MOD HELP, from the XR-E to the Nichia 219
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LilKevin715
Enlightened
A nichia 219 is a direct replacement for XP-E or XP-G, not XR-E.
RoGuE_StreaK
Enlightened
Depends on what you call "direct replacement"; the Nichia has the same footprint as an XP-E/XP-G, but this only matters if you are desoldering and replacing. If it's a star swap, that's a little different.
I don't know much about direct drive, but looking at the spec sheet for the 219, to me it reads like direct driving off 3x new alkaline etc AAs would be too much current for it to handle; extrapolating the Forward Voltage vs Forward Current graph (pg 12) gives maybe 2.5Amp @ 4.5Volts, when it's rated at 1.5Amp and 2Amp max for bursts. Don't know if it's been reliably pushed past this.
To my interpretation, if your start voltage is say 3.6V (3x rechargeable AAs), then it should work OK. But non-rechargeables seem to me to be too high a start voltage, unless you used pre-used ones that had a few hundred mA knocked off them. Or unless you chucked in say a 1ohm 2Watt resistor to limit the max current.
That said, I just checked out the datasheet for the XR-E, and it shows a max current of 1Amp @ 3.7V, so buggered if I know. According to that, your direct driven XR-E shoulda burnt out from the start! :thinking:
I don't know much about direct drive, but looking at the spec sheet for the 219, to me it reads like direct driving off 3x new alkaline etc AAs would be too much current for it to handle; extrapolating the Forward Voltage vs Forward Current graph (pg 12) gives maybe 2.5Amp @ 4.5Volts, when it's rated at 1.5Amp and 2Amp max for bursts. Don't know if it's been reliably pushed past this.
To my interpretation, if your start voltage is say 3.6V (3x rechargeable AAs), then it should work OK. But non-rechargeables seem to me to be too high a start voltage, unless you used pre-used ones that had a few hundred mA knocked off them. Or unless you chucked in say a 1ohm 2Watt resistor to limit the max current.
That said, I just checked out the datasheet for the XR-E, and it shows a max current of 1Amp @ 3.7V, so buggered if I know. According to that, your direct driven XR-E shoulda burnt out from the start! :thinking:
Also i replaced quite some XRE-leds with 219's (by replacing the led-mcpcb assembly) and that works quite well actually. The reflector is designed for a XRE and not for a 219 or XPG, this is not ideal, so for a good hotspot and to prevent loss of light the 219 must be positioned as close to the reflector as possible (the solder blobs that connect the led-base to the wire leading to the driver must be fairly flat, use a spacer ring made of thin cardboard or plastic between led-base and reflector to prevent shorts, and screw the pill directly against the reflector)
[/URL] 219XREreflector by djozz1, on Flickr[/IMG]
This is a 219 behind a OP XRE-reflector, and there is not much wrong with that . The beam profile is almost exact the profile of my foursevens miniAA: fairly tight hotspot (considering the size of the reflector), smooth transition to spill.
djozz
This is a 219 behind a OP XRE-reflector, and there is not much wrong with that . The beam profile is almost exact the profile of my foursevens miniAA: fairly tight hotspot (considering the size of the reflector), smooth transition to spill.
djozz
I saw that too. Perhaps it is not direct drive, i did just asume that.
Also i replaced quite some XRE-leds with 219's (by replacing the led-mcpcb assembly) and that works quite well actually. The reflector is designed for a XRE and not for a 219 or XPG, this is not ideal, so for a good hotspot and to prevent loss of light the 219 must be positioned as close to the reflector as possible (the solder blobs that connect the led-base to the wire leading to the driver must be fairly flat, use a spacer ring made of thin cardboard or plastic between led-base and reflector to prevent shorts, and screw the pill directly against the reflector)
[/URL] 219XREreflector by djozz1, on Flickr[/IMG]
This is a 219 behind a OP XRE-reflector, and there is not much wrong with that . The beam profile is almost exact the profile of my foursevens miniAA: fairly tight hotspot (considering the size of the reflector), smooth transition to spill.
djozz
Thank you everyone for the help and tips! I do not mind losing some throw for a gorgeous tint. But I will try and keep the solder to a min and keep the reflector against the pill. Who knows? I may luck up and keep my throw too.
Thanks!
low
