Fenix LD15 user - want a neutral or HCRI ! Help

mckeand13

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I've got a Fenix LD15 in my pocket at all times. I really like the light. Hi/low, good levels, great size....

I'm a neutral and HCRI convert. Now I say blah every time I turn the LD15 on. Are there any lights similar in size, AA or 14500 powered, that I can get in a neutral or HCRI?

Any possibility of modding an LD15 to use, say, a Nichia 219?

Thanks.
 
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mckeand13

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FourSevens has a Mini in HCRI that pretty similar.

Thanks for the suggestion, but I had a Mini AA some time ago and sent it back as quickly as it came. What a piece of junk. See my thread about it.

http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?316017


The Mini AA sounds like the perfect light until you try to use it. I'm tempted to give it another shot to get a HCRI but I just can't bring myself to do it.
 

think2x

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I've haven't modded one yet but from the pics it looks do-able.

Nichia 219 is my favorite emitter these days.

Jamie
 

jcalvert

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The Mini AA sounds like the perfect light until you try to use it. I'm tempted to give it another shot to get a HCRI but I just can't bring myself to do it.

I have both a Foursevens Mini AA and Eagletac D25A, and although I have not had any problems with the Mini in nearly two years of use, I find the D25A to be far superior in quality with a nearly identical set of twisty modes as the Mini. Thanks to the generous guidance from "think2x" (Jamie), I swapped the XP-G S2 out of the D25A to the Nichia 219 over the weekend. What a difference the 219 makes, plus I get a lower low.

So you may want to consider the D25A, perhaps a used version from the Marketplace, and get the parts for the mod from Craig at Illumination Supply.

Whatever you decide, I wish you all the best!

-John
 

jcalvert

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Ooh, I'm interested. What was the guidance you received?

Preface
I had wanted to learn basic modding for quite awhile, in particular how to swap emitters, and the excitement generated by the Nichia 219 was timely as I was finally ready to give it a go. Before I could have even considered doing this, I needed guidance from experts because I had zero knowledge of micro-electronics or soldering.

Removing and reflowing an emitter is easy enough as I had practiced, but getting to the board on the D25A, in fact probably in most lights, was another thing altogether. Although I had read a multitude of reference materials and had watched many YouTube tutorials, it's still my nature and was a requirement in my career to know everything about a subject. So much of the additional knowledge and guidance I received, in the form of answering my specific questions came from Jamie, Vinh Guyen, and Gene Malkoff. For this particular mod, Jamie was especially helpful!

The mod
> To remove the stainless steel bezel ring, I used a 1/2" rubber insulated clamp like this, and small, curved jaw vice-grips to twist it off. It did not show evidence of any adhesive, so it seems to have been simply tightened down firmly at the factory. When lifting the ring off, the lens will fall out, so be careful not to lose it.

> The reflector is secured into the bezel with an o-ring, but only required a gentle pry with my finger tips to get it out.

> Since the board was secured with a white, thermal paste (Fujik?), I figured I could remove it. So I placed the bezel into the jaws of a hobby vise and went at it.

> I desoldered the leads and carefully pulled the board out, trying not to get paste all over the place. Unfortunately, as I removed the board, I did get some paste onto the exposed end of one of the leads. Re-tinning the ends before I pull out the board would make removing the greasy paste a lot easier, otherwise it gets into the individual strands as it did in my case.

> I removed the thermal paste off of everything, the back of the board, the pill, the walls of the bezel, and especially the wire leads using isopropyl alcohol (91%) on a Q-Tip. I then re-cleaned with Arctic Clean.

> Using my Bernz-O-matic micro torch with blower attachment as seen here (~$26 from Lowes), I removed the XP-G S2. Since I didn't have any solder paste (ordering today) to prep a new board, I reused the stock board after cleaning all the pads with Arctic Clean.

> Then I reflowed the Nichia 219 to the board with the correct orientation. Using the spec sheet for the 219 (thanks to Craig Shih of Illumination Supply), I was able to determine that the cathode on the 219 was the tiny arrowhead on one corner.

> Before replacing the board only to find out that there is an issue, I first tested that the emitter worked with a couple of wired magnets (thanks Jamie!) to a CR123 cell.

> I laid down only a small bead of Arctic Silver 5 thermal compound onto the pill (heatsink) because as I had read, too much impedes the heatsinking process. I also read not to spread it out onto the pill prior to placement of the board, because doing so could lead to air bubbles.

> I carefully straightened the wire leads up along the walls of the bezel so that when I replaced the board, the leads would be aligned with the cutouts. I carefully lowered the board into place and as I attempted to center it, I placed moderate pressure onto the board (not the emitter dome!), so that the AS5 would spread out completely underneath.

> Using tweezers and forceps, I manipulated the leads to make them both easier to tin, and to have them lay properly onto the pads before resoldering. Again, next time I will tin the leads after I desolder them, but before I remove the board.

> I then immediately replaced the reflector so that I could be certain that the emitter was centered.

