Modded 6P vs 6PX or P2X Fury

forumname05

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For the past few years as a midnight cop in a big city I've carried a 9P and a 6P as a back-up, both modded with DealExtreme drop in's and AW 17XXX cells. I'm now in the specialized training school for ESU in my department and as I'm stepping it up and hitting the holy grail of my department I'd like to step up my lights to be on par with what will be my everyday tasks in ESU, everything from SWAT to rescue and in between. I'd like to carry 2 versatile, bulletproof 6P sized lights, one will be my go to light and the other in my pocket as a back-up (w/ a high/low featur and bezel down pocket clip), both with momentary/twist tail caps.
I was originally thinking of picking up a 6P host and a bored body (for my current 6P) as well as drop in's and cells. But, these new Surefire X series lights look very intriguing because they have tons of output and would not need to be modded so there will be no question of reliability. I could carry a combination of 2 6PX's (tac & pro) or 2 P2X Fury's (the dual-mode & tac) or for a great all around set up of having 3 awesome outputs, I could carry a 6PX Tactical as my go to and a P2X Fury as my back up which would give me a total of 200, 15 and 500 lumens!
I currently have a Pila charger and some AW 17500 and 17670 cells. Could 17670's be run in these newer lights without a problem? What about having them bored out for 18650's? Will a single 17670 or 18650 diminish runtime or output compared to two rechargable 123 sized cells? What will runtime's and output be like on the various rechargables? I obviously want the longest runtime and the most output possible. Are there other reliable cells that you guys recommend? What about other chargers?
Besides liking the aesthetic badassness of the 'old' 6P's vs these newer style SF lights, is there any reason why I shouldn't go with these newer lights vs modding some 6P's? Could I realistically mod 2 6P's to have the same versatility and reliability of running a combo of these newer lights for the same investment???
Will these newer SF X series lights fit in the same holsters designed for 6P lights?
I have a bezel down Blackhawk holster which I love and would like to continue using.
Are there any bezel down pocket clips for these newer lights? (…for the back up)
If I go with 6P lights, which drop in will suite me best as my main light? I need somethingBRIGHT, dependable and versatile. Something that can run on both rechargables (18650's?) and regular SF primaries if need be. Tint is not really of a concern. What will runtimes be like?
What about a high/low drop-in for my back-up???
Sorry for all the questions, but I'm a newbie looking for a GOOD reliable set-up. Because of the nature of the unit I'll be in, I need the ultimate in performance and reliability. Nothing finnicky or unreliable at all will suffice.
 

sidecross

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I have used the Surefire 6P for years and bought the Surefire newer 6PX Pro with dual outputs, but the new 6PX Pro has a non removable head as does the Surefire Fury to the best of my knowledge.

This is a 'no go' feature for me and my newest light is an Eagletac G25C.
 

forumname05

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I have used the Surefire 6P for years and bought the Surefire newer 6PX Pro with dual outputs, but the new 6PX Pro has a non removable head as does the Surefire Fury to the best of my knowledge.

This is a 'no go' feature for me and my newest light is an Eagletac G25C.

I've seen write-up's on here on removing the head, it actually is in fact possible
 

cland72

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Could 17670's be run in these newer lights without a problem? Yes, I've been using 17670 in my Fury

What about having them bored out for 18650's? It is doable, but you must heat up the head so the thread lock loosens.

Will a single 17670 or 18650 diminish runtime or output compared to two rechargable 123 sized cells? Not that I've noticed. Seems to be just as bright and theoretically it should have slightly shorter runtime, but not dramatically

What will runtime's and output be like on the various rechargables? 17670 should be relatively close to stock, with 18650 having substantially longer runtimes I would assume.

Are there other reliable cells that you guys recommend? AW

What about other chargers? You have a great one already, no need for something new

Besides liking the aesthetic badassness of the 'old' 6P's vs these newer style SF lights, is there any reason why I shouldn't go with these newer lights vs modding some 6P's? My Fury seems hard to hold onto securely when compared to my 6P due to lack of knurling

Could I realistically mod 2 6P's to have the same versatility and reliability of running a combo of these newer lights for the same investment? Yes, getNailbender or Vinh to custom make you a single mode, and dual mode P60 drop in for your 6P's

Will these newer SF X series lights fit in the same holsters designed for 6P lights? The body is slightly smaller -- I have a kydex holster and the Fury is not retained well at all compared to my 6P

I have a bezel down Blackhawk holster which I love and would like to continue using. I don't think this will work since the 6PX heads are different, and the Fury def won't work

Are there any bezel down pocket clips for these newer lights? (…for the back up) Darksucks?

