Pros and Cons of L1?

Someone mentioned the pros & cons of L4, so I'd like to discuss the pros & cons of the L1 as well. I think the plus point of the L1 is the two level of brightness. Is that really useful? Is the low light dim enough, and the 'high beam' bright enough? Thanks!

Spango
The con IMHO is the size. I don't think the L1 is large, but it's large for a one cell light. The two levels of brightness are very useful and the brightness levels are fine with me. FYI the high is comparable with other one watt luxeons and the low is a little dimmer than an ARC AAA.

Although the size is large for a one cell light, when in use, the length of the light is ideal for your hand, IMHO. One could argue that you are carying a large light for 1 cell and the run time you get on high when compared to other one cells running at the same current. The big difference though is the low level. If you want some good run time, factor in the hours of run at low. I recently put a Fraen LP optic in a L1 and I think this really lets it shine! The amount of light and its placement in low mode with the Fraen is very useful and of course the LP at high is also very effective.

Another real advantage to the L1 but difficult to capitalize on is the "dumb head" configuration. If one wanted the cheapest kit containing various heads with different optics or colored LED's, the L1 is an ideal host since each head would only contain a LED and not the expensive driver.

- Don

i really like the two-stage tailcaps of the L1 and A2. both lights fit very comfortably into your hand. i think for what the L1 offers (two brightness levels in an easily accessible way), there aren't really any cons. then again i only got to handle an L1 for a few days so don't take my word for it /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif

The light is quite big, especially compared to the ARC LS, which has similar light output. Also, after a while, the low light level doesn't work anymore (because the battery voltage becomes too low) while the high level still works due to the regulation circuit.

I agree with McGizmo. I have a lot of L1's, and the size is a pro IMO. I use one as an EDC whenever I'm out and about at night, because it clips very nicely to whatever pants/shots I'm wearing w/o a holster. I also really like the 2 stage tailcap and the how it fits so well in my hand.

One con IMO is the beam tint. Off all the ones I have (which are white), the tint varies greatly. The usual seems to be an almost purple white, with the nicer tinted one having a white/blueish beam.

-Mike

Maybe someone can answer this question about the L1 for me. I keep what a call convenience lights in both doors of my car. They are in the well that you use to pull the car door closed. I am currently keeping an ARC-LS in each door. It fits like it belongs there except the handle well has more length than is needed to hold this light. I primarily use this light for quick tasks inside of the car and it only occationally leaves the car. I have a convertable and they lack dome lights. The light fits deep enough so that the handle can still be easily used to close the car. I did put an E2e in there once but it is a bit long, it will fit but It is hard to get out since it used all the space and I think its too bright for the car. I have noticed that sometimes the ARC lowdome is a bit bright for some tasks as well. Do you think the L1 might be a better handle well light with its two power settings, can it be made to come on at the low setting by default. Size is only and issure if it fits the slot well. How much shorter is an L1 compared to an E2?

JonSidneyB
I have a Z57 on my E2E and the L1 is about 1/8" shorter.

Hello, it sounds like the L1 might fit what you are looking for. You can turn the tailcap so only the low setting comes on (high is locked out but low works). I don't have an E2 (yet at least /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif), but would measurement help?

-Mike

EDIT: A new style L1 is just about 4.75 inches from bezel to tail cap when the tailcap is locked out. It is about 1 inch wide not counting the clip or hex bezel, but 1.25 at the widest point with the clip. Hope this helps.

Don,

I've noted before that the L1's dumb head is a big advantage, since you can have multiple heads without duplicating the circuitry, which would be the same for all of the heads anyway. It seems this was a design goal of the light, but Surefire hasn't allowed this potential plus to really blossom, since they don't sell the heads seperately.

I've been thinking about this for a while. It seems the holy grail of modularity would have the driver in a replacable module (like an ecan) and the emitter on a removable heatsink (like an esink) with the can and sink independent from each other. If we could get something like that into package close to the size of an MN03 we'd really have something exciting. Being able to run a single Lux-III on either 1x123 with a BB700 or on 2x123 with a DB1k by merely swapping the driver, or using the same BB750 with either a Lux-III and 1x123 or a 5-watter and 2x123 would allow one to build a *very* impressive kit without duplicating any parts other than relatively cheap heat sinks. Thermal management might be a problem here, though.

I have two SF L1, and I posted my findings in another thread about L1 some time ago.
I believe the L1 is a perfectly engineered light, and I use it a lot because of the dual beam capability.
It draws about 15 mA in low mode and about 900 mA in high mode.
The low mode is not really regulated. The brightness, in low mode, varies greatly form 3.2 Volt to 2.8 volt, and I do not like this "feature". If you use the light, let's say, for one hour on high mode, the inverter is not able to light the LED in low mode until the battery recover some voltage.
Also, the Arc LSH-P draws 450 - 500 mA and is brighter, if compared to L1 in high mode.

The L1 is "the only game in town" about two level LED lights. Notwithstanding its low efficiency in high mode, if compared to Arc, a 123 cell lasts a lot of time because I use L1 mostly in low mode.
It stays lit in low mode for days, with the brightness of a original CMG Infinity. Also, it fits perfectly my hand and it looks cool...

Regards

Anthony

All of my lights have a special purpose, I guess I really do not have a light for general use. I have to wonder which would be better as a cardoor light. The upcomming Arc L4 or a SureFire L1. I think both will fit in the space that I have for conveneince lights for the driver and front seat passenger.