> I cleaned the lens, but before I replaced it, since I wanted a floody beam for this light, I laid it on a tiny piece of diffusion film and cut around the perimeter with a hobby knife. I then placed the lens, diffusion film-side down, on top of the reflector and screwed the bezel ring back on. The end!

I know I get wordy, but I hope that helps!

-John
 
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Mike S

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...I swapped the XP-G S2 out of the D25A to the Nichia 219 over the weekend. What a difference the 219 makes, plus I get a lower low.

Were you at all disappointed in the brightness after swapping to the 219? I just replaced the XP-G R5 that was in my D11.2 with a HCRI 219 and was sort of bummed. The color is great, though. It's so much better than the XP-G's cool white ~6500K color temp.
 

jcalvert

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Were you at all disappointed in the brightness after swapping to the 219? I just replaced the XP-G R5 that was in my D11.2 with a HCRI 219 and was sort of bummed. The color is great, though. It's so much better than the XP-G's cool white ~6500K color temp.

Hi Mike,

As mentioned, although I immediately noticed and appreciated the lower output on low, I should have just stated that all levels were lower with the 219. The addition of diffusion film added to this effect, but I expected and prefer the lowered output since I tend to use this specific light around the house. Later tonight, I'll check each emitters spec sheet to see what the difference in luminous flux should be.

Since I'm a novice at soldering, I wonder how much a brand new XP-G board, new solder/solder paste, better board prep/flux, and advanced techniques might have impacted the emitter's output. As soon as I get a chance Mike, I'll plan on PMing you about some specifics.

-John
 

mckeand13

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Checking back on my post.

I was just looking at the EagleTac D25A Clicky with Neutral White XM-L. Seemed like a pretty good option.

Does anyone have both so they share their thoughts on how the two compare?

How's the quality of EagleTac lights, or specifically the D25A clicky? I think my LD15 is quite nice in build quality (especially when considering the low cost) so I don't want to take a step backward. Definitely want to make sure EagleTac does a nice job on the threading.

Thanks!
 

mckeand13

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I have modded my LD15 with xp-g2 neutral 3A ,R5. What do you want exactly to learn? How good are you in mods?

No experience swapping LED's but plenty of soldering small electronics.

I tried getting the head apart before but stopped before I wrecked something. The only part to hold on the brass section is the threads and I didn't want to mar those.

Could you describe how you got it apart, what you did to swap LED's, or any other pointers?

Thanks.
 

tam17

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I have modded my LD15 with xp-g2 neutral 3A ,R5. What do you want exactly to learn? How good are you in mods?

Tutorial, please!

First, how did you get it apart w/o wrecking the whole thing? From the outside, LD15 seems pretty tightly packed and potted. I vaguely understand that you first have to pull apart bent lips on the bottom of the brass pill. I've soldered a XP-G before, but with LD15 you have some serious issues to solve first before it comes to soldering.

Cheers
 

reppans

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Checking back on my post.

I was just looking at the EagleTac D25A Clicky with Neutral White XM-L. Seemed like a pretty good option.

Does anyone have both so they share their thoughts on how the two compare?

How's the quality of EagleTac lights, or specifically the D25A clicky? I think my LD15 is quite nice in build quality (especially when considering the low cost) so I don't want to take a step backward. Definitely want to make sure EagleTac does a nice job on the threading.

Thanks!

Well, I have 3 D25A Ti clickies in NW XML and 2 Quark Mini Ti AAs in Cool White XPGs - no aluminum samples though.

Among all my examples, the threads are definitely are better on the Quark Minis, as is the overall quality and consistency - there where/are minor issues with each of my 3 ETs. Still love the D25s though, and moved it ahead of my Quark Minis (but behind Quark Regulars) for EDC rotation - great beam and for me they've managed to mix my favorite features from both the Quark Minis and Quark Regulars.

Guess the only things I tend to get really picky about are beam profile (floody vs throwy), and having the correct lumen modes.
 

ergotelis

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Every mod is plain simple, as long as you are thinking carefully every step, to solve any issues.
Firstly, opening.
To open it, use a straight jaw pliers to catch and turn the head, i tightly secured the brass pill in a Heavy duty bench vice (i don't know if i write it well, if you didn't understand, i will post a photo to show what i mean!) all with with an elastic-plastic pieces, so as not to cause any scratches.
Secondly soldering/reflowing etc
Then, i desoldered the led , i reflowed an xp-g2 one, and put the soldered the led back again. How i flow/reflow led can be seen here from my video: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8RdX0M-lHd8&feature=plcp
Thirdly, centering
Use the stock plastic piece to center again the led, screw in carefully, so as to be sure that you won't damage the led by touching the reflector with it(xp-g2 has bigger silicone than a xp-g) If you don't have an optimal focus, remove the plastic centering piece, put a thin plastic surface to ensure no short circuit, and try to screw in carefully to catch a good focus.
Forthly, securing
I would suggest, as it is a twisty head flashlight, while centering, use a glue to secure again the threads of the pill, a glue that won't stick immediately, so as to be able to center well and not to damage the led. Put a very small quantity, just to secure and in order to avoid screwing out the "head" of the "head" while trying to power up the flashlight!
 
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