This should be easy, but there are SO MANY HEADLAMPS!

After spending a few hours searching, I've decided to ask for advice on a headlamp purchase for a friend. He'll be using it in and around cars, mostly during the day. So there is some competition with daylight. As someone wise in another thread pointed out, if you're in the dark parts of a brightly lit area, you need a bright light since your eyes are adjusted to the surrounding light level.

Specifics he's looking for:

1. The headband must have a strap across the top of the head. He says "ring" headbands give him a headache after an hour or so.
2. Presumably a flood beam is the way to go for this application.
3. Needs to run from rechargeable batteries; eneelops are the target whether it be AA or AAA.
4. Under $50. Around $40 would be perfect.
5. Battery pack on the front. He'll be laying on his back some so a rear mounted pack won't work.
6. Two or more modes would probably be a good idea due to various lighting conditions. There seem to be many 3 mode lamps, so maybe one of those.

Of the ones I've looked at, I very much liked the Spark ST-5 series. They look super well built and just about perfect. They just cost more than he's willing to spend. The Fenix HL30 looks about right, but it's big and cheesy looking. I've also read some reviews that said it was flimsy and some other negative comments.

Enough of me. Let's hear from you guys. Thanks for any suggestions.

Brian.

I've seen loads of "help me find" requests, where the person has very specific needs and desires, and then they're undermined by an unrealistic small budget. I think Wal-mart shopping gets people accustomed to that price point. If the budget were $75 you'd have plenty of options.

You're right Brian. The Spark would be great. Well worth the extra coin. If your friend is making money with the light, tell him it takes money to make money.

This flashlight disease is horrible. Now that I've been researching a headlamp for my friend, *I* want one.

The Spark ST5-190NW seems about perfect to me. Someone tell me a good reason I should consider a Zebralight over the ST5. I'd mostly be using the light for work at 6 feet and under. Think tasks like changing a car tire in the dark, or working under a kitchen cabinet; things like that.

I'm concerned about head fatigue with the ZL headlamps since they don't have the strap across the top of the head, thus relying upon squeeze pressure around the skull. Also, the UI seems way overly complex. ...and this is coming from someone that carried an HDS U60 for many years.

Thanks,

Brian.

Both Spark and Zebra are great choices. If you are working at ranges <6 ft, you will be best served by a flood, so you don't have to twist your head as much to place the light, and so you don't have the "retina hotspot" problem (which more or less blinds you to the surrounding area). If you get an ST5 you can remove the reflector or use a diffuser. But it is actually Spark's SD series that's intended for flood or closeup work. I use my SD52 lots, and it has a screw-in bezel that can convert it to spot/spill if I need it to throw instead of flood.

Your "squeeze pressure" hypothesis is a nonissue for a single-cell AA light. The lights are mere ounces. If you can wear a ball cap you can wear a 1xAA headlamp, feels the same to me comfortwise. The overhead strap becomes important for larger lights. 18650 could go either way. I use a top strap with my 2xAA SD52 on a helmet, not for comfort obviously, but for a more rigid placement.

Most people like the ZL (and Spark) UI. Again, I think your concerns are exaggerated here. On a ZL, 95% of the time, you'll either press quickly to get to high, or press and hold to start at low and ramp up.

The only reason you'd consider a ZL over a Spark (IMO) is that Spark has no offerings in the 1AA floody segment (unless you mod an ST), and from your descriptions, that's probably the segment you'd find most useful, since you'll be doing close work and want a lightweight headlamp.

The other reason is if you're a high-CRI junkie. Spark offers neutrals, but no high-CRI. Whereas ZL offers high-CRI in two different tints (neutral and warm), which is an industry exclusive I think.

If you're thinking through a new headlamp, check the first link in my sig file, "Consider before HL purchase."

Hmm, interesting points. The ST5 comes with a frosted lens that I intended to try out to see if I liked the flood type beam it provided. I guess I'm a little torn because I've never owned a headlamp before. So, while I think I know what I'll use it for, I'm also looking for a little flexibility in case I use it for more. I *think* I'll only be using it fairly close, but who knows? I pretty much always carry a handheld light so I guess I've got throw there if I need it and I *could* get a pure flood HL... I'm not sure I'm comfortable doing that just yet.

