Gun light?

Mrhanky5555

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Hello to all. I'm glad to be part of a new forum (for me). Generally got interested in flashlights while shopping for new lights for 3 of my guns. After a few but fancy reviews I figured this would be the best place for recommendations. I'm interested in th foursevens quorke turbo. Any thoughts or ideas on my choice or better options for the same price would be great. Thanks.
 

snakyjake

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I would consider the following lights:

Eagletac G25C2 MK2. I like the diffuser option simple UI, control output up/down by a control ring. I like this option best for weapon mounted light on a rifle.

Klarus XT11. Like this best for handheld with the unique UI. Don't really like cycling through different outputs, and don't really like too many buttons at the same location. Under stress, I'd have to make sure I'm pressing the right button. For muscle memory, I would need to make sure my hand and fingers are positioned in the same place to remember which button is which. If I need to hurry up and grab my light, I don't want to "feel" for the right button to push. Plus I need to be able to swap hands. This is why I'm considering the Surefire tactical lights; big button, simple interface, some are 500 lumens.

Jake
 
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TEEJ

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I like the Klarus XT11 too for a weapon light. Its UI is about the best for this purpose, the cell chamber is double sprung to absorb recoil forces, and the remote pressure switch even lets you change the brightness or hit the strobe if you wanted to...or you just hit the big button to turn it on/off w/o messing with anything else.

I love how I can throw the damn light against a wall or off a cliff, and it will still be lit when I go to pick it back up...its a tough SOB. :D

Mine measured 850 lumens on turbo - using two RCR123's. It puts out more like 600 lumens with a single 18650, and between the two ranges with CR123's (It can take three different cell types...very flexible).

Its a tactical UI, so it only comes on in HIGH, and has a forward clicky so you can also do a soft press to get momentary on/off, etc.

The strong floody beam is great for shooting, especially if the target is moving, as the large pattern keeps the target in the light/sights very easily.

I tried a Surefire Fury (500 lumens) but hated the way the brightness changed every time I hit the switch...very annoying...I much prefer a simple and reliable on/off on a weapon light.

Depending on the range you want to hit targets at...different lights make sense. For example, the XT11 is good to about 150 yards...but the floody beam is not great out much beyond that. Some lights have a more focused beam that throws further out...but, you have a smaller patch of light to try to keep the target within for sighting, etc. If your targets are in the XT11's range, that would be my recommendation. If you need to hit targets out further...I'd consider some of the other lights out there.
 

Overclocker

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I like the Klarus XT11 too for a weapon light. Its UI is about the best for this purpose, the cell chamber is double sprung to absorb recoil forces, and the remote pressure switch even lets you change the brightness or hit the strobe if you wanted to...or you just hit the big button to turn it on/off w/o messing with anything else.

I love how I can throw the damn light against a wall or off a cliff, and it will still be lit when I go to pick it back up...its a tough SOB. :D

Mine measured 850 lumens on turbo - using two RCR123's. It puts out more like 600 lumens with a single 18650, and between the two ranges with CR123's (It can take three different cell types...very flexible).

Its a tactical UI, so it only comes on in HIGH, and has a forward clicky so you can also do a soft press to get momentary on/off, etc.

The strong floody beam is great for shooting, especially if the target is moving, as the large pattern keeps the target in the light/sights very easily.

I tried a Surefire Fury (500 lumens) but hated the way the brightness changed every time I hit the switch...very annoying...I much prefer a simple and reliable on/off on a weapon light.

Depending on the range you want to hit targets at...different lights make sense. For example, the XT11 is good to about 150 yards...but the floody beam is not great out much beyond that. Some lights have a more focused beam that throws further out...but, you have a smaller patch of light to try to keep the target within for sighting, etc. If your targets are in the XT11's range, that would be my recommendation. If you need to hit targets out further...I'd consider some of the other lights out there.

Nope actually double sprung aka "floating" batteries create a hammering effect during recoil. Usually driving into the positive contact board which contains lots of electronics on the other side. Needless to say not good

What u want is a maelstrom g5 type battery compartment
 

TEEJ

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LOL

Depending on the tension, etc...I guess an M60 vs a pump shotgun vs an AR, and so forth...would mean some worked better than others. If the spring was not able to damp oscillations, sure, I could see the hammering effect happen....but at least on the XT11 its not had any trouble with the thousands of rounds its taken so far at least. Zero evidence of cell contact with the circuitry.

:D
 

snakyjake

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Not sure I'd be using rechargeable lithiums. The protection circuit has a cutoff, leaving you without any light. Non-protected cells leave you vulnerable to explosions.
 

cland72

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What is your budget? Do you have any requirements/specs in mind?

Without knowing this, in my opinion the three best choices for reliable weapon lights are:
Streamlight TLR-1
Surefire X300
Surefire 6P with a Malkoff M61 drop in
 

Go big

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I put a streamlight TLR-1 on a glock 17 pistol. It works really well for any shot I'd take with that weapon, good combination of spot to flood. Not so bright you kill your own vision if you sweep it across a close by reflective surface as you scan a room.

i just bought a MC-G33 http://site.gregmcgeeengineering.com/MC-G33.html
1000 lumens, what a beast! I'm already looking for a mount to go on my AR-15 because this thing is perfect for picking up targets far far away. I will carry it in my pocket daily but intend to find a mount that will let me attach it with ease to the AR.
 

Overclocker

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LOL

Depending on the tension, etc...I guess an M60 vs a pump shotgun vs an AR, and so forth...would mean some worked better than others. If the spring was not able to damp oscillations, sure, I could see the hammering effect happen....but at least on the XT11 its not had any trouble with the thousands of rounds its taken so far at least. Zero evidence of cell contact with the circuitry.

