Is Quark 123 tactical lego-able with Quark AA pro?

adhesivehandle

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Is Quark 123 tactical lego-able with Quark AA pro? I am kind of unsure about the "tactical" UI concept and what exactly makes the light programmable? Is the chip in the emitter head or is it in the tailcap? And will there be a problem lego'ing between these two lights?
 

Brasso

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The software is in the head. You can switch tailcaps though.

The tactical is programmable because you have to set what the level will be for either of the two modes. Tight or loose, and it will memorize it. You can't just switch through them like the standard UI without repgrogramming it. It's not hard to program it though and takes less than minute to do.

Both are good depending on what the inteded use is.
 

reppans

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You are really only legoing batt tubes and clickies - a pro is a pro and tac is tac. But it might be worth knowing that the reverse clicky works well with both, but the forward clicky does not work so well with the pro. I know some people like it, but there is a reason you generally only see reverse clickies on multimodes.
 

adhesivehandle

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You are really only legoing batt tubes and clickies - a pro is a pro and tac is tac. But it might be worth knowing that the reverse clicky works well with both, but the forward clicky does not work so well with the pro. I know some people like it, but there is a reason you generally only see reverse clickies on multimodes.

I've read that the Quark 2AA and Quark 123-2 Turbo isn't "swappable" because the turbo head is high voltage and the Quark 2AA is low voltage. Is this true?, I really like the flood of Quark 2AA XML and the throw of Quark 123-2 Turbo and am planning on purchasing these two to swap around the tubes so I have more battery options and functionality.
 

weez82

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I've read that the Quark 2AA and Quark 123-2 Turbo isn't "swappable" because the turbo head is high voltage and the Quark 2AA is low voltage. Is this true?, I really like the flood of Quark 2AA XML and the throw of Quark 123-2 Turbo and am planning on purchasing these two to swap around the tubes so I have more battery options and functionality.

Quark AA-2 is rated at 0.9v-4.2v, Turbo 123-2 is rated at 3.0v-9.0v. So you just need to use the correct batteries. Ex: Turbo 123-2 head wont run on AA's, you would need to run it on 14500's if using the AA or AA-2 body. And the AA-2 head cant run on 2x cr123a. You would need to run it on one cr123a or rcr123a or 17670. Just make sure you're using the correct batteries for the heads.
 

adhesivehandle

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Quark AA-2 is rated at 0.9v-4.2v, Turbo 123-2 is rated at 3.0v-9.0v. So you just need to use the correct batteries. Ex: Turbo 123-2 head wont run on AA's, you would need to run it on 14500's if using the AA or AA-2 body. And the AA-2 head cant run on 2x cr123a. You would need to run it on one cr123a or rcr123a or 17670. Just make sure you're using the correct batteries for the heads.

thanks! I will keep that in mind.
 

oKtosiTe

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You are really only legoing batt tubes and clickies - a pro is a pro and tac is tac. But it might be worth knowing that the reverse clicky works well with both, but the forward clicky does not work so well with the pro. I know some people like it, but there is a reason you generally only see reverse clickies on multimodes.

Agreed. Personally I love having a forward clicky on my "pro" (bought it as a Quark "X" AA² "regular"), but I would imagine putting a reverse clicky on a tactical Quark would have the lack of momentary as its main drawback, versus the ability to tailstand.
 
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oKtosiTe

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Quark AA-2 is rated at 0.9v-4.2v, Turbo 123-2 is rated at 3.0v-9.0v. So you just need to use the correct batteries. Ex: Turbo 123-2 head wont run on AA's, you would need to run it on 14500's if using the AA or AA-2 body. And the AA-2 head cant run on 2x cr123a. You would need to run it on one cr123a or rcr123a or 17670. Just make sure you're using the correct batteries for the heads.

To add to that: To my knowledge only heads designed for 2x CR123a are of the "high voltage" variety. All other heads are of the "low voltage" variety and should be safe to swap.
(I will not be liable for any :poof:ed heads!)
 
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