RECOMMENDED SWITCH RUBBER BOOT MAINTENANCE

tatasal · Sep 16, 2012

I had a 3D Maglight a long time ago and the rubber boot finally worn out, exposing the switch. I have gone through the 'search' function on recommended maintenance but haven't read anything specific. I'm afraid by the time the rubber boot eventually wears-off it won't be readily available.
What do you people do to make it last as long as possible?

My only contribution is to always make sure my fingernail does not make contact with the rubber, only the skin of my thumb. Are there flashlight rubber boot specific conditioners out there? Thanks

Vortus · Sep 16, 2012

At a $1.50 each or so, just order a couple and set for life.

tatasal · Sep 16, 2012

Vortus said:
At a $1.50 each or so, just order a couple and set for life.

Just emailed my supplier if he sells spare rubber boots. (Actually I haven't inquired yet before my post!)

What brand of lights do you have and do you actually have spares now?

tatasal · Sep 16, 2012

Vortus said:
At a $1.50 each or so, just order a couple and set for life.

I have Fenixes, Klarus, Zebra and others and my supplier only have a spare boot for my Xeno G42.

ericjohn · Sep 17, 2012

I think every 3-6 months, you should cover it with petroleum jelly and that goes for the screw threads as well. I am glad you brought this topic up as it reminds me that I need to do the very same thing to my D cell Maglites. I will go do that as soon as I finish typing this post, lol.

chmsam · Sep 17, 2012

I'd guess that for most lights you could just spray a silicone cleaner/lube on a cloth and wipe it down.

I'm not sure but I'd bet that even Armor All would be OK but remember to only use a tiny bit. You want to keep the switch cover supple but not slippery.

Also, remove the switch cover before treatment if at all possible so as not to coat the whole light and be sure to let the cover dry as much as possible before you put it back together.

On the other hand if switch covers are readily available and cheap, why bother? Just order a few spares while they are still available.

tatasal · Sep 18, 2012

Do you remove the boot first then apply petroleum jelly/silicone inside out? Have you used it for a considerable amount of time? So far only one manufacturer offers a spare boot (Xeno G42).

tam17 · Sep 18, 2012

Petroleum-based products may harm some types of rubber, so I wouldn't experiment with those. The only maintenance I can recommend (aside from avoiding physical damage) is washing the rubber boot with a mild soap solution, drying it and applying pure talc powder - it's sometimes used in rubber product storage to prevent deterioration and sticking.

Cheers

chmsam · Sep 24, 2012

If you can remove the switch boot (cover) safely that's the better way to go. If not, it's no big thing for the most part.

With the switch boot removed just very lightly spray the boot inside and out with a silicone spary or use a silicone wipe and blot off any excess (I'd just use a clean cotten cloth or rag). Let the boot dry for several minutes and reassemble.

If you cannot remove the boot just spray some silicone spray on a cotten swab or use a silicone wipe and try to get as much of the boot done without using too much. Again, blot off any excess and allow to dry for several minutes.

It would probably be more important to do the outside of the boot anyway since that would seem to get the most wear and tear.

At any rate, that's what I'd do.

Good luck and I hope this helps.

Also as was stated above some materials do not do well at all when exposaed to petroleum products.

On the other hand I myself wouldn't use the talc since it might migrate into the light and I think that could cause more problems than it would cure. Just my two cents worth.

skyfire · Sep 24, 2012

tatasal said:
Just emailed my supplier if he sells spare rubber boots. (Actually I haven't inquired yet before my post!)

What brand of lights do you have and do you actually have spares now?

surefire. and one of the biggest reason why is because of all the available parts from surefire, and 3rd parties.
when something does go wrong, its an easy fix.

fyrstormer · Sep 24, 2012

You can't repair damaged rubber. Products that claim to repair damaged rubber just remove the outer oxidized layer, so the remaining rubber looks shiny for a while.

You can only replace damaged rubber. No repair method will work for long.

tam17 · Sep 25, 2012

chmsam said:
On the other hand I myself wouldn't use the talc since it might migrate into the light and I think that could cause more problems than it would cure.

