins, right? I should get some pretty good time out of what I'm looking at, correct?

Here is some "numbers" info you may find helpful.

The names of the cells are related to their physical dimensions. An 18650 cell is 18mm in diameter and 65mm long, while an 18500 is 18mm in diameter and 50 mm long.

One rechargeable Li-Ion 18650 cell has a maximum capacity of 3100 mah and provides 4.2 volts hot off the charger and 3.7v nominally.

One rechargeable Li-Ion 18500 cell has an energy capacity of up to 1500 mah and provides 4.2 volts hot off the charger and 3.7v nominally.

One rechargeable Li-Ion RCR123 cell has a maximum capacity of 750 mah (probably closer to 500 in reality) and provides 4.2 volts hot off the charger.and 3.7v nominally.

One primary Lithium CR123 cell has a maximum capacity of 1500 mah and provides 3 volts.


In a bored 6P, your best bet will likely be one 18650 cell, though two RCR123s would also work in most cases (at twice the voltage of one 18650) and two CR123s as easy to find, long running backups.

Adding a Surefire A19 extender to a 6P lengthens the body to match that of a 9P. This extender will also need to be bored to accept an 18XXX cell. This size allows for three CR123s delivering 9 volts, three RCR123s delivering 11.1 to 12.6 volts (which may be too much for the chosen drop-in), or two 18500s delivering 7.4 to 8.4 volts.

If you choose a high output drop in that is fully regulated (puts out the same maximum output) from 5 to 12 volts and you use a single 18650, the battery won't supply enough voltage to allow the LED to reach its full output, if it fires up at all.

Using that same drop in in a 9P with two 18500s will provide it with 7.4 volts and it will run at full output until the cells output sags to below 5 volts, at which time it will run in direct drive from the batteries, dimming as the cells are depleted.

To me, the light pattern and the way in which the different modes are selected are more important than the battery that supplies the juice. I always choose the drop in, then use the battery or battery combo that provides the current to keep the LED running in regulation as long as possible as the voltage is reduced.

Grizz

Grizzman said:

Adding a Surefire A19 extender to a 6P lengthens the body to match that of a 9P. This extender will also need to be bored to accept an 18XXX cell. This size allows for three CR123s delivering 9 volts, three RCR123s delivering 11.1 to 12.6 volts (which may be too much for the chosen drop-in), or two 18500s delivering 7.4 to 8.4 volts.
Grizz

Click to expand...

Getting a SF A19 extender eventually would be a great option for your 6P. I don't think SF is making them anymore, though I'm sure that there are still retailers out there that have them in inventory. Extending your 6P into a 9P happens to make it the right length for 2xAA, which could be useful in an emergency. Taking your '9P' and adding a SF A14 extender, will allow you to add another AA, to make it 3xAA. I believe SF discontinued those, also. I don't think it would be beneficial to worry about boring the A14; only the A19. Those AA cells would rattle around a bit, so most people find a way of wrapping them with something so they stay centered. The 6P may not be the most glamorous SureFire around, but it can be oh so versatile.

MagicDot said:

D'oh! Just bought an Oveready 18650 bored HA 6P, McClicky switch and the simple SS bezel ring.. ..cruising Nailbender's xp-g2/p60 Modules thread and saw the XP-G2 R5 flux 1D tint w/ 2.8-6v w/1.4a draw and 3 modes.. am I going to be happy with this combo as my first "lego"? Am I matching the voltages right? The 18650 sets around 3.6-3.7v, so going w/ a voltage in the middle of the drop-in specs is better than going w/ a drop-in with specs that *start* where my battery's voltage begins, right? I should get some pretty good time out of what I'm looking at, correct?

Click to expand...

Darn good first buy. I suggest getting two AW-brand, protected 18650 cells (So you have one to swap). 'Button-top' ones are more universal, but both should work in the light you're putting together. Nailbender makes REALLY REALLY nice dropins at that price point. I suggest a neutral-white LED, but that's a personal preference.

You guys really have been a great help. The whole community here seems to be very insightful and helpful in fact. ..just a few simple replies to help clear things up and I'm finding I can keep up with thread conversations and now browse the mod sections without scratching my head so much..

Just wanted to say thanks again and I'm glad I finally started posting on the forum after being a lurker for 5 years.. ;-)

...but one of you rich flashaholics are going to have to marry me so I can keep up with my new obsession.

MagicDot said:

You guys really have been a great help. The whole community here seems to be very insightful and helpful in fact. ..just a few simple replies to help clear things up and I'm finding I can keep up with thread conversations and now browse the mod sections without scratching my head so much..

Just wanted to say thanks again and I'm glad I finally started posting on the forum after being a lurker for 5 years.. ;-)

...but one of you rich flashaholics are going to have to marry me so I can keep up with my new obsession.

Click to expand...

LOL ... yeah I know the feeling - once I got hooked the purchases started adding up! Great "first purchases" - you can't go wrong with a 6P Surefire host, and a Nailbender drop-in. :thumbsup: I've got one of the XP-G2 dropins (Malkoff M61 version) and I love the tint and beam - I think it'd be great for you.

Have fun in this forum - there's a lot to learn, obsess about, and eventually spend your money on!