Olight SR95 UT Under The knife

I bought a SR95 UT with the intent to mod it into a Jumbo Elephant, decided against & sold it.
As it turned out, the light went DOA at buyer & thus end back at my hands, this must be fate, as this time, there is no reason for me not to put it under the knife.

So here we go:

Size reference vs. the baby Elephant (Mag 1D size)


Bezel removed, the reflector is screwed in. To un screw, there are two slots on the edge, so I made a SR95 UR reflector removal tool:


Led & heat sink (Brass) view with the reflector removed:


Remove the 3 screws from under the neck:


View of Driver: There are two thin wires connecting the momentary switch to the driver, the pos. wire appears to have broken. I could re-connect it & fix the light, however, I felt that the fate of this light is to be destined for Jumbo Elephant destiny, so I went ahead with driver removal instead of fix & restore.


Remove the 4 screws from heat sink & lift it up, you can see the thin wire down in the tube (broken)


Driver & led/heat sink removed. You can see one thin wire connecting to switch ( the other is broken)


Close up view of the driver. The driver is fine, just had the momentary switch solder joint broke off.
It'll be a good driver for building a spot light, as it's quite large. I want to modify the light to have a smaller neck, so this driver will not be re-used.

There appears to be two solder point for led +, the OEM connection used the top one of the two next to the + mark that I marked.


The other side has the led "-" connection at the lower left corner:



Bottom of the PCB, it's copper. This appears to be common for Light SR51 to 91 to 95 series, very nice
ceramic PCB with copper under. Thermo pas missed 1/4 of the PCB. They could have done a little better.


I cut the head off from the neck, as I am going to mount smaller neck & 3x18650 Elephant body. I don't have everything figured out yet, but one thing for sure, I am now on the road of no return...

sickkkkkkkkkk!

Nice wiss scissors by the way You are clearly a man of good taste

Mate, you're far braver than most!

10 points for you!

Props to you!

I would be too worried to put that light under the knife.

Thanks guys. One more photo of the poor decapitated SR95 UT:
It should get better starting from here

So...

Any plans for the body?

Gunner12 said:

So...

Any plans for the body?

Click to expand...

It'll be an Elephant UT, so it'll run on those contact 3x18650 format, body will look similar to some of those Elephants I made recently. I've ordered a Dewitctel variable driver modified to 10A, hope to surpass the OEM throw but in a much more compact form & combine that with a 10K pod for ramping, finish up with a special skull knob that looks like my CPF avitar...

I see, didn't know 3 18650 batteries fit into the body.

That skull knob idea sounds really cool.

I made a spacer again using mag D head so that I can put another Elephant body on it,
this is not the body but I'll make another one just like it, so this is the finished look, except the knob.

Nice work!!

The driver is on delay, as De witctel went one vacation

The only progress I could make is some cosmatic mod to make the skull knob.

Standard black knob on left, Q parts Skull knob on right. The stock skull knob is for guitar use, it's too big. Also, I wanted black alu body, the skull know is too big & shiny, It felt out of place.


What I did is grind down the Q parts knob (made of brass) to the skull section & trans locate that into the the black alu knob body.


Another picture, showing the light next to TN31, it's actually not that much bigger than TN31 but the hour glass figure makes it easier to hold and much more stylish IMHO.

looking good! you should make the eyes of that skull light up red :devil:

That'll be cool, need tiny 1x2mm red trits thou

I have been waiting for someone to fully utilize the emitter in the SR95UT, but it seems like you are the only one with the balls to do it. I don't have the balls to buy one as my wife would sever them afterward, but I look forward to seeing your results. I don't mind how big the light was stock, but this does seem like it would make it more useable. Do you have a manual lathe?

Thanks. I don't have a lathe, I use table saw to cut & grind.

Finally, the 10 Amp adjustable driver arrived.


Family photo, size compare to TN31:

Looking good

Thanks, making progress but slow as a snail.

Drilled a hole & installed the pod. Spent half a day making the heat sink for driver, I made it hollow to hide the driver inside so it won't take up extra room:


The only thing left to do is to solder the wirings, should be able to finish it later today after the potting dry up.
This better be working....

wow... that will be one sick light. :devil:

U got some $$$ in that baby nice work

Interhead said:

wow... that will be one sick light. :devil:

Click to expand...

Thanks!

las3r said:

U got some $$$ in that baby

nice work

Click to expand...

Thanks! Yes, I was going all out trying to beat FF3 in package as small as possible, cost is super high, I try not to think about it.


Finally, It's all Done!

I rushed into my kitchen & did a quick 10 meter lux, 228,100 lux @ 1 meter
I was showing off to my wife & she loved it, she loves skulls & was blown away by the bad *** look & super brightness & skull knob ramping UI, She nick name it Mr. Meyham



Snapped a few photos while it was on the way to finishing.
The CBT 90 looks like direct solder to copper under ceramic PCB, huge surface area for heat transfer


Great reflector but glass lens is nor AR, which means I could get extra 20K lux (9%) if I can find a AR lens 82mmx3mm.


Just completed beam shots for the battle, posting beam shots in another thread soon, here is a sneak preview of the warriors:



Beam shots will be up soon in a new thread: Battle in the woods III...