:D


physics, dude. you really think that little spring would absorb the mass of an 18650 during shotgun recoil? nope it would bottom out and hammer the circuit board
 

TMedina

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Dec 17, 2006
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Budget and type of weapons would be helpful.

I have absolutely no confidence in multi-mode lights on firearms. Opinions will vary wildly, of course, but I will always stick to a single mode light. Strictly in my opinion, a weapon light is a dedicated tool and should never be used for anything else.

If I had to mount a light on a weapon, on a budget, I'd opt for a Solarforce host with a twisty tailcap and a Malkoff drop-in.

A Solarforce clone will fit the light mounts designed for Surefire 6P lights, so you will have plenty of flexibility to customize your configuration. The CR123s are pricey, initially, but unless you plan on a lot of low-light/night shooting, a fresh set of primaries will last you for years.
 

snakyjake

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You need something similar to Surefire:
http://www.surefire.com/FlashlightTechnology4

For exceptionally hard-recoiling weapons such as 12-gauge shotguns and larger caliber rifles, where batteries may be damaged by slamming together, SureFire recommends our special shock-resistant battery sticks. These consist of two, three, or four batteries assembled inside a heat-shrunk polymer sleeve, with each battery physically separated from the others by a load-bearing fiber washer, but electrically connected by a welded metal conductor. For low-recoiling weapons, such as 5.56mm self-loading rifles, standard SureFire SF123 batteries function perfectly.
 

madecov

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Lots of good advice.
Different firearms have different requirements. I have seen Officers run various lights on AR-15 platform guns and most of the imported lights have no problem with this. Shotguns can be destructive on lights and require a different level of durability. 7.62 (308) guns also require a more robust light.

I am currently running a Klarus XT-10 on my patrol carbine but I think that may change soon.
 

HaileStorm

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My vote goes to either the xt11 or the armytek predator. Both are very solid weapon lights.
 

Monocrom

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A weapon-light is too important to mess around with. Your best bet is to get a dedicated one specifically designed for that purpose and proven to actually work as designed. I'd leave off every new model, and go for one of the older weapon-light designs from either SureFire or Streamlight.
 

Keisari

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First I apologize for necroing this ancient thread, but it kind of fits my project.

Then, lets get down to business. My concept is a pump-action shotgun with minimalistic streamlined design, with a regular synthetic semi-pistol stock and all. No pistol grips, heat shield and stuff. No accessories(possibly velcro for optional receiver side shell holder), no sling. The long barrel 1300 has a 4+1 short magazine tube, and the light is to be as short as possible while providing enough light for short distance use. Why? The barrel is to be trimmed to about 17" or slightly longer if necessary(no panic, none of this is being done in the U.S.). The light will be placed under the barrel and in front of the magazine tube, so the gun will have no unnecessary bulges and extensions and its external dimensions will be very close to the 18" 8+1 Winchester Defender. That's how I think a shotgun should be like, unless it's operated by a SWAT team member.

The power source format is CR123A and 18350 compatible.

My current plan is to use the Convoy S2 short "18350 version" as a host. It's compatible with the mentioned cell types. The fluorescent front ring will be removed as undesirable in this application. Probably with the XM-L2 LED.

For the driver, I'm going to use a generic 1,4 A 7135 based single mode PCB. This will allow for nearly half an hour of use with an IMR cell. 2,8 amp driver would be overkill both because of current drain and too much sudden, unnecessary bright light in darkness. I however think the light should be somewhat blinding(disorienting at least) to someone standing on the customer side, so significantly less than that might no be enough.

Light will only be operated by a remote pressure switch. For such, I will pick the best one out of what I already have and the soon-to-arrive generic versions and wire it inside the S2 tailcap.

My battery options are going to be primarily 18350 AW IMR, and secondarily CR123A lithium single-use. Because this is sort of mission critical, protected batteries are unsuitable.

There is also a firearms specific problem, as I think lights and their remote switches are not perfectly suitable for pump action, but IMO pump action is otherwise preferred. This will be extensively tested to see how it suits me. It would be so much easier if my choice was O/U or automatic, but pump action is how I learned this stuff, so that's my choice for use in a potential emergency situation.
Shotguns can be destructive on lights and require a different level of durability. 7.62 (308) guns also require a more robust light.
That's important. I have already pretty much figured out my concept, but this is an interesting subject to discuss anyway. What technical details and solutions are the most important when doing a DIY or customised build for a high recoil weapon light?

Careful tightening and thread locking, high quality soldering, good thermal connection etc. Maybe epoxying components to the PCB?
A weapon-light is too important to mess around with. Your best bet is to get a dedicated one specifically designed for that purpose and proven to actually work as designed. I'd leave off every new model, and go for one of the older weapon-light designs from either SureFire or Streamlight.

That's what I would give as advice to anybody asking. Just as I would refer anyone to see a doctor when asking a very basic medical question that I could answer myself, but wouldn't

However, I tend to trust my own design and work even more than those respected brands. Even more so, because as a (currently) civilian I'm not dealing with law enforcement limitations and liabilities. The aim here is to make something that will be exhaustively tested in recreational shooting and then adopted as an accessory to a home defense weapon. Another factor is that to my knowledge no solution exists that would satisfy my specification.

This is what I'm planning at the moment. I have also considered(and for now, abandoned) the idea of mounting on the front grip and even omitting the remote switch. The preferred form and function is because this is not purely home defense specific, even if that is the gun's primary purpose. My shotgun with light must fit in a scabbard as well as an ordinary, unaccessorized version would fit, which pretty much rules out any rail attachment systems etc. A simple clamp will be used to tie the flashlight tube to the barrel.
 
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