I don't have any high CRI lights. Getting a neutral tint HL is an experiment to see if I like the colors it provides. I'd also like to try a high CRI light.

Thanks for the thoughts.

Brian.

The SD series + the extra reflector was my initial thought, too (except for price). They also have an attachment magnet which may be handy in car repair. Hkequipment has the AA models on sale.

blgentry said:

I guess I'm a little torn because I've never owned a headlamp before. So, while I think I know what I'll use it for, I'm also looking for a little flexibility in case I use it for more. I *think* I'll only be using it fairly close, but who knows? I pretty much always carry a handheld light so I guess I've got throw there if I need it and I *could* get a pure flood HL... I'm not sure I'm comfortable doing that just yet..

Click to expand...

The standard "dynamic duo" is a throwy handheld and a floody headlamp. (Much less use for floody handhelds and throwy headlamps, altho sometimes that's just the ticket.) The ST (with/without reflector, with/without diffuser) would give you options, definitely. But if it were me I'd take Esko's advice and grab an on-sale SD, as the purpose-built flood is so right for close and midrange work.

Ok, let's go with me being sold on a floody head lamp. I'm trying to keep the budget low-ish. I.E., I was fairly comfortable with the $70ish price of the Zebra Light 51XX series and the Spark ST5. The SD takes it to another price point especially with the add on reflector and magnetic attachment. Plus it's heavier.

For a floody neutral (or warm) and optionally high CRI light from either of these brands, or another high quality one, which are the key models? ZL 501 series? Or 51 series with the F in the model number?

I'd really enjoy a recommendation for equivalent lights from each company. Maybe I can live with that ZebraLight interface after all.

Thanks for the help guys. This really is a good learning experience.

Brian.

ZL gives you lots of options as separate HLs. H51 is spot/spill, H51F is a sort of "directional flood," (compromise between H51 and H502), and the H502 is full flood. These come in various tints. ZL gives you no beam conversion options. They want you to buy one of each. I own H502, which is great for work. Trail hikers like the H51F, I've noticed; they need their beam a little more throwy. I suspect the H51 is the least popular, here at CPF, since enthusiasts mostly agree that headlamps are more useful wide than narrow...unless you NEED a spot, of course, like search and rescue, or moving fast (biking, skiing), etc. ZL makes you choose where (how close) you need your light, or be willing to compromise. Whereas Sparks, you can modify them to taste a little easier, as noted above. Remember you CAN modify an ST to flood if you wish.

It may be easiest to jump in with any light on your short list (all good options), and rebuy when you get a little more precise with your actual usage.

For the record, I was a little hesitant before buying a high CRI all-flood headlamp (the ZL H502d I currently use) as I was slightly afraid the beam would be dimmer and yellower than I would like, but funnily enough that wasn't the case. I basically never have to use the high brightness levels—meds have turned out to be plenty sufficient; the beam itself has no color to speak of either, and the surfaces it illuminates retain their natural color. And I get to enjoy the size and efficiency that initially sold me on ZebraLight, too. For me it was a win/win/win. Flood + high CRI is the perfect combination for close-up illumination; you'll be surprised to find that you don't actually need more than ~70 lumens for the vast majority of tasks since the beam is so easy on the eyes and renders colors so well.

One thing with flood lights that you need to know, though, is that most people who end up in your 120-degree cone of illumination are about to be annoyed, whereas with spot/spill lights they'll only be annoyed a little if they're caught up in the spill beam (and a lot if you point the hotspot directly at them).

moozooh said:

For the record, I was a little hesitant before buying a high CRI all-flood headlamp (the ZL H502d I currently use) as I was slightly afraid the beam would be dimmer and yellower than I would like, but funnily enough that wasn't the case.

Click to expand...

Zebralight has too many models. It's more than a little confusing. I can't even seem to figure out their "official" web site so I can get specs straight from the manufacturer. Going based on what looks like a US retailer using their name, leaves me wondering what's the difference between a 502d and a 502c?