If I go with 6P lights, which drop in will suite me best as my main light? I need somethingBRIGHT, dependable and versatile. Something that can run on both rechargables (18650's?) and regular SF primaries if need be. Tint is not really of a concern. What will runtimes be like? Contact NB or Vinh regarding mAh draw figures based on the driver and power source, but you shouldn't have a problem finding a dropin that will accommodate both primaries and rechargeables

What about a high/low drop-in for my back-up??? See above, NB or Vinh
 
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sidecross

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I knew there was a way to remove the head, but I prefer the easy thread 'on & off" method.

I have a good number of Surefire lights and I do not plan on selling them, but they are no longer the only 'good' light to choose.
 

tstites

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I noticed you said tint is not really a concern. I'm not a LEO but I would think that accurate color rendition would be important for you. I remember my first G2L having a blue/purple tint, or other lights that have a rather greenish hue. Perhaps someone else who better understands your duties can speak to this?
 

cccpull

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I knew there was a way to remove the head, but I prefer the easy thread 'on & off" method.

I have a good number of Surefire lights and I do not plan on selling them, but they are no longer the only 'good' light to choose.

I removed the head without any drama. No heating etc... in fact I was holding on to the head while trying to remove the cap to replace the batteries and it came loose. Go figure.:thinking:

Can anyone else verify the use of 2 RCR123's lion on the 6PX without damage?
 

flashlight chronic

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My 6PX is bored out and running a 2900maH AW IC 18650 (flat top) and a McClicky switch. Output is about the same w/ increased runtime over lithium primaries. As stated above, flat tops work well in my 6PX.
 

sidecross

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My 6PX is bored out and running a 2900maH AW IC 18650 (flat top) and a McClicky switch. Output is about the same w/ increased runtime over lithium primaries. As stated above, flat tops work well in my 6PX.

I would like to have my Surefire 6PX set up that way, but the head needs to be removed, the body bored out and a McClitchy switch would be required.

I have up until this year always used Surefire and all them work very well, but I think Surefire should change the way they market their product.

My loyality to Surefire is not strong enough to take my time to make their product to be like the one 'flashlight chronic' now has.
 

arvetus

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I made a post in the thread linked by Kestrel where I went into more detail on my opinion.

I do have a 6px. The head is indeed removable. Not sure about the LED module inside the head. I didn't try to go further than removing the head. While it is a solid light and is A LOT brighter than my 6p, I don't care for the light myself, so I didn't want to mess it up before I sold it ;) But it's just as solid as the old Surefires, and is o-ring sealed and everything. I just didn't care for the grip and the overall look of the light. Petty, I know.

Forumname, If I were you, I might stick with the 6p/9p. But that's just me. As LED technology continues to evolve and as long as people are manufacturing drop ins, you'll constantly be able to upgrade your light output without having to buy an entirely new light. Further thoughts are in the thread linked in the post immediately above...

Stay safe...
 
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Erzengel

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I currently have a Pila charger and some AW 17500 and 17670 cells. Could 17670's be run in these newer lights without a problem? What about having them bored out for 18650's? Will a single 17670 or 18650 diminish runtime or output compared to two rechargable 123 sized cells? What will runtime's and output be like on the various rechargables? I obviously want the longest runtime and the most output possible. Are there other reliable cells that you guys recommend? What about other chargers?

I once had a Fury in a Passaround and tried it with a 16650 LiIon. The Output was 80% of the Furys maximum output and after four 15 minute runs there was a slight recognizable decrease in brightness. The Fury runs just about 40 minutes on high mode with Cr123s, there is a runtime graph on German messerforum.net. The Spike at 37 minutes is because of short cooling under the water tap. The 17670 runtime graph should be ignored because it was taken with a cheap Ultrafire. My 16650 seemed to perform better than the Cr123s with lower maximum brightness.
The Pila charger is one of the best, but it only charges with 0.5 Ampere. The XTAR SP2 has a selectable charging current of 0.5, 1.0 or 2.0 Ampere. It will charge faster if Your cells can take the higher current. Just do a research if Your cells can take the higher current. Maybe You should ask in the Electronics/Batteries subforum.