Talc particles are way bigger than water molecules, and most flashlight today have at least IPX4 waterproofing, if not IPX8. I'm trying this method on Jetbeam PA40 and Solarforce L2 XM-L with no side effects so far. If a problem arises, I'll post a warning immediately

Cheers

Merkava_4 · Sep 25, 2012

What is the procedure for replacing the switch cover? I've got a 3D also that needs a switch cover.

chmsam · Sep 25, 2012

For Maglite C and D cell lights they pretty much pop in and out. Compress the edges and it should come out easily. Reinserting it is also easy. If it's hard to to remove or put back in, you're doing something wrong.

The following link shows the basics on the second page, even though the rest of the switch changing process varies for some models. http://www.maglite.com/pdf/custserv/cd_switch_repair_8_0410212004718132.pdf

tatasal · Sep 25, 2012

chmsam said:
For Maglite C and D cell lights they pretty much pop in and out. Compress the edges and it should come out easily. Reinserting it is also easy. If it's hard to to remove or put back in, you're doing something wrong.

The following link shows the basics on the second page, even though the rest of the switch changing process varies for some models. http://www.maglite.com/pdf/custserv/cd_switch_repair_8_0410212004718132.pdf

Thanks for the link. This a side topic though. My 3D Mag once had leaking alkalines. I notice after that the 'Brightness' will not stay long..maybe a corroded contact inside the switch? I know you cannot open the switch...but it is possible leaking chemicals seeped in into the switch...corroding the contacts?

chmsam · Oct 1, 2012

It is possible. The switch on a Maglite is replaceable though. Most likely it's better and easier to just replace the switch.

However, check on their website and see if the warranty covers it. If not Maglite then the battery company might well cover it.

If you need to order a replacement switch you will need to know the serial number of your light. It's on the barrel.

D-cell lights with incandescent bulbs have serial numbers that either have a "D" at the start of the number or no "D" at the start of the number. "D" serial number lights should have a separate switch but lights with no "D" have the switch incorporated into the barrel.

If you go to the Maglite website you'll find a menu list on the left side of the page. Click on "Flashlight Anatomy" and then select the category of lights that matches yours. You'll find an "exploded" view of the light and a parts list with numbers. You can order through Maglite but there are other sources for parts.

You already have a link to the instructins on how to change the switch -- it's the same page that tells how to remove the switch boot.

tatasal · Oct 2, 2012

chmsam said:
It is possible. The switch on a Maglite is replaceable though. Most likely it's better and easier to just replace the switch.

However, check on their website and see if the warranty covers it. If not Maglite then the battery company might well cover it.

If you need to order a replacement switch you will need to know the serial number of your light. It's on the barrel.

D-cell lights with incandescent bulbs have serial numbers that either have a "D" at the start of the number or no "D" at the start of the number. "D" serial number lights should have a separate switch but lights with no "D" have the switch incorporated into the barrel.

If you go to the Maglite website you'll find a menu list on the left side of the page. Click on "Flashlight Anatomy" and then select the category of lights that matches yours. You'll find an "exploded" view of the light and a parts list with numbers. You can order through Maglite but there are other sources for parts.

You already have a link to the instructins on how to change the switch -- it's the same page that tells how to remove the switch boot.

Problem is, I live in the Far East so the mailing costs for a new switch assembly might be higher than a new 3D! Thanks for the info

saw45 · Oct 4, 2012

There actually IS a product that will repair rubber. It is basically an uncured silicone rubber, that can be shaped, molded, made into any shape you desire. It sticks to most surfaces. Then left out to cure which takes about 24 hours. I've seen it, owned it, used it and it WORKS!

Rat6P · Oct 4, 2012

saw45 said:
There actually IS a product that will repair rubber. It is basically an uncured silicone rubber, that can be shaped, molded, made into any shape you desire. It sticks to most surfaces. Then left out to cure which takes about 24 hours. I've seen it, owned it, used it and it WORKS!

Please share

Sounds interesting. Though most rubber switch covers I have on my lights are relatively easy to replace that would be my preferred method still.
Sure if the rubber boots were $30-$50 a pop then it may be an option.

tam17 · Oct 4, 2012

Similar product (neoprene-based, not silicone) can be googled using query terms "bison liquid rubber". Feasibility of such repairs is questionable, though (worth considering only if new boot isn't available).

Cheers

RECOMMENDED SWITCH RUBBER BOOT MAINTENANCE

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