What model Eagletac D25 should I get to mod with a Nichia 219?

ScaryFatKidGT · Sep 7, 2012

D25A or C XP-G or XM-L? Someone told me the XP-G is 2 amps and the XM-L is 2.5 but does that go for the D25A also? I'd like to have it at 1.4/1.5 amps other wise high and turbo would the same brightness turbo would just get hot right?

Also are the D25C and A the only ones that have copper heat sinks or do that larger lights also?

jomox · Sep 7, 2012

Check out this review here:
http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb...d-up-Review-(D25C-D25A2-D25LC2-XM-L-amp-XP-G)

ScaryFatKidGT · Sep 7, 2012

Don't see anywhere where it says the current going to the LED

Fireclaw18 · Sep 7, 2012

My understanding is that the Nichia 219's operating spec is similar to the XP-G. And that it is not designed to run at very high currents like an XM-L. As such, you should probably get the XP-G version.

ScaryFatKidGT · Sep 7, 2012

Fireclaw18 said:
My understanding is that the Nichia 219's operating spec is similar to the XP-G. And that it is not designed to run at very high currents like an XM-L. As such, you should probably get the XP-G version.

Me to but then that adds 2 more questions

1. Is there a difference between the A and C model

2. Is there or is there ever going to be a S2 Ti model? Eagletac lists it on there site

THE_dAY · Sep 7, 2012

The Nichia 219 will work great with an XPG/XPE reflector but probably not an XML reflector.

Here are the differences between all the D25 models:

http://www.eagletac.com/html/d_series/compare-d-series/index.html

ScaryFatKidGT · Sep 7, 2012

THE_dAY said:
The Nichia 219 will work great with an XPG/XPE reflector but probably not an XML reflector.

Here are the differences between all the D25 models:

http://www.eagletac.com/html/d_series/compare-d-series/index.html

I'm more worried about amps I don't want to be pumping 2 amps into the 219 if I don't have to be, but still have it be close to full brightness. That comparison chart lists the drivers. Could someone tell me the difference between the A400M and A800M and how many volts and amps are going to the LED?

LowLumen · Sep 7, 2012

I don't think EagleTac drives the XP-G over 1.5 amp on 'turbo'. This is the max spec per Cree and I think a wise choice. Not sure where you are seeing the 2Amps, but maybe that is tail cap current draw from a boost driver(?)

THE_dAY · Sep 7, 2012

ScaryFatKidGT said:
I'm more worried about amps I don't want to be pumping 2 amps into the 219 if I don't have to be, but still have it be close to full brightness. That comparison chart lists the drivers. Could someone tell me the difference between the A400M and A800M and how many volts and amps are going to the LED?

Ah I see, well if the XPG can take it then the 219 should too (for short bursts)

Sorry, don't know anything about the drivers.

ScaryFatKidGT · Sep 8, 2012

THE_dAY said:
Ah I see, well if the XPG can take it then the 219 should too (for short bursts)

Sorry, don't know anything about the drivers.

Lol its a XP-G and puts out over 500lm, it is definitely over 1.5 amps with a li-ion. Idk I might just get one and now worry and just run it on a primary.

The 219 puts out a tinny bit more light at 1.5 amps vs 1.4 but any more than that and you are just making heat. I know a mod isn't going to be perfect for the 219 but I just wanted to make sure 1 CR123 in the D25C wasn't putting over 1.7/1.8 amps to the LED or I would try to find a different host.

bansuri · Sep 8, 2012

The mod will go much easier if you get the XP-G model and reflow the 219 to the stock board.
You won't have to mess with trying to shoehorn a too-big board in there, the holes are already in the correct location, and the board thickness, reflector opening, and focus are optimized for that size emitter.
You will be working from the front of the light. Very cramped quarters for a soldering iron and tweezers to hold your wires while you reattach them. Make it easy on yourself with the stock XP-G board.

I realize this doesn't address your original question but I wanted to add this info as I've found these issues regarding the physical replacement can make or break a mod.

ScaryFatKidGT · Sep 8, 2012

bansuri said:
The mod will go much easier if you get the XP-G model and reflow the 219 to the stock board.
You won't have to mess with trying to shoehorn a too-big board in there, the holes are already in the correct location, and the board thickness, reflector opening, and focus are optimized for that size emitter.
You will be working from the front of the light. Very cramped quarters for a soldering iron and tweezers to hold your wires while you reattach them. Make it easy on yourself with the stock XP-G board.

I realize this doesn't address your original question but I wanted to add this info as I've found these issues regarding the physical replacement can make or break a mod.

Yeah I'm going with the S2 just wondering D25A or C, I would prefer the C for the larger reflector if it isn't to powerful.

What model Eagletac D25 should I get to mod with a Nichia 219?

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