Will these newer SF X series lights fit in the same holsters designed for 6P lights?
I have a bezel down Blackhawk holster which I love and would like to continue using.
Are there any bezel down pocket clips for these newer lights? (…for the back up)
If I go with 6P lights, which drop in will suite me best as my main light? I need somethingBRIGHT, dependable and versatile. Something that can run on both rechargables (18650's?) and regular SF primaries if need be. Tint is not really of a concern. What will runtimes be like?
What about a high/low drop-in for my back-up???
Sorry for all the questions, but I'm a newbie looking for a GOOD reliable set-up. Because of the nature of the unit I'll be in, I need the ultimate in performance and reliability. Nothing finnicky or unreliable at all will suffice.

If the Blackhawk holster doesn't fit, there are the similar ESP flashlight holders but I don't know if they are available in the US.
The cheapest clip is the Solarforce stainless steel belt clip.
Most custom drop ins are based on 7135 linear regulators. They have an abysmal low runtime and high heat dissipation with Cr123s. High Low drivers are unfortunately very rare.
 

NotRegulated

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I am using a G2X Pro (Nitrolon polymer body version of the 6PX Pro) which has the 200 lumen high/15 lumen low output.
I am also using a single output 6P host with a Malkoff Devices M61 LED dropin. I have been upgrading the Malkoff drop-in's as they increase in brightness and efficiency. The current Malkoff LED I have in my 6P is the M61SHO (super high output) which has about 450 lumens output. These LED will work just fine in your 9P as well. The nice thing about the 6P is that you can upgrade as new brighter more efficient LEDs become available. I have been through three or four upgrades now over the years keeping the same 6P flashlight.
You could use a standard 6P with a 17670 rechargeable or opt for a bored out 6P host and use an 18650 rechargeable. The 18650 will give you a longer runtime but either of these rechargeable battery's will work just fine. The 6P, bored or stock, will still retain the ability to use two primary 123 batteries and you can still use the Blackhawk holster.
Usually for LE work a rechargeable is the best way to go for your main light when you know you will use the light often each night. I would use a rechargeable in my main 6P light but keep 123 primaries in my backup 6PX/G2X Pro light so I know that at any time I need the light the battery will work and not be dead/in need of a recharge.

The new Fury's sound like a great light. I wouldn't be surprised if they end up replacing their 6PX model. The price of the Fury is very reasonable when compared to buying a bored out 6P then buying a high end LED for it.
 
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Swedpat

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A few weeks ago I got a P2X Fury and really like it. Unfortunately it can't(not even E2DL) use 18650s. Therefore the 17670 battery sounds really interesting!
While a 18650 is significantly thicker than a CR123 a 17670 has the same diameter? Can I charge 17670 in the same charger as 18650? If so I could get rechargeable batteries for E2DL and P2X and charge the cell with the 4Sevens charger.
 

cland72

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The 17670 is slightly thicker than 2 CR123 primaries. You won't be able to use it in your E2DL without some honing/sanding down of the indention at the rear of the light, but it should work in other P/C/M series lights without issue.

The E series tends to be hit or miss on whether or not they accept 17670s.
 

ABTOMAT

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I'll just mention one thing I really didn't like about the Fury: The exterior of the light is smooooth. If my hands were wet/greasy/whatever it'd be much harder to keep a grip on it or use the switch than a light with a knurled body/switch like a 6P or Z2.
 

Swedpat

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The 17670 is slightly thicker than 2 CR123 primaries. You won't be able to use it in your E2DL without some honing/sanding down of the indention at the rear of the light, but it should work in other P/C/M series lights without issue.

The E series tends to be hit or miss on whether or not they accept 17670s.

Thanks for the information!

I'll just mention one thing I really didn't like about the Fury: The exterior of the light is smooooth. If my hands were wet/greasy/whatever it'd be much harder to keep a grip on it or use the switch than a light with a knurled body/switch like a 6P or Z2.

That's my experience too. I will try with some tape or elastic around the handle, think it should work.
 

cccpull

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Thanks for the information!



That's my experience too. I will try with some tape or elastic around the handle, think it should work.

If you have an old (or not used) bicycle inner tube it works great for grip. I use it on lights and knives.
 
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