!!!HELP!!! FENIX P3D BROKE!!!

OK so I know this light is old and outdated... but it has served me well and is my EDC. I want it to work again... one day while at work it just didn't turn on after a small 3foot drop to the floor... I don't get it has survived worse drops...
Anyway, I tried putting new batteries, cleaning the contact points and nothing... am I doomed?
. Does anyone know how to repair it?
. Or modify it with another better L.E.D.?

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Its not your LED thats broke, so modding it wouldnt do much.

Make sure the retaining ring that holds your clicky internals in place in the tailcap is nice and tight

How do I check that? Remove the rubber switch boot?

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Remove the tailcap, and insert the jaws of a pair of round nose or thin needle-nose pliers into the divots on either side of the tail spring. It may take some pressure to remove, but you can check the clicky internals that way, and reassemble if they look good.


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The P3D doesn't have a positive-contact spring in the head. The fall may have hit just right and cause the driver to crack.

I still have a Fenix P3D Q5 that I couldn't open for moding. It sounds like a connection issue, as I have the P3D to be fairly robust. Give the threads a good clean and make sure everything is tight. Then try new batteries. If that does not work, then you may need to change the switch.

Hey yeah did that already didn't work... geez this sucks I never thought I'd actually b bummed if one of my lights went out... I feel empty...lollol

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I was however able to open the first small piece of the head but it is sealed pretty good ..

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Sorry to hear about that, hopefully you can fix it. My P3D Q5 is the first real flashlight I ever bought and mine has survived many falls onto concrete, asphalt etc and still works great. It currently serves glovebox duty in my car.

Before you go taking the head apart unscrew the tail cap and remove it. Then take a paperclip and make contact with the battery and the outer case. If the light lights up then you know it has something to do with the switch. If not then you know the issue is in the head. Also, make sure when connecting to the case you make contact with the very top. That way you avoid the anodizing.

Awesome I'll try that thank you very much

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Flashlight Dave said:

Before you go taking the head apart unscrew the tail cap and remove it. Then take a paperclip and make contact with the battery and the outer case. If the light lights up then you know it has something to do with the switch. If not then you know the issue is in the head. Also, make sure when connecting to the case you make contact with the very top. That way you avoid the anodizing.

Click to expand...

OK so I tried the paper clip thing... it didn't work... unless I did it wrong... I had the batteries in the body with the tail cap off... then I took a paper clip and put one end on the battery and the other end touching the flashlight body... is this the correct way...? I also was able to take the clicky apart and everything looked solid... the spring wasn't loose and the clicky look perfect nothing loose... i cleaned conacts and threads. But still nothing... anyone have any ideas...? I've searched but found nothing yet on how to fix this... I might just have to hit up Fenix and see how much it would b to get it working, see if its worth it...

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As long as you touched the silver part of the flashlight body and not the black anodizing then you did it right. That would mean there is something wrong with the head. I don't know if Fenix will be able to help you on this sense the light is so old and out of warranty. Unless I am mistaken I think it is a one year warranty but maybe you can contact them and see what they can do. As for cracking the head I have heard of ways of doing it but I should leave that to someone else more experienced than I to guide you.

Sorry I'm confused... what silver part of the body...? My light is the light colored almost silver body not the black one... is that what u meant...? And what part is the anodized part...? Sorry if this is a stupid question... but Im still a newb...
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REDAT9-AP1 said:

Sorry I'm confused... what silver part of the body...? My light is the light colored almost silver body not the black one... is that what u meant...? And what part is the anodized part...? Sorry if this is a stupid question... but Im still a newb...
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Click to expand...

You should touch the part of the tail which is not anodized.

nanotech17 said:

You should touch the part of the tail which is not anodized.

Click to expand...

Connect the paper clip to the back of the batteries while inserted into the P3D. The other end of the paper clip should touch the rim of the body tube. It is silver in colour. If the light switches on, then the problem is with the tailcap. Change the switch and everything will be fine.

BLUE LED said:

Connect the paper clip to the back of the batteries while inserted into the P3D. The other end of the paper clip should touch the rim of the body tube. It is silver in colour. If the light switches on, then the problem is with the tailcap. Change the switch and everything will be fine.

Click to expand...

Thank u... now I understand... haha... man do I feel dumb... sorry for my newbness guys I must brush up on my terminology

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REDAT9-AP1 said:

Thank u... now I understand... haha... man do I feel dumb... sorry for my newbness guys I must brush up on my terminology

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Click to expand...

Keep us informed on your progress with the light.

OK people... so I did the paper clip test correctly this time... and nothing... I also cleaned the contacts and threads, I tried the batteries on another light to make sure they work and they did... so the this means its probably the driver that was cracked on the drop...?

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If you're testing using BRAND NEW BATTERIES (this is important, because lithium batteries die suddenly) and bypassing the switch using a paperclip didn't work, then yes, the light is dead.