The 502d should be "daylight" color temp right? ...and the 502c should be "high CRI". But looking at the specs I get:

502d: 5000k, 85CRI, 170L
502c: 4000k, 85CRI, 142L

So they both have the same color rendering index? I.E. they both allow one to discern colors with equal "contrast"? The color perception should be different because the "c" model is more yellow. That makes me inclined towards the "d" model, as it will be closer to daylight color (which is 6500k as I understand it) so colors will be more natural and just as defined (because it's 85 CRI).

Am I anywhere close to the truth here?

Thanks,

Brian.

Bolster said:

Remember you CAN modify an ST to flood if you wish.

Click to expand...

I kinda *had* forgotten that actually! I just looked up a thread showing an ST6 with reflector removed and it made a really consistent 100 degree beam. The ZL 502 are supposed to be 120 degrees, so just a bit wider. Probably not much of a difference in practice.

Hmmm.... The ST5-190NW is just about the same brightness, just about the same floody coverage angle as the ZL 502d... But the 502d has a high CRI. I don't know the CRI on the ST5 in NW. I wonder how much of a visual difference there is in the colors. One thing this light will be used for is identifying car wiring colors. Discerning light blue from light green is sort of important. So high CRI should help with that I hope.

I was leaning towards the 502d, but I'm not totally sold. If the color rendering on the ST5 (NW) is very close, then it makes more sense as it has more options as it can be a spot or a flood.

For owners of either or both, is there anything I'm missing? What would you choose?

Brian.

blgentry said:

The 502d should be "daylight" color temp right? ...and the 502c should be "high CRI". But looking at the specs I get:

502d: 5000k, 85CRI, 170L
502c: 4000k, 85CRI, 142L

So they both have the same color rendering index? I.E. they both allow one to discern colors with equal "contrast"?

Click to expand...

Yes, they're both the high CRI versions of H502, and so both have the same color rendering capability. While the LED used in the 'c' version has been around in ZL lights for a while, the 'd' was used for the first time in this light, and I hope it stays for good.

blgentry said:

The color perception should be different because the "c" model is more yellow. That makes me inclined towards the "d" model, as it will be closer to daylight color (which is 6500k as I understand it) so colors will be more natural and just as defined (because it's 85 CRI).

Am I anywhere close to the truth here?

Click to expand...

I think it'll be easier if I just link to this video. The most interesting part starts at around 16:00. While the 'c' version is indeed yellower, it still maintains the proper color contrast across the spectrum and is even easier on the eyes than the 'd'. Some folks here actually prefer the warmer tint; I just found the 'd' to be the better balance between softness and brightness.

blgentry said:

What would you choose?.

Click to expand...

Now that you mention electrical wiring, high-CRI would go to the top of my list. Either the 'c' (which I chose) if you like a warmer tint, or the 'd' if you like a more neutral tint. (I chose 'c' because I find the warmer tint comforting when I'm stuck in a narrow crawlspace or attic.) Like Mooz, I seldom ever use mine at top level. The mid-levels are most useful, I find. So the top lumen count is not very important, for work at the end of your arm.

If you had said: riding a bike, search and rescue, or kayaking, I'd have said the ST. If you must have both throw and flood, ST again. If primarily for work, or identifying colors, then a CRI ZL.

Remember the ZL will sit closer to your head and get knocked about less in tight quarters than the ST.

We're splitting hairs though. I'm certain you'd be happy with either, they're both great lights. You've done a good job of narrowing the field to a few top lights, all of which are fantastic.

I'm not sure if I like warm tinted lights or not. I've never carried one. But I have noticed the lack of color rendition with the LED lights I've used and carried for the past 8 or 9 years. I've just about completely decided to go with the Zebralight and am heavily leaning towards the H502C. I'm not sure if I'll like the warm tint, but I think I'd like to try it to experience the other side of things. Plus it's high CRI.