Hi everyone,

Thanks for your replies! Currently, I have an Arc LSL and a CMG Reactor 3AA as far as 1 watt Luxeon lights are concerned. I was wondering how does the L1 compare to these two lights in terms of brightness and throw? Will I be missing out on anything if I don't get the L1, considering the fact that I own these two lights?

Another alternative path I consider taking for two level lights is to get the Streamlight Twintask 2L. I know that this is a rather different light, but it achieves the purpose (of having a dual brightness light) as well. Would that be a better choice? Thanks!

I'll test out the Reactor 3AA vs. my L1 tonight and let you know the outcome, provided I can find the Reactor. I haven't used it much at all since I got the L1.

-Mike

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JonSidneyB said:
Maybe someone can answer this question about the L1 for me. I keep what a call convenience lights in both doors of my car. They are in the well that you use to pull the car door closed. I am currently keeping an ARC-LS in each door. It fits like it belongs there except the handle well has more length than is needed to hold this light. I primarily use this light for quick tasks inside of the car and it only occationally leaves the car. I have a convertable and they lack dome lights. The light fits deep enough so that the handle can still be easily used to close the car. I did put an E2e in there once but it is a bit long, it will fit but It is hard to get out since it used all the space and I think its too bright for the car. I have noticed that sometimes the ARC lowdome is a bit bright for some tasks as well. Do you think the L1 might be a better handle well light with its two power settings, can it be made to come on at the low setting by default. Size is only and issure if it fits the slot well. How much shorter is an L1 compared to an E2?

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Hi Jon,

Keep in mind the low output of the L1 is pretty dim. In the car it might not be super useful. If people other than you are using it they might be somewhat confused by the dual stage lighting. I almost wonder if you would be better off with a E1 + KL1 + Z57. It would be a bit more compact, the click-on-click-off is handy, and the KL1 is a pretty useful brightness. It's fairly diffuse beam is pretty good for task lighting.

Also, how about a Minimag + Newbeam + Kroll + glass lens and some lithium AA cells? The 3 x 5mm LED makes a great task light IMO.

-john

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Spango said:
Someone mentioned the pros & cons of L4, so I'd like to discuss the pros & cons of the L1 as well. I think the plus point of the L1 is the two level of brightness. Is that really useful? Is the low light dim enough, and the 'high beam' bright enough? Thanks!

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Hi Spango,

I have been working on my EDC for quite a while and have settled on the SF M2 + SF L1. This gives me three levels of brightness and meets my requirements for bright light, good task lighting as well as long runtime light. It also allows all my lights to use the same spare batteries.

The L1 replaces an E1 + KL1. This combo basically gives me the same light as the L1 on high but in a smaller package. While I really like the E1 + KL1, I like the L1 a lot better.

It turns out that even though I have the M2 on me, 95% of the time (or more) I pull out the L1.

I use both the high mode and the low mode of the L1 fairly often. I tend to use low mode a lot indoors and for navigation and move to high mode when I'm outdoors trying to keep an eye on the dogs in the yard.

In high mode it is pretty good, but doesn't have the throw of the M2 of course. There are times I wish I had a bit more throw or a bit brighter light, but for those cases I have the M2.

All in all I find the two mode very handy. Even better would be a 5W 2x123A light with three modes, covering the same outputs I have now. I'm not holding my breath.

The only thing that could be improved is the size. While not large, I think this light could be smaller.

-john

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Mark2 said:
The light is quite big, especially compared to the ARC LS, which has similar light output. Also, after a while, the low light level doesn't work anymore (because the battery voltage becomes too low) while the high level still works due to the regulation circuit.

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Yes, this is a wacky little "feature". With a bit more use you will drop out of high and then only be able to use low.

It would be a bit better if they tuned this up a bit, but it doesn't bother me much since 1) I still have light, 2) IMO I've gotten my batteries worth at that point.

I don't think this light should be compared to the current Arc LS since the dual output is a bit part of this light. You would be better to compare the E1 + KL1 methinks.

Even when the new Arc comes out with different output modes, I still think these are going to be hard to compare. Yes, the Arc is going to be smaller and more flexible, but OTOH, the simplicity and immediacy the L1 is compelling. And of course, when you are looking at long leadtime vaporware, all bets are off. It isn't clear you would be comparing it with the L1 at that point. In any case, I suspect your use will dictate your selection.

-john

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McGizmo said:
Although the size is large for a one cell light, when in use, the length of the light is ideal for your hand, IMHO. One could argue that you are carying a large light for 1 cell and the run time you get on high when compared to other one cells running at the same current. The big difference though is the low level. If you want some good run time, factor in the hours of run at low.

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Don, I love my L1, but I think you are in a serious rationalization mode here!

Even if we give you the form factor argument, you could still afford to lose 3/4" (at least with my hands).

Also, if we give you the form factor argument, I would suggest we should get two cells for our trouble.

I think the case in point is the Firefly. All it needs is a two stage switch. It seems like you could do this and lose a full inch from the L1.

-john

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Spango said:I have an Arc LSL and a CMG Reactor 3AA
...
Will I be missing out on anything if I don't get the L1, considering the fact that I own these two lights?


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It depends on what you want from the light. On high mode, they are going to be similar. If you don't have a yearning for a low output or long runtime light perhaps you don't need the L1. OTOH, the inverse also applies.

-john

Does the L1 comes with a high dome or low dome emitter? Also, if I need a dual level light, is the L1 recommended, or would I be better off with the Streamlight Twintask 2L? Thanks!