Jetbeam PA10/PC20 tailcap fix recommendation

ouchyfoot

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I just received a jetbeam PA10 and PC20. I knew the tailcaps would feel squishy from reading the forums, but the price was right.
I'm no modder, so I come to you for advice. Can they be fixed? Do they need a better switch? Is it just the rubber boot?
And finally....can I do it my self?
 

PCC

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The problem is that the boot is a loose fit over the actual switch underneath. Most of the mushiness comes from this and the rest is due to the excess boot collapsing as you press on it. I thought about taking the switch part out and sticking it in the lathe to remove 0.5mm from the shoulder around the button, but, felt that leaving it alone would probably be a better plan. The retaining ring holding it all together is reverse-threaded. That's probably the most difficult part about taking the tail cap apart.
 

ouchyfoot

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So, is it a good switch with an ill fitting boot, or a good boot with an ill fitting switch?
 

Labrador72

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I would leave it as it is. It's just a matter of getting used to: I found it awkward at first but even grew to like it after a while.
I still prefer the feel of a PD32 switch (on my PD31) but don't mind the squishy feel anymore either. Also, I find being so soft makes it harder to accidentally release it while on momentary on which is a good thing as releasing and instinctively soft-pressing again right away would make you involuntarily cycle through to the next level. Considering you cycle through the Daily mode even when in Turbo, it's a pain to accidentally go to the next brightness level and having to cycle through the disco to go back to the previous brightness level.
 

AnAppleSnail

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I just received a jetbeam PA10 and PC20. I knew the tailcaps would feel squishy from reading the forums, but the price was right.
I'm no modder, so I come to you for advice. Can they be fixed? Do they need a better switch? Is it just the rubber boot?
And finally....can I do it my self?

If it's much like the BC10, you may try tightening the ring in the tailcap. Look into the tailcap. Do you see a round ring with two holes in around the spring? Stick some needle-nose plier points in and tighten it a bit. Is the switch better? Don't over-tighten this (Moderate torque only).
 

ouchyfoot

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I know from reading the forums to ask this question first. Is this a reverse thread? Do I turn it counter clockwise to tighten? I'll try it tonight. If the whole thing seems easy for me to disassemble, I have a ton of spare boots from all my lights to try on it.
 

AnAppleSnail

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I know from reading the forums to ask this question first. Is this a reverse thread? Do I turn it counter clockwise to tighten? I'll try it tonight. If the whole thing seems easy for me to disassemble, I have a ton of spare boots from all my lights to try on it.

All of mine have been 'normal' thread. Holding the tailcap in my left hand (Or in a clamp) I hold needlenose pliers and turn clockwise to tighten the ring down. In the lights I've done this with, this will restore lost tailcap contact and 'stiffen up' the clicky a bit after that. I've never tightened mine very far. Note that the contact points "under" this screw are important to be kept clean in high-current flashlights to get the maximum possible runtime.
 

STR

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I have two of these PA10s and have never noted any issues whatever with my switch and both are still using original button caps. Anyway, this is one of my favorite lights, and certainly the first choice for me when I am looking for a single AA light. I am curious about something regarding the NiteCore clone of this same model. The advertisement for the light by Nitecore is much more honest about the actual performance of the light using regular batteries. I see no mention of it even being one they recommend for 14500 rechargable batteries like those I've used in my PA10. Could the electronics be incapable of taking the rechargeable 3.7v? Just curious because apparently the MT1A by Nitecore is the same light other than the PA10 being the XML. I wonder if the MT1A doesn't throw better for the regular batteries? Can we post links here? Not sure. I'll look tho
 

ouchyfoot

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I think the MT1A is closer to the BA10 than the PA10. I downloaded the manual for the MT1A and under Li Ion it says banned, but on their web site under MT1A it says "compatible with both rechargeable and non rechargeable batteries".

Regarding the squishy feeling tailcap, I use 14500 in my PA10 so there is no reason to change modes. It's fine like it is for off and on. It's more the PC20 that I would like to firm up a bit.
 

Labrador72

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I have two of these PA10s and have never noted any issues whatever with my switch and both are still using original button caps. Anyway, this is one of my favorite lights, and certainly the first choice for me when I am looking for a single AA light. I am curious about something regarding the NiteCore clone of this same model. The advertisement for the light by Nitecore is much more honest about the actual performance of the light using regular batteries. I see no mention of it even being one they recommend for 14500 rechargable batteries like those I've used in my PA10. Could the electronics be incapable of taking the rechargeable 3.7v? Just curious because apparently the MT1A by Nitecore is the same light other than the PA10 being the XML. I wonder if the MT1A doesn't throw better for the regular batteries? Can we post links here? Not sure. I'll look tho

The manual clearly states the MT1A cannot take 3.7 14500. Apparently it can take the 3.2 LiFePo4. I'd say on a AA battery it throws more than a PA10 (on a AA battery) since it seems to have the same head but with an XP-G R5.
The design and UI might be the same but the electronics are likely to be different.
 
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PCC

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I know from reading the forums to ask this question first. Is this a reverse thread? Do I turn it counter clockwise to tighten? I'll try it tonight. If the whole thing seems easy for me to disassemble, I have a ton of spare boots from all my lights to try on it.

My PA-10 is reversed thread. No amount of tightening improved or even changed anything on the switch on mine, but, that's not to say that yours might respond better to this treatment.
 

PCC

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So, is it a good switch with an ill fitting boot, or a good boot with an ill fitting switch?
It's a good switch with an ill fitting boot.

Today, inspired by this thread and my never ending desire to improve on things, I made a very simple Delrin piece that sits between the rubber boot and the switch that almost completely eliminates the slop between the two. No more mushiness. It's solid and feels like it has a McClicky in it now.
 
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