The video linked above from pelahale wasn't conclusive for me. I could easily see the difference between C and D, but I'm not sure which looked better. Thanks for the link BTW, because I found that video before, but I was unwilling to watch it for 20 minutes to see if it had any good content. Telling me to go to the 16 minute mark helped a lot. That guy seems smart and he's actually into a lot of things that I am, but he's more than a little long winded.

Anyway, I'm giving myself until Sunday to decide then I'm ordering either the H502C (probably), H502D, or the Spark ST5-190NW. Feel free to vote.

Brian.

Don't forget that the difference in color temps is much more pronounced on camera since its sensor can't adapt to them the same way our eyes do—which is why high-power incandescent lights don't exactly look as sickly yellow as they appear on photographs, nor 6300 K lights appear distinctly green or blue. We'll see most of them as white, more or less; the main difference will be in the perception of depth and certain colors (especially browns, greens, reds). The increase in depth perception is not an illusion, but a result of the improved ability to see the color components of shades and halftones.

Mooz makes a good point. Photos do exaggerate the differences. I don't think you can go wrong with either tint in high CRI. I chose the H502c because I often work alone in nasty places, and I find the warmer tint psychologically comforting. Seldom do I ever use the light on High for work. Usually the mid ranges are best.

The Spark 'neutral' is a neutral-neutral, feels to the cool side for me (I have SD52). I much prefer the H502c to the SD52 beam, but the SD52 is helmet mounted so it sees that sort of work. I would expect the Spark's neutral and the H502d to be sort of similar. Someone speak up if I'm wrong, please.

This may come down to availability. Going Gear apparently doesn't carry Zebra Light any more and are out of stock of all H502x lights. Zebralight themselves is now sold out of the H502c, but still has the H502d. So it may be down to H502d or Spark ST5. I'm *just* about sold on the H502d.

Having never used a high CRI or very warm light, I'm not sure what I want. <shrug>

Brian.

blgentry said:

Ok, let's go with me being sold on a floody head lamp. I'm trying to keep the budget low-ish. I.E., I was fairly comfortable with the $70ish price of the Zebra Light 51XX series and the Spark ST5. The SD takes it to another price point especially with the add on reflector and magnetic attachment. Plus it's heavier.

Click to expand...

I can see that you didn't bother checking my advice. $2-$5 is not much of a difference.

High cri lights are best for task where you need to distinguish different color shades. However, when comparing a 70cri and 85cri lights the difference is rather subtle. You might need to see it yourself. You mentioned electrical wiring. Do you need to solder with the light and judge the quality of the solder points? A high cri neutral white might be useful. Do you only need to distinguish different wires from each other? Buy what ever feels the best (I'd still suggest something neutral).

@Esko: I looked at the site you mentioned. It's when you add all the accessories that it gets more and more expensive. If I was really happy about the size and shape of the SD series, I'd probably be more interested. As it is, I'm not super excited about them and I'm not comfortable ordering product from Hong Kong or really anywhere else outside of the US. Just a lack of experience on my part, plus me being anxious to get product quickly once I order it.

Due ZebraLight themselves being out of the H502 series, as well as nearly every other distributor I found, I ended up getting the Spark ST5-190NW.

I've only had it for a few days, but I'm REALLY liking it so far. I was kind of expecting to want to use the diffuser, or maybe even pull out the reflector, but the beam is VERY wide and floody as is. I haven't used it for super close (less than 2 feet) work yet, but I think it's going to work great for even up close stuff without needing to pull out the reflector.

It throws a tiny little bit as is. I'd say it lights objects 50 feet away pretty well on high or super.

The modes are spaced VERY well. Very even level spacing making them useful. Only super is disappointingly spaced. I mean you can only do so much with one AA, so it's no big deal, but the visual difference between the highest normal level and super (110 versus 190) is small.

The headband is quite comfortable so far. The third strap keeps the light from being front heavy and allows you to use less overall tension. I tried removing the third strap and it works well without it, though you need to make the band tighter.

I almost forgot to mention how small and beautifully constructed this thing is! Very, very compact and impressively built. Confidence inspiring in fact.

I think I'm going to really like this overall. I just hope it doesn't lead me to buying more headlamps. Flashlights are bad enough!

Brian.